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If you can find one they are very expensive as I believe they are not real interchangeable. The beaarings go bad in those and are fairly simple to replace. I have done several. The kit cost from ac delco was about 90 bucks and had everything but the crush collar. It is a messy job and is definately something that is easier on a lift. If you need to change the inner pinion bearing I believe it requires a press. The best price I could get on a junk yard rear was 850 and you will eventually have the same issue.


bgreen63366 said:
I have a 99 Tahoe open diff. which is going out. Anyone know what years interchange? Pickups, tahoe's GMC's, etc. Want to do brake to brake.

Thanks,
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tahoe Differential Interchangeability

Thanks for the reply T-bucket23, That's the price that I have found during my search. The diff that I have now has a bunch of play in the pinion. It has been like this long enough that I think there may be damage to the housing so I am thinking about replacing the whole thing.
 

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Try www.car-part.com someone may have what you need for reasonable..Might even find a posi for that..Up date..there are 13 different possibilities of rear ends for that truck..depending on options from the factory..Price is all over the map depending on is it a locker..does it have abs and just what gears are in it..

Sam
 

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Play in the pinion does not mean something is damaged with the housing. Put it up on jack stands and take it apart and investigate. You may just need a ring and pinion and bearings. Certainly a lot cheaper than replacing the entire assembly and running into the same problem.

Vince
 

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The last one we did also had a lot of play and sounded awfull. After we changed all the bearings it was like new. I think the only thing that didnt come in the bearing kit was the crush collar. All that holds the pinion stable is the bearings. I am guessing it is making a lot of noise. Just make sure you clean out all the crap form the diff case so you wont be doing it agin soon. Mark everthing like bearing caps do they go back on the proper side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hums like crazy. I have had to replace the diff cover gasket several times, it wears itself loose and leaks gear oil. I ran it low too long once, been humming ever since. Thanks for the help. I think I will try and do this myself. I appreciate the tips.
 

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bgreen63366 said:
Hums like crazy. I have had to replace the diff cover gasket several times, it wears itself loose and leaks gear oil. I ran it low too long once, been humming ever since. Thanks for the help. I think I will try and do this myself. I appreciate the tips.
Its not hard, just a messy job. The owner of the shop I work part time at has a Tahoe and his was the first we did, we have done several since. I could not believe the prices for a bone yard rear end. The whole thing only takes a couple hours or so. Make sure you change the axel seals while you are in there and be sure not to loose the shims for the pinion. The procedure is fairly simple. You need to pull the spider gear shaft out after removing the lock screw, push the axels in and remove the c-clips, a magnet stick is real handy for this. Pull the axels out, be ready some oil may leak out of the axel tubes, dont get it on the brakes. We usually put a clean rag in the hole. Remove the carrier end caps after marking them. Remove the carrier assembly and inspect the bearings and races. Next remove the pinion nut and yoke and outer bearing. The pinion should then slide out of the case from the side where you removed the carrier. The bearing that is on the shaft is usually a press on so you will need someone to press it off and the new one on if you dont have a press. Dont cheap out, change all the bearings while you have it apart. The only tricky thing when putting it back together sometimes is getting the spiders lined back up. Keep lots of rags handy as it is a messy job
 

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bgreen63366 said:
Looking on Autozone's website for a rebuild kit. Doesn't look as though they offer one. Would you guys have an idea of what parts I would need?
napa has the kits I believe. I think the ones we had were from the AC Delco line from a local distributor. If you cant find a kit, you should be able to get the numbers off the bearings after you get it apart. GM also may have a kit but it probably will be expensive.
I will see if I can get a part # for the kit we used.

Here is a link to a similar kit, Summit, Jegs and several others have them. Some call them installation kits or rebuild kits Autozone probably wont have one and if they did the quality would probably be questionable.
Summit
Another
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is this an acurate parts list?

NAPA
Gasket
Dif. Bearing x2
Dif. Bearing Cone x2
Dif. Bearing Cup x2
Pinion Bearing
Pinion Bearing Cone
Pinion Bearing Cup
Pinion Bearing Spacer
Pinion Seal
Wheel Bearing x2
wheel bearing seals x2

All this is about $135.00 from Napa. Sounds a whole lot cheaper than the alternative.
 

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I think you are missing 1 pinion bearing and I dont understand what the cone cup stuff is. But yes the list looks fairly complete. basically for every bearing you need a race, some come withthem some dont. Just make sure you can bring back any extra stuff.
 

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Looks like the cup is what would normally be called the race and the cone is the actual bearing. So I think you may have a few extra parts on there. Keep in mind also you will have to drive out the old races and drive in teh new ones. Its not hard you just need a punch with a good flat end. You can use the old races to drive the new ones in most of the way, finish them with a brass punch so you dont ding them. We always pack the new bearings to pre lube them, you can also just soak them first. Assuming napa is not far from you, get everything and return the extra. The only thing that can be difficult is the crush collar, they call it the spacer. I would make sure it is in stock before you start. It takes a lot of torque to tighten the pinoin nut to crush the crush collar. A pipe wrench is a good choice to hold the yoke while tightening the nut with a breaker bar or torque wrench. There should be a little drag when you are done. I think the spec is something like 17 inch pounds. This relates to a little drag. There should be no slop when you are done. Im sure if you search the internet there are some articles on this that are illustrated.

Good luck
 
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