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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i have a 1985 chevy c10 shortbed and id like to make it a street rod and mild strip truck (friday night after school only maybe saturday lol) and also sometimes a daily driver, when i can afford the gas...:) this is what i have to start off with
350 4 bolt main .040 over bare block.
th350 (needs rebuilt with shift kit)
the truck will be lowered but not slamed like lowriders or what ever you call them (cars). it will be lowered 2/4. and this is my question... is making 500hp too much for a street rod/ mild strip? and is making 500 hp with $5000 possible? If making 500hp for street rods is reasonable then how would i make 500hp?

Thanks for replying!
 

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Check out this short block. It is a 4 bolt main block too. Chev 383ci Super Short Block, Early w/Driver Side Dip, 9.7:1-Competition Products. You purchase this short block and then purchase these aluminum heads Patriot, Freedom Series Alum. Chev SB Head, Assm., 190/64cc-Competition Products. This Howards Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam will give you the power you need. Howards, Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit, Chev SB-Competition Products. Call about the short block and make a list of what does not come with it. Like oil pump, oil pan, head gaskets,water pump and gaskets, valve covers and gaskets. Go thru the list and see what you already have or can get cheap. If a block is all you have this is the way to go. This 383 ci motor won't be 500 horsepower but it will be fast. You really don't need 500 hp on the street. I forgot when it comes time get an Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake and a Holley 3310 750cfm carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check out this short block. It is a 4 bolt main block too. Chev 383ci Super Short Block, Early w/Driver Side Dip, 9.7:1-Competition Products. You purchase this short block and then purchase these aluminum heads Patriot, Freedom Series Alum. Chev SB Head, Assm., 190/64cc-Competition Products. This Howards Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam will give you the power you need. Howards, Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit, Chev SB-Competition Products. Call about the short block and make a list of what does not come with it. Like oil pump, oil pan, head gaskets,water pump and gaskets, valve covers and gaskets. Go thru the list and see what you already have or can get cheap. If a block is all you have this is the way to go. This 383 ci motor won't be 500 horsepower but it will be fast. You really don't need 500 hp on the street. I forgot when it comes time get an Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake and a Holley 3310 750cfm carburetor.
I have forgotten to add this i already have an Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake but my carb is just a Holly 660
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No 500hp is not too much. $5000 will get it done if you keep it simple
and spend the money where it will do the most good.

350+.040" Low 8:1 compression ratio (92 octane pump gas friendly w supercharger)
resized 5.7" GM rods reground cast GM cast 350 crank
low compression -22cc dished 350 pistons. (Speedpro-Probe Forged)
large chamber straight plug Profiler 195cc cylinder heads 70-72cc chamber. (K-2 spring package for mechanical flat tappet cams)
Weiand 177 Supercharger 2.10:1 to a 2.33:1 pulley drive ratio Holley 750-850cfm DP carb (boost referenced power valve modification)
Crane Cam F280-2 #114681
Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers
1-5/8" headers 2-1/2" dual exhaust.

Th350 with 10" 3500 stall 4.10 gears + sticky M/T ET streets. 10"x 28"
MSD Boost timing master. 28 -30deg timing under boost WOT

This simple Weiand 177 street blown SBC 350 will exceed 500 HP without even breaking a sweat.

www.profilerperformance.com
www.cranecams.com
www.holley.com/division/Weiand.asp
Now i have a question about the supercharger... At first I was determined to get a supercharger but I did some research and people was saying that superchargers decrease the life of the engine... Is this true or not? Id still like a supercharger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
are you sure the carb is a "660)"? Driving the crap out of your car/poor maintenance and cheap parts will shorten the life of the engine.
Im not 100% sure its a 660 but that is what i was told and so your saying a supercharger is fine as long as i maintane it and not put cheap little parts and gun it everywhere i go? :thumbup: i can do all 3... Thanks for helping and thanks for your time
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No its not true.
The key to long engine life with a supercharger is to design the engine combo to be detonation free on 92 octane pump gas.
Thats what the low compression ratio is for and the Boost timing master is for.
The service life is not shortened.
ok thank you for that and sorry about all the questions... would my chevy 10 bolt 7.5 inch rear end with 4.10 gears hold the 500+ hp?
 

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No 500hp is not too much. $5000 will get it done if you keep it simple
and spend the money where it will do the most good.

350+.040" Low 8:1 compression ratio (92 octane pump gas friendly w supercharger)
resized 5.7" GM rods reground cast GM cast 350 crank
low compression -22cc dished 350 pistons. (Speedpro-Probe Forged)
large chamber straight plug Profiler 195cc cylinder heads 70-72cc chamber. (K-2 spring package for mechanical flat tappet cams)
Weiand 177 Supercharger 2.10:1 to a 2.33:1 pulley drive ratio Holley 750-850cfm DP carb (boost referenced power valve modification)
Crane Cam F280-2 #114681
Scorpion 1.5 roller rockers
1-5/8" headers 2-1/2" dual exhaust.

