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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a chance to buy a very straight 69 Chevy 2 wheel drive pickup. As of right now, it has a straight 6 and a 3 on the tree. If i buy it i would like to build a 383 for it. I have also located a Muncie 4 spd that i would like to put in it. Does anyone know what all has to be done to make this conversion possible? Or is it even possible to put in a Muncie 4 spd in a truck and put on a longer shifter knob? I think that a hot 383 and a 4 spd in a light truck would be a lot of fun to drive. Any suggestions or input? Thanx.
 

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You'll need motor mounts, you'll have to cut a whole in the floor for the shifter, and you'll probably need to find a longer shift handle.

Actually, this should be a pretty easy swap. Since these trucks were available with a V8, small block motor mounts are available for it. Often times, the frame on GM vehicles will even have the holes drilled in it for the V8 motor mounts to bolt to.

As for the shifter, that shouldn't be too hard to find. The big thing will be which muncie this is. A lot of pickups came with SM465's or similar top-loader transmissions, so it would be easy to find the long truck-size shifter for one of these. I'm sure that there are vehicles that came with a long shifter (or plenty of aftermarket ones available) just be aware that if you don't have a short-throw shifter and you put a long handle on it, you may end up with a knob that hits the seat in reverse and the dash in first.

Should be a fun truck if you get a 383 in it.

Chris
 

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Thats a bolt in job. You will need the frame and engine mounts for the SBC for a 69 Chevy pickup and you are in business. You will also need the proper flywheel for your V-8. The bellhousing should bolt up to your V-8. You will need to relocate your radiator rearward, unless you want to invest in an electric fan, which doing that, you can eliminate the fan on your water pump. You will need slighly longer radiator hoses as well. This can be solved by using some exhaust tubing the same diameter as your hose. Cut the hose and splice in the tubing.

You shouldnt have to use more than 5-6 inches of tubing for each hose.
 

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The frame and motor mounts are the same between the 6cyl and V-8. The frame mount is mounted farther rearward on the frame for the 6cyl length. To mount the V-8 in it's stock location, move the frame brackets to the forward holes that are already there. I have mounted V-8's in on 6cyl mounts, but clearance around the firewall is tight, as well as header/clutch linkage interference. Your best bet is to mount the V-8 in it's stock factory location and use hoses for the application. Dan
 

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Hello,
I have a 1969 C-10 and when I bought it it had a 307 in it with a muncie 4 speed that someone had retrofitted into it. It was also originally a 3 on the tree. They had cut a hure gole in the floor for the shifter, and made a longer handle for it. It worked great, but the amount you had to move the shifter to shift was crazy, you could not speed it to save your life. Well,the muncie died on me(stripped a gear, couldnt handle my new motor)and I put in a 700r4, and I love it. Now its a 350 with a 144 weiand blower, and the 700r4 with a 3.73 posi rear, and I love it!! Just my 2 cents, it will work, the shifter will just be a little sloppy.

Subman
 

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OK, the one thing nobody has asked yet and would make a big difference is - Just what size is the 6 that's in there now? If it is a GM (probably, but you never know) and it's a 250 or smaller than a small block will indeed drop in and then you just have your tranny and fan/radiator issues. If it's a 292 then you will need new engine mounts as the 292 has the... passenger side mount, I think, further forward than the dirver's side. If you wanted to do it piecemeal and have a 250 (or smaller) now, you could bolt a small block up to your current tranny as they share bellhousing patterns. Then get the manual trans you really want, plan out your linkages with the engine already in the truck and still enjoy your truck in the meantime. That way you don't have to drop all your cash at once if you don't want to.
 

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you'll probably need heavier springs all the way around it.coils up front for the extra weight and torque and the rear for extra torque and h.p..you can get them from a newer pick-up at the junk yard.if yours is a half ton ithink i'd get them from a 3/4 ton or maybe a 4 wheel drive so they'll be heavy enough to handle the extra h.p..you can also get the larger sway bar.
 

