Can the grease points be clogged ? Even if I'm pushing down on the hose to give it a better seal, I get this scenario...
Bought these...That's more of a pitman arm puller. You need pickle forks and a BFH to separate ball joints and tie rod ends. AutoZone has 'em in their tool rental program. Shouldn't cost you a dime!
My tie rod ends are good as far as I can tell by comparing a new one to mine, bushings look good, but the driver's side ball joints were bad by the look, especially the lower ball joint.Pickle forks are fine for parts you're planning to replace. But they tend to tear boots. They aren't for anything you want to reuse.
For tie rod ends you want to reuse, this type of puller is the ticket.
And @Tynan918 , to check upper and lower ball joints, you can put the wheel on, run the lugs down snug to tight grab at 12 and 6 and push/pull back and forth. Try to do this while looking at the upper and lower ball joints. If there's a lot of clunking and play that you can see is in those ball joints, they're worn and probably could stand to be replaced.
The official test is to try to pry them up and see how much up and down play there is. But the official published specification for "worn out" is usually way more play than I'd want to have in those parts. GM doesn't like replacing ball joints under warranty, so "safe" and "within spec" extends way past what I'd call "worn out."
Yea, but with a down payment much more than what I paid on Amazon, plus Amazon returns are just the same as loaning it from Autozone or O'Reilly's..Apparently, you like spending money. AutoZone or O'Reilly's would have let you use them for free.
To each, his own.
I'll do this in a moment.You checked the tie rods for play? They aren't worn?
The condition of the rubber boots isn't an indication that they're "good." And a very worn, loose and wobbly tie rod end that's been will maintained looks similar on the outside to a brand new one. But if it's worn, it'll have a lot of play in it when you try to move the wheel.
To check tie rods, idler arm and other steering components, install the wheel and grab and 9 and 3 and push/pull like you're trying to turn the wheel on the steering axis. It should stay solid if the steering wheel is locked and doesn't move. It might move slighly if the steering lock allows movement of the steering wheel. But if it moves more than a very small amount, or if you have someone/something hold the steering wheel completely still and the wheel still moves on the steering axis, you've got worn steering parts. You have to look at the joints and parts individually as you're moving the wheel to see which ones have excess play and are moving. Or if they're really bad, you might hear the worn piece(s) clunking when the wheel moves.
What are all these parts called, so I can find and buy replacements ?
Seems so...Are all the nuts tight? Cotter pins installed? How many miles on the car? By the looks of those 2 videos, you need a whole front end rebuild!
3 questions...Seems so...
Today I'm replacing the lower and upper ball joints...
1. Do the ball joints need to be pressed in ?
2. Will I need two jacks for this job ?
Figured as much...this is going to be costly...You'll have to look and see if there're bolts holding the ball joints in. If there are, no need to press fit.
You only need 1 jack however, I would hold off on ball joint installation. Your upper control arm bushings are shot and need to be replaced. Probably your lowers too. The control arms need to be removed, old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in. After that's done, then you can replace your ball joints........along with everything else.
Well my upper control arm bushings are shot anyways...and I also don't have a grinder or air hammer to break the rivets...They’re riveted and not welded on.
grind the heads off and then bolt the new ones in place.
in your pics I fail to see the safety chain needed to keep that big coil spring from exiting.