Th350 with 10" 3500 stall 4.10 gears + sticky M/T ET streets. 10"x 28"
MSD Boost timing master. 28 -30deg timing under boost WOT

This simple Weiand 177 street blown SBC 350 will exceed 500 HP without even breaking a sweat.

Pro-Filer Performance Products
Crane Cams | Automotive Home Page
Holley Performance Weiand Products
5 Grand??.Price it out with a parts list please.Current pricing and no magazine articles ref's please.

Blower maintenance??. Bearings/re-stripping the blower veins??.

The reason why the aftermarket offers forged crank snouts the increased size to BBC size on SBC cranks is blowers are hard on crank snouts and front main bearings.It is a way for them to address reliability issues that have occurred enough times for them to forge the cranks.

Gas mileage with a blower I doubt.They need a rich mix on both the bottom end and at the top end.Worst thing that can happen with a blower motor is a lean condition.
 

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A cast crank will easily handle up to 500 horsepower. Some people have gone higher but forged is recommended for anything over 500 horsepower. I have read that forged cranks have been used for up to 1500 horsepower.
 

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I wonder if you'll be able to use 500hp on the street or the track with short bed PU truck? I guess if you add enough weight to the rear, and get enough tire under it you might get some traction.
The small 10 bolt's weak points are the posi and the axle size. I'd probably go to aftermarket axles that are beefier, and be sure to get an outboard bearing kit to retain the axles better if you do happen to twist one. The stock c clips will allow the axle to exit the housing if you snap one!
Probably going to have to address the trans too. Just building a 500hp engine is the beginning. After it's in there the rest the drivetrain needs to be upgraded to handle it and work.
 

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Everyone here has great advise so the one thing I can add is to do your research and match all of your components. I have seen so many guys mis match Carburator size,cams, compression ratio, valve diameters, single plane/dual plane manifolds even high rise manifolds create issues. You need to decide what RPM range you will be running, are you a stop light to stop light kind of driver or are you most interested in top speed. with some well thought out planning you can build a monster small block for $5k or less. Good luck when your finished you will need plastic surgery to wipe the smile from you face.
 

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Well you can waste your money as you like.

All you need is good basic block machining. stock GM Rods resized correctly,
stock GM crank reground correctly. and the low compression dished forged pistons.
rebalancing the crank is nice.

The short block is very very simple and basic.
The blower is not hard on the short block at all.

Id even build this motor with the KB hyers with the 21cc dish.
All that is required is the biger top piston ring end gap and correct low compression ratio and correct engine tune ( timing,jetting) and decent gas in the tank.

The forged -22cc dished pistons are the same price so.....

it is detonation (incorrect tune, crap gas, fuel lean out, excessive boost, excessive timing for fuel octane-compression ratio) and way excessive rpm ABUSE (7500+rpm) that kills motors, Not superchargers.

383 stroker cranks are inherently weaker than a stock 350 crank.

Wait a minute.Why am I re-grounding a 350 crank and then why is a 383 crank inherently weaker??. Kind of lost me there.

I said blower motors are jetted richer to avoid a lean condition so they don't get good gas mileage and you told us no that isn't true. But then you said a proper tune is re-jetting for a blower motor.:confused:

I do know cams for a blower motor are usually conservative in lift and you don't want much over lap.

Howards doesn't offer all the cranks just for the fun of it:

Chev SB with BB Snout

Honestly,if it was a customer of ours,we would recommend against a cast crank to the extent where if the customer didn't want to follow our recommendations,turn down the build.

You talk about re-sizing rods,but nothing about ARP bolts,treatment of the rods like shot-pinning(sp??) or anything else.:confused:

I mean you can get a decent set of forged rods for not alot of money.Why risk it??.

I think that is my point overall. Why risk it at all??. I do think about how our posts go over the world wide web and some guy who we never talked to or posted to does something really risky and loses thousands of dollars he can't afford. There is a certain amount of responsibly we need to be mindful in the advise we give. Marginal builds falls into the category.:nono:

Remember the approach of a "open book build"??. We do need to return back to that in it will provide a margin of safety in the builds we suggest. Nothing has changed in Hot Rodding. It costs money to go fast,if it sounds too good to be true,it is likely not,you don't get something for nothing.

This quote was intended to F-Bird.Sorry Vinnie,I don't know why it worked out like this.
 

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1gary,I read your whole post? I was wondering why you would think I was not being responsible. I often question how someone can build an engine so cheap? I dont post as many details as tech/bogie/paintedJ/ These guys I really respect and if I state something different,especially tech,its not in the form of an argument as much as a debate.The same applies to you 1gary,I believe you offer great advice too.If I dont agree totally its just an opinion.
 

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1gary,I read your whole post? I was wondering why you would think I was not being responsible. I often question how someone can build an engine so cheap? I dont post as many details as tech/bogie/paintedJ/ These guys I really respect and if I state something different,especially tech,its not in the form of an argument as much as a debate.The same applies to you 1gary,I believe you offer great advice too.If I dont agree totally its just an opinion.
Vinnie-as I said I quoted the wrong person.I intended to be F-Bird.

I read and enjoy alot of your posts too.Man,I'm sorry for the miss-understanding. And I do get your point.
 
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