[BuzzLOL]

This is excellent advice. It's what I was thinking too.

Leaving things stock ??? How'd you get on this forum ??? ... R U Nuts ??? ...LOL !!!

 

[64nailhead]

This is excellent advice. It's what I was thinking too.

Leaving things stock ??? How'd you get on this forum ??? ... R U Nuts ??? ...LOL !!!

Building to a predetermined goal and application should be the intended end result. Not everyone wants to be roasting the tires at every stop sign or red light.

And there is nothing wrong with a properly tuned Q-jet. FITech? Sure, but more money will be needed than the kit and it will take time and effort that won't be realized if the budget isn't there for the build to begin with.

DRIVE IT AND ENJOY - is always my first goal (and sounds like the OP's as well.)

 

[BuzzLOL]

Since the gas mpg sucked back when i use to drive it, we thought we would do some easy but moderate improvements under the hood.

we might think about a cam swap since the engine is on a stand. He couldn't recommend which one for my setup since he is a Ford guy.

what does the forum suggest for good mpg and overall torque? Is it worth the $$'s or stay with the stock cam?

I had forgot to mention that I had removed the stock exhaust manifold and install a set for Doug Thorley headers that had given me noticeable improved power...

but @ $200 for a cam and lifters would work if I saw a modest improvement in performance and mpg.

I going to have to rethink the EFI vs Carb.

I guess I now need to determine the right cam to choose.

Mike and Philip

Looks like Mike really wants to make some improvements...

 

[BuzzLOL]

The EFI offers alot more benefits.Better, quicker starts, especially in cold weather

Actually, nothing starts quicker than a Q-Jet warm or cold... the newer EFI cars crank over two or three times as the computer figures out where the engine parts are and then it starts... But a Q-Jet car in good tune just starts most of the time, you don't even hear the engine crank over...

 

[64nailhead]

Looks like Mike really wants to make some improvements...

Then he ought to save the money to build what he wants. $200-500 is not going to get it done (most everyone here knows that I hope.) If he wants to spend money, then spend it on items that can be used when the money allows for upgrades that are going to make a real difference - i.e. - headers. Cam and heads need to work in unison, otherwise it will be beyond disappointing - been there, done that.

 

[BuzzLOL]

Then he ought to save the money to build what he wants. $200-500 is not going to get it done ... spend it on items that can be used when the money allows for upgrades that are going to make a real difference - i.e. - headers.

As has been mentioned twice above, he already added headers...

Actually, the $86/set pistons I linked above plus some gaskets and a carb. tune may give everything he really wants... much better MPG and a little boost in HP and torque everywhere...
.

 

[techinspector1]

If the OP absolutely has to change cams, then this is all the cam I would recommend for use with otherwise stock components and crummy heads....

Crane 113971 (H248-2)
Brute low end torque, smooth idle, daily usage, fuel
economy, 1600-2200 cruise RPM, 7.75 to 8.75 compression
ratio advised. (50 state legal, pre-computer, C.A.R.B.
Operating range 800-4600 rpm's
192/204 0.050" duration
248/260 advertised duration
0.400"/0.427" valve lift

I'm pretty sure that you'd find the stock intake duration back in the 170's somewhere, so 192 would be a substantial change. Always, always, always match the intake duration to the static compression ratio of the motor. You see that this cam calls for a static compression ratio of 7.75 to 8.75. We're pretty sure the stock motor fits into this bracket somewhere, so it should do a great job for you fellows and Mom will never know there's a hotrod cam in the motor.

The OP is hereby cautioned to read and heed this tutorial concerning the life and times of flat tappet cams in today's roller world.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks

He is further cautioned to read and heed cautions about using a flat tappet cam with engine oil that has insufficient phosphorus and zinc.

 

[jokerZ71]

Actually, nothing starts quicker than a Q-Jet warm or cold... the newer EFI cars crank over two or three times as the computer figures out where the engine parts are and then it starts... But a Q-Jet car in good tune just starts most of the time, you don't even hear the engine crank over...

