Do a search on this site and see what has been previously posted. I just took my '56 down to metal and used three different methods. The sheet metal was a heavy gauge, so I used a sand blaster (with aluminum oxide as the grit) on most of the body. However, it takes a large capacity compressor (50 gallon) and the heat build-up can warp the sheetmetal on newer cars. Unfortunately, my compressor gave out when I was about half done. The compressor was under warranty, but I was in a hurry, so I started using a chemical stripper. Any good automotive paint supply can give you all of the information you need. I highly recommend lots of ventilation and a good respirator. After 'painting' the surface with stripper, cover it with plastic wrap to give you plenty of working time. Then it's just a matter of waiting (45-60 minutes)and scraping the old paint off. Depending on the amount of old paint, it may take several applications to get down to metal. I found the downside with strippers to be the amount of clean-up involved and the possibility of the stripper remaining in the cracks which can ruin your paint. You just need to make sure you clean everything really well before you prime. One other trick is to spread plastic under the areas you are stripping. When you are done for the day, you can roll up the plastic and throw the mess away. There wasn't much paint left on the roof so I decided to sand it off. A good quality randon orbit sander, or DA will take it down to metal in no time. I would check previous postings for the recommended grits for the sandpaper. I started with 100 grit, but would hate for you to follow my example.
yes stripper works best always, and faster especially if you got large area its not gonna be fun to sandblast it. theres different strippers too, if youre too lazy thers strippers that take off only paint and wont even harm ur mouldings or glass/chrome, some are for fiberglass and some just take off coat at a time.