[eric32]

Hello guys I just am in the process of changing out my transmission mount on my 96 chevy s10 which has a turbo 350 in it along with a small block chevy build and I am using the factory crossmember for my turbo 350 and to mount my th350 all that was done was a steel plate that was welded to the crossmember pointing towards the front of the engine for the transmission mount. While changing my mount and having a heck of a time with room and stuff I thought of an aftermarket transmission crossmember and I found one from Trans Dapt and it says bolt in installation.

My question is has anyone used one of these before and how would they just bolt in to the frame? Do transmission crossmembers bolts have nuts on the back of them or is there access areas in the frame to get to nuts that would hold the bolts tight? Below is what I was looking at getting to have more room and a better fit. Thanks guys for any input.

Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9718 Trans-Dapt Performance Crossmembers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Trans-Dapt Performance Crossmembers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Transmission Crossmembers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[BogiesAnnex1]

The problem I have with this Trans Adapt is no relief for the exhaust system. If your suspension is stock height or raised not a problem, if your truck is lowered then that is a problem.

Bogie

 

[eric32]

Nah its all stock factory and I will take a photo tomorrow so you can see how its setup wise. Are you using one on your s10 Bogie? How do those things install with just bolts? Do they just go through the entire frame by chance. Thanks for your input and will post a photo tomorrow when I go to bolt my mount on the tranny.

 

[eric32]

Well I looked at my crossmember last night and it would be a breeze to take off no problem. I have access holes from the side to get at all the nuts that hold the bolts tight and the driver side has three bolts that go all the way from the bottom to the top of the frame and same easier deal there. I might get that crossmember if it will work to clean up things and also be a better deal setup wise. It sure as heck would make changing my mount easier since it used on without a stud in it and it would basically be a slide through deal and just taking the bolts out and not have to jack up my tranny all the way to clear my stud on the mount. All I have to do is get one and line up and see if it will work.

 

[2001Blazer4x4]

That crossmember looks like it uses all the stock mounting points. Where does your exhaust run past your old crossmember? As Bogie pointed out, there may be interference of exhaust with this new crossmember.

Why not just use a transmission mount without the stud. Bolt or stud - same once tightened.

I'm using original 4.3 crossmember in my 89 S10. Mine has 3" lowering springs in rear so I use a 3/4" spacer from JTR on the trans mount to raise the rear of the trans and keep the driveline angle correct.

Might be a good time to look at the engine install.

Biggest problem with most S10 V8 swaps is that the stock oil pan does not really fit in the chassis and people end up raising the front of the engine too far to clear the pan. This causes header clearance problems at the steering shaft, driver's a-arm, and passenger side firewall - as well as transmission to trans tunnel interference and tipped-to-the-rear fuel bowls on the carb. For the typical S10 swap mounts you need to use the second set of through-bolt holes and grind off the tabs for the first. When I re-did mine (originally bought as a swapped S10) I used the Milodon S10 swap pan and oil pickup and slosh baffle and windage tray, along with the JTR front mounts, a 3/4" JTR spacer, and a generic Poly trans mount.

If you want to investigate angles, I find a free app called Clinometer (Android) to be very useful. For a quick check of engine position, look at the difference in your valve cover angle (or top of the heads) vs the driveshaft. 1-2 Degrees up on the rear of the engine (in comparison to driveshaft) is generally what you want (depends on rear ujoint angle).

 

[eric32]

2001blazer I just yesterday came across a mount that takes a bolt and does not have that dang stud in place which would make it a whole lot easier to replace the mount and I thought about that this morning while going over things. I will get a photo and post what it looks like underneath and stuff and I am kind of concerned it might not clear but once I show the photos you might be able to kind of see. What is nice about the other crossmember it allows me to use two bolts while mine just used one bolt and I think the two bolts holding it down would be better then the one but I don't know as I am new to transmission stuff for the most part.

I will be having my Father take my engine out here soon to put my new 350 in place and while he is doing that he is taking my tail shaft housing off and he is going to repair the threads in the housing as there not torquing down and can just get only 6 ftlbs on the bolts lol which ain't jack for holding something in place. One romp I am sure the threads will pull out which I don't plan on doing. Here shortly I will post and get it posted later this afternoon. When you will see the photos you will see why I want to change it.

 

[eric32]

 

[eric32]

Sorry about the mess but I need to get my transmission pan gasket changed and the fluid cause it leaks and its everywhere. I took as many angles as I could and I think there is a high chance the crossmember will hit my exhaust on the very top part and I sure as heck don't want to take my truck to an exhaust shop and spend a hundred bucks plus just to put this thing in. I thought that I could just take a cut off wheel and cut just some of that factory mount down some by the mount to get better access with my fingers on just the passenger side as on the driver side I can get at it no problem.

And with the other mount I could just pretty much slide it in and align it up and bolt it down and be done with it. I don't think my exhaust sits low enough. I took yard stick and put it flat with my frame and around the spot where the transdapt unit might start to go straight across and it would be so very close and I would hate to buy one and it not clear and have to ship it back. Most places are in very low stock and I am kind of in a tough spot and am on the fence should I just get it before somebody gets out of stock and with the whole covid thing it could be forever before anybody gets stuff in stock again or maybe never, who knows.

I think at this point my best option is just to get the different mount and fix my transmission housing and then cut a notch of some of the old factory crossmember off so I can get my passenger side bolt that goes to the transmission housing in a lot easier. One thing I noticed though is the mount does not sit straight with the crossmember but at a slight angle which you can see in the photos and I am assuming that is not good. But engine is bolted with the same mounts that are the 2.8 v6 ones and the trans dapt swap kit that was already installed with a 350 vortec and an old 700r4 transmission when I got the truck and it mounted to the factory hole location.

 

[eric32]

Ok I did not include the photo where the mount is at a slight angle. I would have to get a new photo of it later on.