That's simply not true.If an EFI has to turn over that much, there are other things going on.The computer doesn't have to figure anything out.When the key is switched to the on position, a relay primes the injectors & the computer knows exactly "where the engine parts are" anytime the switch is on.That's a real LOL Buzz.The cam/crank sensor reads as soon as it sees voltage.Even my old motor with almost 400,000 miles starts instantly at a touch of the key wether it's 0* or 100* outside & sits there & idles perfectly at approx 900 rpm until warmed up, then drops to 650 with no choke.No sitting there keeping it runni g til it warms up.The PCM monitors & makes constant changes to fuel/air & timing constantly.1,000's of times per minute.It doesn't need to turn over 3 or 4 times to figure anything out.

 

[jokerZ71]

It doesn't appear the OP is trying to spin 6000 rpm at the track, or, win any races.It sounds like he wants improved milage/performance, & reliability. He also mentioned a camper somewhere.
No doubt those heads are the main killer here to any of his goals & even tho the #193's I recommended earlier are not a performance head, they are a cheap (as in sometimes free) upgrade over the current heads.The 65 cc chambers will get the compression up into the 9:1 range & since they were designed & used with throttlebody injection, they will work great with the FI Tech system. Combined with a good cam in the 200 to 205* intake duration & good exhaust, it would make a very good easy, cheap upgrade in performance & milage.The 193's won't flow much past .450" lift, so, no reason to go any farther with lift & a cam that size will fit rite in with compression & rpm range of the heads.

 

[BuzzLOL]

That's simply not true.If an EFI has to turn over that much, there are other things going on. The computer doesn't have to figure anything out.No sitting there keeping it runni g til it warms up.

Not true, you need to go out and start your old truck and listen how many times the engine turns over... The sensors do nothing until something spins past them, then they send a message to the 'puter, which has to interpret them... also, no need to keep a Q-Jet engine running, just put in gear and drive off... When I drive a newer EFI vehicle, I often embarrassingly turn the key off starter position too soon and it doesn't start, because I'm not used to waiting for it to start after going from a Q-Jet vehicle...

Don't know yet just what Mike is looking for... Those 65cc Swirl heads will only give ~8.5:1 with the stock dished pistons with 4 eye brows and huge champfer around the outside edge... plus his -339 heads only have 89K miles so should only need some new valve seals to go another 100,000 miles... some stronger flat top hypereut pistons would be a good upgrade with no other changes to the engine since then the short block would be ready for any future upgrades like heads or cam...
.

 

[jokerZ71]

Not true, you need to go out and start your old truck and listen how many times the engine turns over... The sensors do nothing until something spins past them, then they send a message to the 'puter, which has to interpret them... also, no need to keep a Q-Jet engine running, just put in gear and drive off... When I drive a newer EFI vehicle, I often embarrassingly turn the key off starter position too soon and it doesn't start, because I'm not used to waiting for it to start after going from a Q-Jet vehicle...

Don't know yet just what Mike is looking for... Those 65cc Swirl heads will only give ~8.5:1 with the stock dished pistons with 4 eye brows and huge champfer around the outside edge... plus his -339 heads only have 89K miles so should only need some new valve seals to go another 100,000 miles... some stronger flat top hypereut pistons would be a good upgrade with no other changes to the engine since then the short block would be ready for any future upgrades like heads or cam...
.

My truck & any other EFI engine that is good working order does not nor does it need to spin before starting.It will start instantly.Sounds like the 1's you have experience with must need some work. 89,000 miles on that short block & heads would be considered high milage by that era's standard.Most of those motors of that period were 100,000 mile motors, IF, properly maintained.To make it worse, sitting idle for as long as it has is also hard on it.Changing pistons is more likely than not gonna turn into a complete rebuild, including possibly needing to be bored.He doesn't seem to be wanting to go to this extreme at this point.
His compression with swirl port heads will be just over 9:1 unless he uses a really thick gasket.Actually even replacing the heads & cam on this motor could cause problems & put strain on the worn bottomend.