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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was looking at getting 3000-35000 stahl for the old th350. Got a stock stahl right now so its pretty turdy out of the hole. Was lookin at the jegs brand 3500ish stahl for just over 200bux. Was just wondering if there is really a big difference in quality in the tci's or b&m's vs. the cheaper jegs converters? I immagine some name brand company makes the jegs converters for jegs. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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There is no comparison in torque converters with price being your main guide.
You get what you pay for and NOTHING more. Cheap gets you disappointed, and then you buy more parts. I strongly recommend you contact a RACE trans shop or converter guy and give them all the specs on your car. Too many times I have had someone tell me the converter they thought they needed, only to find out their specs were way off, rear gear was wrong, cam or ignition timing was wrong....Mostly they thought that their friends idea would work.
Camshaft, torque converter and rear gear must match and be spec'd together. Anything less is going to bring disappointment at sometime......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have read that a large number of converter companies have their converters made by the same place. I always used to hear the rumor of people having the job of "converter painter" at the manufacturer. I have even read it on this forum. Is there any truth behind this?
 

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scapegoat said:
I have read that a large number of converter companies have their converters made by the same place. I always used to hear the rumor of people having the job of "converter painter" at the manufacturer. I have even read it on this forum. Is there any truth behind this?

the company I work for builds it's own converters... for over 35 years
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can I get some input on some converter brands and peoples experiences with whatever brands they have used? I would really like to go with a quality converter regardless of the price.
 

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I have used Continental (very good). Behind a twin turbo BB Chevy.
I have a race TCI (very good). Behind a 1200hp BB Chevy.
A friend has an ATI (very good). Behind a 700hp Pontiac.
I would stay away from a shelf type convertor. They should be custom made to your cars specs.
 

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you are dancing all around and have provided no needed info such as your build gear ratio hp etc. If you think it is turdy now put a high stall converter in it and you will be really disapointed. The whole purpose of the higher stall converter is to absorb the horsepower without sitting there burning off the tires. The high stall converter harnesses that power and startes tyou moving and begins it's lockup as you are moving and not sitting there frying the hides. To go to a 33-35 thous stall converter you better have very stout gears and a decent amount of HP or you are peeing in the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
here you go...91' s10 short box single cab 355sbc 882heads 10:1 compression 274duration 450lift flat tappet cam. performer rpm airgap 750proform hp carb 1 5/8 headers. Th350 tranny stock converter. Ford 9" rear 350 gears with tracklock. This is my second v8s10 that I have built. I am not worried about the truck being a turd. The last one I built had a stock converter and was very powerful. But it was a little slow out of the hole. I just want to launch a little harder. The truck will weigh under #3000 so it is light.
 

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scapegoat said:
here you go...91' s10 short box single cab 355sbc 882heads 10:1 compression 274duration 450lift flat tappet cam. performer rpm airgap 750proform hp carb 1 5/8 headers. Th350 tranny stock converter. Ford 9" rear 350 gears with tracklock. This is my second v8s10 that I have built. I am not worried about the truck being a turd. The last one I built had a stock converter and was very powerful. But it was a little slow out of the hole. I just want to launch a little harder. The truck will weigh under #3000 so it is light.

Contact a leading performance converter company.

Hughes Performance

TCI

BTE

talk to some friends if they have performance converters.

A quality converter to function as you need is not cheap.

**** luck.

:cool:
 

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that combo should be good for about 350-400 hp at least with the 3:50 gears and a tire dia mated to give you the true 3:50 gear ratio ( remember smaller dia or larger dia tires will change your effective gear ratio) i would suggest about a 2800-3000 converter no more with the 3:50 gears. Call a quality converter company and give them all your specs including HP tire size gear size and the weight of the truck and double check is your best bet. I have a 70 olds 355 with 10-1 with the 350 trans with 3:42 gears and it weighs about 3800 lbs and i launch just right with very little tire spin with a 2500 stall holeshot converter and without it wuld just sit and burn which is wasted motion. You may benifit from steeper gears about 3:73 ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would like to go to a 411 gear eventually. I rarely cruise at freewayspeeds and would like the extra low end power with the 411 gear. I was thinking a 3000-3500 converter would work well. Thats what I was originaly thinking but was wondering if the stall speed was a little high for my setup. In the future the truck will only get more motor. I will hopefully be building a little stouter smallblock, 383ci or so.
 

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KRUZR said:
http:/www.racingconverters.com Check out Neal Chance.......they sell you what you need .They use all yours specs and will set you up a match,I put one in my buds 57 Chev and one in his 55Chev dragster (now sold).They might be a bit pricier but xcellent quality.A phone call won't hurt to ask questions
I'll vouch for everything that KRUZR said, and add that Marty (Neal' son) is a hell of a nice guy and likes to help. If you get the chance, talk to Marty. I've been to their shop, asked about one of their hats, and he gave me a handfull. I have two of their bolt togethers. One is an eight inch, the other a ten inch aluminum for a pro-mod, that I bought used with a Dedenbear glide. The converter didn't stall high enough behind my NA 606, and Marty told my son to change two shims and BINGO! Perfect. Also, the input on the glide was slightly twisted and Marty said that, behind a big inch engine a new one will do that and take a set, so don't waste money on another one.
 

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buzzbomb said:
you are dancing all around and have provided no needed info such as your build gear ratio hp etc. If you think it is turdy now put a high stall converter in it and you will be really disapointed. The whole purpose of the higher stall converter is to absorb the horsepower without sitting there burning off the tires. The high stall converter harnesses that power and startes tyou moving and begins it's lockup as you are moving and not sitting there frying the hides. To go to a 33-35 thous stall converter you better have very stout gears and a decent amount of HP or you are peeing in the wind.
I always thought that you needed a stall for the rpm band in the cam. Like if you had a cam that started making power at 3200rpm wouldn't you need a stall that would stall enough till you get to that rpm to launch? Here is another question ,I recently purchased a stall that advertised 3500rpm ,I put it behind 350-400hp motor and the tires spin at 1500, I am on dirt trying to stall this thing,have not made it to the strip yet. Now why want it stall? The man I purchased it from says by back brakes need to be adjusted,could it be a bad tranny? I don't think so. Some say its my timing,some tell me I don't have the horse power or that it want stall that high without a trans brake.any answers?
 

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You can't bring a convertor up to its stall speed without a transbrake. You may be able to flash it up there, but you sure won't be able to do it in dirt. I have a 6000 stall convertor in my car and I can't get it past 300 rpm on the foot brake.

Also, trying to stall a convertor builds a lot of heat in the trans.
 

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A transbrake applies first and reverse, so that driveshaft will not turn untill you let go of the button. When you try to foot brake it, you are holding the power back with your brakes.

Try this; pump up the brakes, hold it down as hard as you can, and floor the gas pedal quickly. You will see it flash up close to the actual stall of the convertor.
 
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