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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
now that i am learning more about engines and components im starting to actually be able to help answer questions people have.. well i have a question.. know its a n00b one but i was just wondering if anyone had on-hand how much HP a stock 5.7 SBC rod can handle.. i know its not all about hp.. its more about the stress put on it.. just to show what i was thinking of... i was wondering if it would be "OK" to put a set of stock SBC rods on 383 stroker pistons to make the piston/rod combo.. and how much HP it would withstand.. im not planning on more than about 450... probably not even that much.
 

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"Pink Rods"

I woudl at least hold out for a set of "pink rods" Now those things are not "magic" they are stock SBC rods that have been magnafluxed and the big and small ends have been sized to the proper tolerance..

I woudl defintely send the rotating assembly out to be balanced and then check your bearing tolerances very carefully when putting this thing together..makes a difference in the life of the motor..Also can help the HP a bit..

Might take a bit of searching around to find a machine shop that can do this for you..

Just how much HP you get will depend on your tuning skills and how long this thing lasts depends on the application of right foot..

OMT
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lol.. in some cases depends MORE on application of left foot.. hah i've got the book getting big inches from your small block.. ive read through most of it.. will be rereading it throught the build.. im probably going to go with speed pro forged 383 .040 over pistons.. w/the scuff resistance coating... will probably end up going with eagle H beam rods in the end.. they seem to be a bit skinnier and might give me a little more clearance. says they give more clearance for monster cams.. any thought on the h-beam design??
 

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Rods?

I really have not looked into the Eagle rods..The h-beam design works fine for most applications..

Seems the budget is the main factor LOL..in the selection of parts..Given that some good aftermarket rods would be the next choice..:thumbup:

OMT
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
its crazy that a set of RODS cost you 200+ bucks... at 200 bucks thats 25 dollars a rod.. lol... for pistons i have pretty much decided i am going with speedpro forged.. with the rings and pins included.. its around 349 from jegs.. rods... still debating.. anyone that made a 383 have comments on rods that require minimal or no grinding to fit w/o scrubbing??
 

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When you talk stock chevy rods, there at least four or five different versions in production engines. Several different "heavy " rods. Including the "Pink" rods and truck rods. Then there are a couple different "lightweight" rods used after the late seventies. Now the "powder rod". Don't mixem up in an assembly!!
 

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stock chevy rods

Theres nothing wrong with stock chevy rods. Ive got stock rods in my 377 drag motor. All i did to them was add arp. rod bolts . Then i ground the side beams to maxi flux for cracks. Grinding doesn't do much but makes it easier to see cracks. Then i put steel shot in my blast cabinet and blasted the beams as much as i could . I feel this helps relieve stress on the side beams. Then i resized the rods . I went to the small side on tolances because it was to be a high rpm motor and sometimes the big end will egg shape at high rpm and not hold the bearing like it should. I feel this helps prevent this. The motor made 520 hp on dyno and has well over 300 runs on it. Goes though the traps at about 7600. and has seen 8000 on replay tac. So stock rods work fine if set up right.
 
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