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I'd Rather Be Blown
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I am starting a project for my Daughter in law. she inherited a 66 mustang that has been sitting in the back yard in Washington for 15 years. As you can imagine i have a lot to do. Getting it running was easy. new breaks all around easy. Now to the exhaust leak. The 200 CI 6 had a bad leak where it did the heater under the carb. no big deal right.... WRONG!
Every bolt that I tried to remove on the top just snapped off. :spank: the heads of the bolts seamed to be small ???? weird... so i just used a torch and cut the bottom ones off.
So now i have the manifold off and the bolts have been lubed with buster penetrating oil repeatedly. when I put vise-grips on the easy to get to one still no luck in getting them out.
HELP me please!!!!!
Am I stuck pulling the head and drilling them all out and re taping the head?
 

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Super Moderator
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If you don't have an Oxy/Acetylene torch its easiest to take the head off and have a machine shop remove them for you, they can also repair any that are not salvageable with helicoils.

Other methods are hit or miss and are time consuming compared to having a professional do it, spent many hours repairing threaded holes for people that could have save a lot of time and money had they brought it to me first.

Your about to hear about a number of methods that have worked for other people but without a torch and or welder amy not won't work on every hole. Think about what your time is worth to you...most machine shops would get them out in an afternoon for less than $100 and be able to save every hole if they get first crack at it unless the cast iron is rotten and porous.
 

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get them out in an afternoon for less than $100 and be able to save every hole if they get first crac

Where is a machine shop that will do a job like that for less than $100?

My shop gets a minimum of $25.00 per stud/bolt and we are mid priced. Correct on the torch and welder.. Plus good drills and taps. One stud can take a lot of time. At $25.00 per stud I seldom make money on the job. Considering time, tools, materials. More of a customer service thing.:thumbup:
 

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Redneck Professional
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1,071 Posts
I am starting a project for my Daughter in law. she inherited a 66 mustang that has been sitting in the back yard in Washington for 15 years. As you can imagine i have a lot to do. Getting it running was easy. new breaks all around easy. Now to the exhaust leak. The 200 CI 6 had a bad leak where it did the heater under the carb. no big deal right.... WRONG!
Every bolt that I tried to remove on the top just snapped off. :spank: the heads of the bolts seamed to be small ???? weird... so i just used a torch and cut the bottom ones off.
So now i have the manifold off and the bolts have been lubed with buster penetrating oil repeatedly. when I put vise-grips on the easy to get to one still no luck in getting them out.
HELP me please!!!!!
Am I stuck pulling the head and drilling them all out and re taping the head?
If you have to ask (sorry) then I would pull the head and have it professionally done. It's typically an easy job for someone with the expertise, but only if you don't mess with it further.


FYI, I don't have this expertise myself and I realize it. When I was young I once watched my landlord (an old farmer with big-time mechanical skills) drill the center and then blow a snapped off bolt out of a dead-ended bolt hole on a head with a torch. It was mine. Left virtually clean threads. Truly amazing.
 

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Ask around about having them removed by welding. I dont even bother trying to drill out most bolts. I do many myself but local to me is a guy with a portable TIG that does nothing but go around to shops and remove bolts, he stays very busy usually doing 10 stops a day at $75 minimum per.
 

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machinist & fabricator
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676 Posts
if you just cut the heads off,
and have a stud sticking out of the block.
remove the short block from the vehicle.


I had this issue on a few engines ive tried to salvage.


I had a lot of success with a pipe wrench on the stud,
(vicegrips suck in this situation)
a crap load of PB blaster, MAP gas, and a hammer on the top of the stud.
soon as it moves a bit, tighten it, and retry.
keep going like this until they come out.


don't go balls out and try to keep spinning it with maximum effort.
they will break again.
 

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You're making more work for yourself, trying to save money. Im not trying to be rude; but I live in the rust belt and we see this a lot.

The car has sat for 15 years; by the way KUDOS for taking this on for your daughter in law. I think thats awesome.
Anyway, that head should be pressure tested, its going to need new seals, probably valve guides, etc.
So you'll spend a weekend fighting with great Rust Monster, and risk junking the head; and still have to lug it to the machine shop for the overhaul/pressure test. Do it all one time; its cheaper. Have them inspect the valvetrain side of things, if the head is deemed useable, then have them knock the studs out. If the head needs a grand invested in it, why even bother fighting with the studs? Get a new head and walk away happy.
 

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get them out in an afternoon for less than $100 and be able to save every hole if they get first crac

Where is a machine shop that will do a job like that for less than $100?

My shop gets a minimum of $25.00 per stud/bolt and we are mid priced. Correct on the torch and welder.. Plus good drills and taps. One stud can take a lot of time. At $25.00 per stud I seldom make money on the job. Considering time, tools, materials. More of a customer service thing.:thumbup:
A lot depends on how bad they are, I often pulled 16 broken bolts in less than an hour...having the right skills/experience plus tools makes short work of jobs the average guy struggles with.
 

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I'd Rather Be Blown
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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for all your help
I tried most of those ideas to no avail
now the head is off and the drill is going in
 

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thanks for all your help
I tried most of those ideas to no avail
now the head is off and the drill is going in

Good luck. I would only do that with the head off and clamped to a plate on my Bridgeport.


I also have an assortment of drill bushings and holders that allows the drill to go straight and stay on center.


This is one I did last year, I needed to add a hole into the web of a SBC to locate an oil pickup tube. On an engine just back from the shop. No pressure... but it drilled and tapped fine with a little tooling to help out.
 

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