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It's pretty well a bolt in swap.You can still get the correct rad. hoses at the parts store. find a wiring harness at the salvage yard or redo the one you have. a muffler shop can fab an exhaust system. You may have to get a radiator for the v/8 (4 core) available at the parts store. Shrouds are available from several after market suppliers. Suspension should be ok.

Troy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well i am glad to hear that there isnt going to be a whole lot of work that has to be done to get this project rolling. The current motor in the pickup is a 250 straight six. So a V8 should bolt in to the current motor mounts correct? Someone mentioned something about not being able to make quick shifts with the longer stick shifter. Could a guy be able to find a shorter shifter to make shorter shifts. Cuz that would honestly suck if you couldnt bang gears every now and then. Any more ideas or suggestions? Thanx.
 

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My issue with the sloppy shifts was a combination of the granny low speed truck muncie sm420 I believe, and the super long handle. May not be an issue with a tranny that hadnt had the snot beaten out of it by the previous owner like mine. :smash:
 

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67-72 should have the same provisions. My 72 K5 Blazer had the same mounting holes as previously discussed. I haven't looked that closely at the frame on my 67 yet to check for differences.

Do you already have the 327 and powerglide? If not don't waste your time. Modern trends are towards more cubes and more gears. Go for at least 350 cubic inches and a 700R4 or 4L80E. Heck, even a 200-4R on behind a mild 350 may work? Plans for my 67 short bed are for a 406 and 4L80E.
 

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Since a similar powertrain was available in the truck, most of the cost is for the new engine and transmission, there isn't much "conversion" that is needed.

I think I would go for a 350 or 383 (built however you want), and a TH350 or beefed up Th700R4. These powertrain combos are very easy to find, and you can build them to fit your budget and drop them right in. The automatic transmission won't need any holes cut in the floor if you use OEM column linkage, but you could very easily add a ratchet floor shifter if you want to make it a little sportier.

I know a 4 speed would be fun, but the high seating position in a truck does not fit very well with short throw shifters. With a stock (long) shifter, driving a 4 speed feels like you are rowing the truck between gears.

Bruce
 

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I had a 4 speed in my 67 c10. I had to make my own shifter and cut the hole in the floor. The shift came up near the seat edge. (not good).

If you want a manual then I would get a 5 spd from a V8 90's pickup, as the shifter location is setup more forward on the transmission.

also consider to buy a complete engine and transmission from a later model truck. A 96 to 2000 350 vortec would be a good drive line to start with. make sure to get a complete setup (from fan to tail housing).

or maybe go with a really late model 5.3 liter LS engine and trans, as you can find good running engines for cheap, cheap, cheap. and they make good power and get good mpg. Harder to install but cheaper as you don't need to spend money on a rebuild.
 

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hello,

Seems like a good swap.. but here are the things I would concentrate on most:

1. Clutch linkage- If I remember correctly the pivot arm is bolted to the side of the straight 6. When a v8 is installed.. a new shorter pivot arm needs to go in the same area.. because of course the v8 is wider. Does the v8 you are considering have the clutch arm mounting boss on the block? Does it need drilled and tapped? These linkage pieces may be hard to find.. even though they were plentiful 35 years ago.

2. Flywheel/Clutch/Pressure plate combination- That straight 6 probably has a light duty 10" clutch combo in it. Maybe a medium duty 11" combo in it. You could bolt these right up to a v8. But if your v8 has good power and torque.. you can shatter the 10" and 11" like they were nothing. So it would probably be best to go with a 12" combo;

standard duty 12" x 1 1/8" 10 tooth or spline @ $125+

medium duty 12" x 1 1/8" 10 tooth or spline @$225+

severe duty 12" x 1 1/8" 10 tooth or spline @$425+ :thumbup:

3. The flywheel and starter need to match...

4. Exhaust headers and system modifications.. Will the new headers interfere with the clutch mechanism? :sweat:

5. Larger radiator et cetera

6. Larger transmission modifications for installing 4 spd in the floor shift.

7. Driveshaft modifications to length...

Does this help any?
 
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