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Sloe Lurner
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193 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm at the last stages of install of a TCI MustangII IFS here is my problem. The instructions are really something to be desired, a waste of paper in my opinion. We trail fit the rack in place before cutting the notch in frame, we decided to move the notch 1" farther forward than the directions specify. even after this we had to remove the rack mounting bracket and raise them approx 3/8" to get the steering box the clear the crossmember. The kit came with two 5/8 spacer that will move the rack way to far forward. DO I have to use these spacers?? And the biggest problem I am going to have it the motor mounts. They are supposed to mount right in front of the steering shaft. can anybody give me some advise/help??
 

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What engine are you using? Small block Chevy?

I fabbed my own donut mounts for my hemi and welded them to the inside of the crossmember on each side. The steering cleared with just a little grinding on one side of the gusset for the mount.
 

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Sloe Lurner
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193 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks

Yea Centerline. I'm going with a 350/350 combo. The IFS kit with the whole front end and tranny crossmember and motormounts. It came from CCP out of california. I wish I would have got it from Tims out of Oregon he has been alot more help than anyone. These motor mounts

It will be close i might have to trim a little off the bottom edge of the bracket i know the top piece will have to be trimmed back on each side to get the engine where i need it to be?? This is my first MustII IFS. hate the learning curve :evil: :drunk: :smash:
 

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Lost in the 50s!
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Off-topic: Whoever welded that did a nice job! :thumbup:

A lot of the time when I see pics of the welding people do on suspension swaps I cringe. :nono:
 

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Looks like it shouldn't be all that tough. Just a little trimming so you can get them positioned where they need to be.
 

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Looks to be a `33 chevy frame, if it were me, I`d bolt the mounts up to a block support in to place and see how far back the mounts need to be cut, looks as if the steering will clear with a steering universal put in place, actually two one off the column thru a straight shaft to the rack spline, just below the motor mount....
 

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Rick 5150 69 said:
Looks to be a `33 chevy frame....
I believe it's a 47-54 Chevy pickup frame. Just like the one under my 53.
 

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Sloe Lurner
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193 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
54 chevy

Yea it's 54 chevy 5 window 1/2 ton. After thinking about one of the problems i'm having im wondering if the kit is made for a manual rack. i'm having a hard time getting this one to fit.
 

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DV8 said:
Yea it's 54 chevy 5 window 1/2 ton. After thinking about one of the problems i'm having im wondering if the kit is made for a manual rack. i'm having a hard time getting this one to fit.
I believe Ford had two different power racks, one built by Ford and the other was a TRW unit if I'm not mistaken. There might be small differences between the uniits that might be causing your problem. I'd call the manufacturer and ask which one the unit was designed for and explain your problem. TCI has a decent reputation and should be able to help you out easily. If you're having problems with the rack hitting the crossmember you can just trim the sectons of the crossmember that are in the way. That section of the crossmember was where the front engine mount on the old stovebolt 6 was attached so you're not going to use it anyway. Now the front have of that crossmember mounts the radiator support so just make sure you don't cut the whole crossmember out.
 

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I have a 52 pickup in progress and put in the TCI Mustang II with the power rack and an LT1 350 with auto; you are right, their instructions suck. I think their instructions are for a manual rack. I saw everything was not going together as the instructions stated and called Hart Rods www.hartrods.com (the company where I bought the IFS). They install these kits and were very helpful; told me exactly what I needed to do. The 5/8" spacer pushes the rack out far enough to clear the cross member (but your idea of rising the tabs seems good) and you have to adjust the notch in the frame to fit. You are probably going to find it difficult getting the springs in and the truck setting at the correct height. Before you start cutting the springs make sure you have all the front end weight on the truck. I had to cut about 1.5 coil off to get the control arms level the way they should be. You may also have difficulty with your steering linkage based on the header/exhaust you choose. You have more exhaust options than me, but it is a tight fit for the engine, exhaust and steering between those frame rails. I ended up making up my own motor mounts. Good luck and have fun.
 

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steering/motor mount clearance

HAD A THOUGHT ABOUT THE ENGINE MOUNT MODIFICATION.

Will Engine torque/flex be a factor when (or if) you cut a slot or a hole in the motor mount..?? oversizing the hole and doubling up on the plate thickness may not be a bad idea...

I like the idea of putting a couple of universal joins with maybe one or two small pillow blocks to stiffen the whole thing up, while making it "roll" nice.
 

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Sloe Lurner
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Discussion Starter #12
how much??

How much could i trim off the brace on this mount without worrying about it?? Personally I'd rather not trim any. I'm planning on putting the engine & tranny in this weekend to get an idea of where these will mount up. One side note. I did get the missing harware from TCI in less than a week. I really like working with Tim!! :thumbup:
 
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