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Suspension Inspections

5K views 71 replies 11 participants last post by  Tynan918 
#1 ·
Passenger side isn't so bad, but I'm concerned with the driver's side. That lower ball joint looks done for.



I'm also concerned with the grease points on the whole suspension, well some of them are flat and I'm unsure if they're worn...



 
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#3 ·
Typically when they won't take grease in and it piles up on the outside of the nipple.....The little spring loaded check ball can get stuck or rusted to the seal area inside the end of the grease nipple.
Tale a small pick or screwdriver and make sure the ball can be pushed into the grease nipple a bit, moves freely, to allow the pathway to be open.

Then make sure your grease gun hose end is squarely on the nipple, not tipped slightly to the aide like your picture shows.
It may also help sometimes to hold the hose end tight onto the nipple with one hand.

Got to get those little check balls free first though.
 
#5 ·
Typically when they won't take grease in and it piles up on the outside of the nipple.....The little spring loaded check ball can get stuck or rusted to the seal area inside the end of the grease nipple.
Tale a small pick or screwdriver and make sure the ball can be pushed into the grease nipple a bit, moves freely, to allow the pathway to be open.
^^^THIS. While I've also popped them free, the reality is that as cheap as zerk fittings are, just replace it.
 
#6 ·
Well I popped the balls and springs loose in all zerks. They take quite a bit of pressure to compress. I also used one hand to hold the grease gun with pressure and straight...still got the same results...

I believe most of the rubber boots on these points are torn.

I ended up buying this front end suspension kit and will either replace everything or...more than likely replace everything, who am I kidding ?


I also bought a locking coupler nozzle for my grease gun.
 
#9 ·
Pickle forks are fine for parts you're planning to replace. But they tend to tear boots. They aren't for anything you want to reuse.

For tie rod ends you want to reuse, this type of puller is the ticket.


And @Tynan918 , to check upper and lower ball joints, you can put the wheel on, run the lugs down snug to tight grab at 12 and 6 and push/pull back and forth. Try to do this while looking at the upper and lower ball joints. If there's a lot of clunking and play that you can see is in those ball joints, they're worn and probably could stand to be replaced.

The official test is to try to pry them up and see how much up and down play there is. But the official published specification for "worn out" is usually way more play than I'd want to have in those parts. GM doesn't like replacing ball joints under warranty, so "safe" and "within spec" extends way past what I'd call "worn out."
 
#26 ·
play...why would the center/drag link have this much play ?
Because the joints that are at the ends of that link are worn out.

You basically need to replace everything that moves on that one. It's all worn out. There's play in the idler arm, the steering gear and the tie rods don't look that great either, although they look less worn than the other parts.

If you try to do it one piece at a time, the shaking and play from the other worn parts will wear out the new parts very quickly. You really need a total rebuild/restoration.
 
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#22 ·
So far it seems I need to replace my whole front end, except the control arms themselves...which I'm considering on replacing as well as the front and rear shocks and struts...go ahead and secure the whole suspension and steering linkage parts.
 
#27 ·
You'll have to look and see if there're bolts holding the ball joints in. If there are, no need to press fit.
You only need 1 jack however, I would hold off on ball joint installation. Your upper control arm bushings are shot and need to be replaced. Probably your lowers too. The control arms need to be removed, old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in. After that's done, then you can replace your ball joints........along with everything else.
 
#30 ·
If I'm going to put in the work of replacing the whole front end, particularly the upper and lower control arms, then I would like to get the lightweight tubular type rather than the bulky stock ones...


Besides look and lightweight, what are the pros and cons of these type of control arms ?

Installation issues ?
 
#35 ·
Okay I bought a compressor and a hammer gun to remove the upper ball joints.

I bought a new center link, inner tie rods, lower and upper ball joints, and upper control arm bushings.

I also bought pickle fork ball joint and tie rod separators and ball joint compressor tool.

Everything should be here by the 6th or 7th of this month.
 
#38 ·
Probe with the screwdriver. Try to push it through the metal. Don't hammer the screwdriver, use your hands, but you can put a little push behind it. If it goes through, you have a problem.

With a hammer, use a smaller hammer, light to medium whacks. You're not trying to bend solid metal, you're looking for scaly damaged spots that have rusted through. Like trying to find soft spots (water damage) in drywall or in particle board flooring under carpet.
 
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#42 ·
You probably have a million miles on that car. All of your rubber is in the same condition........toast! Replace it all. It's best to have a spring compressor when removing coils. Your entire front suspension needs to be disassembled. Perfect time to clean and blast all components and make it pretty. Do it once, do it right. And yes, you'll need an alignment!
 
#44 · (Edited)
Ok, today is the day I receive the center link and inner tie rods.

I have those, and I have an air hammer to get out the upper ball joints, I have an air compressor to run the air hammer, I have a passenger side sway bar link because I've already replaced the driver side, I have a ball joint press, and I have pickle forks...
 
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