I brought home an 8.8 from the wreckers yesterday. It's from a 97 Ranger and was sitting on the ground- no wheels. It was hit on the cab. The box was removed and sold and the axle looks fine. I've got it in the shop on jack stands and I cannot remove the drums. I've been tap tap tapping all over with a hammer. I tried putting a pry bar on the studs but can't move the axle. I put the pry bar on the axle pinion flange and it flexes just a little but no axle movement. I'm assuming the shoes are stuck to the drums. Any ideas???
Stuck drum removal- wrecker rearend
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
24 Posts
stuck
You must back off the self adjuster in order to remove because the shoes have worn into the drum material
You must back off the self adjuster in order to remove because the shoes have worn into the drum material
Hotmetal100, I've been there when the shoes catch on the edge of the wear zone but that's not what's got this one. The drums won't turn, wiggle or anything at all. I think the shoes are stuck right to the drums. I haven't tried squirting bolt remover in back of the drum yet but I may have to.
I work on brakes for a living and have for the past 25 years and see this all the time... Simply use a good large shop hammer approx 3 lb or more and dont be afraid to knock the crap out of the drum... But you must hit it only on a 45 degree angle on the outer edge... If you hit the face or the shoe area (outer band) then it will break... Also be sure to apply penatrant oil to the center... Several good raps may be required and at various points around the drum...
This action serves two purposes... One it knocks the rust or brake dust that has accumlated inside the drum loose... But most important is it puts a kind of spring effect on the center to make it bounce off the axle face and come loose...
This never fails and to this day I have never broken a drum and it really freaks people out when I do it...
This action serves two purposes... One it knocks the rust or brake dust that has accumlated inside the drum loose... But most important is it puts a kind of spring effect on the center to make it bounce off the axle face and come loose...
This never fails and to this day I have never broken a drum and it really freaks people out when I do it...
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
Bumpstick is right, I have voraciously beat the snot out a drum with an 8 pound sledgehammer to try to get it to let go of the shoes and axle, and I have yet to break more than the outer edge of any of the drums I have had to break loose.
I have even had the shoes and associated hardware come off with the drum on a few axles, but had absolutely no need to save much of anything there, I was just getting the drum off to get the axleshaft out, so I could part out the axle.
I have even had the shoes and associated hardware come off with the drum on a few axles, but had absolutely no need to save much of anything there, I was just getting the drum off to get the axleshaft out, so I could part out the axle.
Finally got it!
The BFH didn't work well, I cracked the edge of the drum. Oh well I'll likely have to replace them anyways. I managed to get the drum away from the axle flange. The mettalic shoes were welded solid with rust to the drums. I cut the pins on the back and managed to pry the drums out enough that I could squirt wd40 and hammer the shoes with a big screwdriver. Finally got both sides. Of course I'm way behind what I wanted to accomplish today. Oh well that's how this hobby goes.
The BFH didn't work well, I cracked the edge of the drum. Oh well I'll likely have to replace them anyways. I managed to get the drum away from the axle flange. The mettalic shoes were welded solid with rust to the drums. I cut the pins on the back and managed to pry the drums out enough that I could squirt wd40 and hammer the shoes with a big screwdriver. Finally got both sides. Of course I'm way behind what I wanted to accomplish today. Oh well that's how this hobby goes.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!