[64nailhead]

Bare with me this is my first post. I have a stock 350 that I want to build. We got it from a family member who has multiple sitting in his shed. But we want to run the comp magnum 292 cam in it. We are going to match it with 64cc 200cc Heads. On top of that we are going to run a performer rpm intake with 650cc Edelbrock carb. We will also be running a 3000 stall with 4.10 posi.
My question is will this setup work well or end up being a dog? I am hoping 400hp. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The carb will not get it done - need larger. A better intake wouldn't hurt either Buzz's recommendation is a winner. Your 64cc 200cc heads ought to be aluminum and flow more than 250 cfm at .550 lift and you'll need darn near 11:1 compression to sneak by on pump gas. If the heads aren't aluminum, then you'll need to drop the compression.

 

[64nailhead]

The engine will be going into a 83 c10. It has 700r4 transmission with a shift kit. The build is going to be for drag racing and maybe some trips to the drift pit.

For drag racing I would like to run around high 12 low 13s. Not planning on a 10sec truck. The truck weighs 4000lbs currently. I will be gutting bed and some other misc items to cut it to 3500 eventually.

Paradox alert - a 12-13 sec truck is not going to drift anywhere.

You need more power x 2 at a minimum. Having a plan to later add a supercharger or turbo is GREAT one. And most all of us will understand not having the funds to build a 700-900 HP motor right out of the gate.

As mentioned, build the motor NA to handle the boost down the road. That means forged slugs, decent aftermarket rods, forged crank, aluminum heads, and keep the compression in the 9:1 area. You can get by with more compression NA, but the forced induction setup will be much easier tune (larger tuning window) at 8.5-9:1. You should plan on a cam change when the forced induction comes along.

And no need to go any smaller than a 383.

 

[64nailhead]

I’ve been doing some research. And it seems I could have decent build with a XE274 cam and 64cc chamber 180cc heads. Along with a 2500 stall and 4.10 gears.
Just wondering what you guys think about this. Just to get me going for now. Then once I go forced induction I can swap to bigger heads to lower my compression.

Here's the problem with this plan IMO. FT hydro cam implies VERY light valve spring pressures - it's the only way one will live without grinding up lobes. Forced induction to any degree beyond 5-7 psi implies that the spring pressures need to be increased inorder to maintain valve control both over the nose and on the seat due to there is additional pressure (boost) trying to keep the valve open. All of this leads to a cam and spring swap will be needed when the forced induction comes along.

You are at the point now where you could build the motor to handle boost that will be added later. Plan the build and build the plan. It is truly a mistake trying to build a motor around a cam - it will lead to unhappiness and/or wasted money.

 

[64nailhead]

No need to get insulting of a beginner with limited funds... and flat tappet cams have worked fine for 100 years... Most of us still run them...

Vinnie isn't being insulting, but rather making sure the young man understands the error of his way that he described how the build is going. He's trying to stop him from 'putting good money on top of bad'. At least that's what I see he's trying to do.

OP - I have to admit that you're in a great spot get some forced induction education. If your 305 is a sound motor, then there is no better time than the present to become addicted to boost. About all you need is a boost ready carb. I'm not familiar with anyone boosting through an Eddie, but all that is needed is a 2 barrel 390 Holley with some basic mods, a basic mod to the distributor and to boost reference the fuel pump. After that a chinesium wastegate, BOV and small turbo. All of this can be had for well under $1000 and perhaps $600 if you can handle the carb mods yourself.

Learn how to tune your fuel (carb) and spark on the motor that you aren't in love with. Then save to build 600-800 hp drift motor.

Sometimes it's just as much fun to 'run what you brung' :thumbup:

 

[64nailhead]

Very true I didn’t even think about that. I’m sure he does have at least 1 decent set of heads I can use. Now I did reading that a blow through carb would be needed. But also read that if not going over 8psi that wouldn’t be necessary? Tell me if I’m wrong though. Or if I used a carb enclosure I could stick with the stock carb?

Yes, it's necessary and here's a newsflash - you won't stop at 8 psi - trust me. Here's some good reading : Build a Blow-Through Carb for Less Than $50 - Hot Rod Network

Of course, if you can afford it, a CSU carb is the way to go.

edit : just noticed - I think we are off the original topic/title of this thread - lol