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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone had to use steering stop leak? If so, did it work? The steering input shaft seal is leaking on my '39 and would like to take the easy way out!
 

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True Hotrodder
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No loss if it doesn't work other than the money spent for it.
 

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The reason coolant and oil stop leaks sometimes work is your dealing with low pressures. Maybe 25psi for coolant and 80psi for oil tops.

With power steering your dealing with 1200 to 2200 psi. Anything that is going to seal is going to harden in the reservoir.

Best to just fix this right.
 

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Old(s) Fart
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Most stop leak products are just solvents that are designed to soften and swell seals. This works for a while, until the now softened seal wears out. Typically good for a car you plan to sell. Not so much for one you plan to keep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Chas, that was my thought too, give the simple fix a try. The main thing I'm trying to avoid is changing the rack. Easy to get to the tie rod nuts and mounting bolts BUT the hoses are tucked WAY up in. When I installed it the dog house was off which made it a little easier. Good news is that I have a lifetime replacement of the rack but the cost of spending 3-4 nights in a loonie bin is high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, when building a '30s car you run out of room real quick. Blivets happen on builds.
 

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Doghouse=Van/COE
Front clip/nose=Car or truck.

Whats wrong with pulling the front clip?

Grab a piece of paper, tape, a marker, and a handful of ziplocks. Grab a towel to tape(painters) to the front of the door edge to keep the fender from hitting it hurting the paint. Another towel by the cowl to protect that paint/windshield.

Ok use the marker to circle around any bolts and spacers under those bolts that need to be removed.
This little step helps greatly with realigning everything as you simply position the bolts to where the marker is no longer covered and your dang near spot on every time.

Make a little drawing numbering the bolt locations that you removed and number of spacers. Then throw those into ziplocks. So if you removed a drivers rear hood hinge bolt and lets just say that turned out to be #12 with one spacer. When you go to put this thing back together you grab your 12 bag and tighten down the bolt and spacer snug(snugging other bolts) then move them to where the marker is no longer covered then tighten.
 
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