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Suspension Inspections

1385 Views 57 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Betterdays, 
Tynan918
Passenger side isn't so bad, but I'm concerned with the driver's side. That lower ball joint looks done for.



I'm also concerned with the grease points on the whole suspension, well some of them are flat and I'm unsure if they're worn...


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Tynan918
Can the grease points be clogged ? Even if I'm pushing down on the hose to give it a better seal, I get this scenario...
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Tynan918
Well I popped the balls and springs loose in all zerks. They take quite a bit of pressure to compress. I also used one hand to hold the grease gun with pressure and straight...still got the same results...

I believe most of the rubber boots on these points are torn.

I ended up buying this front end suspension kit and will either replace everything or...more than likely replace everything, who am I kidding ?


I also bought a locking coupler nozzle for my grease gun.
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Tynan918
I need a tool to pull both the ball joints and pitman arms, should this tool pull them or will i need 2 different sizes ?
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Tynan918
evintho said:
That's more of a pitman arm puller. You need pickle forks and a BFH to separate ball joints and tie rod ends. AutoZone has 'em in their tool rental program. Shouldn't cost you a dime!

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Bought these...
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Tynan918
Racer-X- said:
Pickle forks are fine for parts you're planning to replace. But they tend to tear boots. They aren't for anything you want to reuse.

For tie rod ends you want to reuse, this type of puller is the ticket.


And @Tynan918 , to check upper and lower ball joints, you can put the wheel on, run the lugs down snug to tight grab at 12 and 6 and push/pull back and forth. Try to do this while looking at the upper and lower ball joints. If there's a lot of clunking and play that you can see is in those ball joints, they're worn and probably could stand to be replaced.

The official test is to try to pry them up and see how much up and down play there is. But the official published specification for "worn out" is usually way more play than I'd want to have in those parts. GM doesn't like replacing ball joints under warranty, so "safe" and "within spec" extends way past what I'd call "worn out."
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My tie rod ends are good as far as I can tell by comparing a new one to mine, bushings look good, but the driver's side ball joints were bad by the look, especially the lower ball joint.

So I only bought upper and lower ball joints to replace them all...


I also bought zerk inserts and a locking coupler nozzle for my grease gun...
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Tynan918
evintho said:
Apparently, you like spending money. AutoZone or O'Reilly's would have let you use them for free.
To each, his own.
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Yea, but with a down payment much more than what I paid on Amazon, plus Amazon returns are just the same as loaning it from Autozone or O'Reilly's..

I may just keep things to use later on or for someone else.
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Tynan918
Racer-X- said:
You checked the tie rods for play? They aren't worn?

The condition of the rubber boots isn't an indication that they're "good." And a very worn, loose and wobbly tie rod end that's been will maintained looks similar on the outside to a brand new one. But if it's worn, it'll have a lot of play in it when you try to move the wheel.

To check tie rods, idler arm and other steering components, install the wheel and grab and 9 and 3 and push/pull like you're trying to turn the wheel on the steering axis. It should stay solid if the steering wheel is locked and doesn't move. It might move slighly if the steering lock allows movement of the steering wheel. But if it moves more than a very small amount, or if you have someone/something hold the steering wheel completely still and the wheel still moves on the steering axis, you've got worn steering parts. You have to look at the joints and parts individually as you're moving the wheel to see which ones have excess play and are moving. Or if they're really bad, you might hear the worn piece(s) clunking when the wheel moves.
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I'll do this in a moment.

Today I got the locking grease gun coupler and tried to put grease in the zerks. The lower ball joint boots didn't spill grease out indicating the boot is torn. All the others, the boots are torn and grease spills out from them.

Passenger side...


Driver side


There's also this bar that has 2 zerks I can't reach with the locking grease gun nozzle...



What are all these parts called, so I can find and buy replacements ?
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Tynan918
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Tynan918
Tynan918 said:
What are all these parts called, so I can find and buy replacements ?
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Tynan918
I found the excessive play...why would the center/drag link have this much play ?

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Tynan918
Was told to inspect my control arm bushing too...
youtube.com

Upper Control Arm Bushings Inspection - 84 Monte Carlo

youtube.com youtube.com
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Tynan918
So far it seems I need to replace my whole front end, except the control arms themselves...which I'm considering on replacing as well as the front and rear shocks and struts...go ahead and secure the whole suspension and steering linkage parts.
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Tynan918
evintho said:
Are all the nuts tight? Cotter pins installed? How many miles on the car? By the looks of those 2 videos, you need a whole front end rebuild!
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Seems so...

Today I'm replacing the lower and upper ball joints...

2 questions:

1. Do the ball joints need to be pressed in ?

2. Will I need two jacks for this job ?
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Tynan918
Tynan918 said:
Seems so...

Today I'm replacing the lower and upper ball joints...

2 questions:

1. Do the ball joints need to be pressed in ?

2. Will I need two jacks for this job ?
Click to expand...
3 questions...

3. Does the outer tie rod need to be disconnected to remove the ball joints ?
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Tynan918
evintho said:
You'll have to look and see if there're bolts holding the ball joints in. If there are, no need to press fit.
You only need 1 jack however, I would hold off on ball joint installation. Your upper control arm bushings are shot and need to be replaced. Probably your lowers too. The control arms need to be removed, old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in. After that's done, then you can replace your ball joints........along with everything else.
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Figured as much...this is going to be costly...

I'll shoot more video of the lower control arm bushings to show you guys their condition...
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Tynan918
Upper ball joints seem to be welded...I'm going to have to replace the upper control arms now...🤦🏾‍♂️
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Tynan918
If I'm going to put in the work of replacing the whole front end, particularly the upper and lower control arms, then I would like to get the lightweight tubular type rather than the bulky stock ones...


Besides look and lightweight, what are the pros and cons of these type of control arms ?

Installation issues ?
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Tynan918
RWENUTS said:
They’re riveted and not welded on.
grind the heads off and then bolt the new ones in place.
in your pics I fail to see the safety chain needed to keep that big coil spring from exiting.
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Well my upper control arm bushings are shot anyways...and I also don't have a grinder or air hammer to break the rivets...

I might as well prepare for a whole suspension and front end rebuild. I'm going to replace it all at once.
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Tynan918
Okay I bought a compressor and a hammer gun to remove the upper ball joints.

I bought a new center link, inner tie rods, lower and upper ball joints, and upper control arm bushings.

I also bought pickle fork ball joint and tie rod separators and ball joint compressor tool.

Everything should be here by the 6th or 7th of this month.
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