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Im lookin to make my own suicide door hinge as a project n im doin everytin myself for my very 1st car bcan sumone help me with sum correct specs n measurements to make it please ..im from Trinidad an Tobago in d Caribbean .
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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You have a LOT of thinking and designing on this one. I did a suicide door job before they had all the hinges that are available now. It was on a VW Bug and I used 56 Ford F-100 hinges. It is VERY complicated how to mount them and such so this works. The location of the hinge PIN is the most important to the job. The door needs to go OUT before it swings back. I spent, no kidding, I spent about 30-40 hours on the first side. Then about 6 on the other after I had figured it all out.

Personally, I would scrap the idea if I were you. They are only seen when you open the door, spend that time on something you see always like a top chop or super nice paint work or what ever. Spending so much time on something that you only see when you get in and out of the car isn't worth it. And the looks of a car is sooooooo much more important with all the panels closed, why spend so much time on something that makes the car look bad as with doors or hood open? Just a suggestion.

Brian
 

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I spent over 6 weeks trying to get my doors to go Out to clear the body then slide Forward.
I gave up on it and made my own heavy duty standard (double)hinges that just used a longer hinge arm. The door opens and closes like normal. But it can open to a full 120 degrees and be removed at that point by simply lifting the door. I will use straps to limit the opening to 90 degrees which is plenty of room for entry.

Suicide hinges can be tricky depending on your body. Most doors have a curve to them at the rear. So even if you were to use a external hinge the door would still need to move out before it rotated to clear the bodywork with a double hinge setup.


If you want to be unique do something with the hood. A tilt front end (done correctly) can allow for easier work on a engine. Gas caps can be moved to unique places and bodywork in general can be molded, shaved, or just painted in a cool way to be unique.

A door is a structural thing that protects your butt in a crash and really should not be tampered with. Yes I am being a bit of a hypocrite here having run without doors or lightened doors for years for weight savings. But leaving that hinge system stock affords YOU a "bit" more crash protection in a side impact. It may also still open after a impact where as a custom setup may not. A door is also generally set into the bodywork and acts as a brace enforcing the A and B pillars protecting the cab from crushing in a roll. Adding a swing out hinge of sorts or inferior bear claw at the front may allow the door to open in a roll and severely weaken the cab's ability to prevent you having a headache.

If your going to play with the doors then a hoop setup(or double hoop) in a car or headache rack in a pickup to protect your head is recommended. My list of "you should be dead" or "another 1/4" this way and you would be dead" is longer then I want to admit. Most of those things I walked away from were due to having a makeshift roll bar that kept the roof from flattening after the first or second roll.

Keep your doors stock and find other ways to make the thing custom.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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That is good stuff Brading, if he is going to do it, THAT is the best info! The place of that hinge PIN is SOOOOOOO important!

Brian
 
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Grand Prix user
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Agreed. I have installed a few kits and the only real trick is the pin has to be very close to the skin. And able to come out, and with access for that to happen later.
 
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