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I played with the 94 for a bit being very careful not to break bolts.
Pulled the driveshaft, the bolts holding the transmission to the cross member, one of the engine bolts leaving just one engine bolt holding the engine and trans in place. Cut the exhaust down as well as the parking cable.

I hear this chirping sound over in the corner of the garage as I am under the truck which freaked me out. I am expecting a baby racoon or something.







Hear is what I killed a hour looking for.


I released it out by the shed.
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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16,296 Posts
Seriously ???!!! I know you were pissed, but why didn't you advertise it in your local paper and sell it for the cost of material, at least ? Someone may have had an use for it.
Each one is sooooo unique, there is zero chance of that.

Brian
 

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Grand Prix user
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5,344 Posts
Hey, I uh...

wait a sec, something in my eye here. snif. ahem...

I FINISHED THE DOORS!

Whoa man. And the cab except pan and firewall prep / install. Heavy. I'm about as happy as I get. :D

Six pinholes I welded up, plus other tiny uglies. 2-3 more passes with the puller, more spoon reacharound but not enough to re-destroy arms. And satisfaction has been achieved. I am pleased all the way, with what I have done. Willing to set it next to anybody's same thing. As it should always be. This had me wondering for a minute.

Most telling pics I have:

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The doors fit and work with the greatest of ease. Total bodyman high. Just ah. Needed that.

Our always hungry writing spider built another web a little closer to me but it may get tore down when I reach for the old fenders, for tubs, and move that bed. I have faith it will survive. Grown quite a bit but they get big as your hand so it ain't done.

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So... I get to change gears and may have a sportin' chance at awesome. Thats what the owner said it would be if he sees a whole truck Friday AM. Now I can think, and need to. :)
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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2,225 Posts
Wow, I worked at Centerline Tuesday and wrote up a big post about that, but I don't see it here. Must have done the review and then closed the page...again. Anyway, I R&R'd the lower control arms on a '70 SS Chevelle. Owner claims it is a high end restoration and it looks it sitting on the ground. The front suspension/steering was all original, well, except for the 4 new cotter pins in the ball joints where the disc brakes were swapped on to look original... ;) Lower bushings were trash and 1 ball joint was a little loose, so got replaced too.
Best thing I brought away from that was a new tool. I knew the bolts would be seized in the sleeves, and they were. We have a long barrel air chisel and blunt driver to break them loose but it's always a trick keeping the driver on the bolt. I found a new driver in the shop owners tool box that is recessed to stay on the bolt and not slide off !! What a treat ! Even having to hold the gun at an angle to access the bolt, the driver stayed on and hammered it loose in seconds...:D This one had came from the Matco dealer, who retired last month, so I got Snappy to order 1 for me. That was a major time, and frustration, saver for jobs like this and I will enjoy having it in my personal arsenal at home.
No pics, so no proof I did this, so it's all just make believe...except for the bruises on my hand where the wrench slipped. In my younger days that would only have left a red mark for a couple hours and been gone. Now I seem to bruise easily and they last for days. This getting old crap sucks. I think I would bruise now, if someone hit me with a feather duster...:(
 

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Grand Prix user
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Oh, nifty... unboxed the smoothie running boards just now. I gotta make that "not noticeable" on top of everything else.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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1,026 Posts
I am still getting ready to replace the flange or "Hood Shelf on the T. I got the cowl trimmed and the new pieces cut and rolled ready to weld back in. I have been looking at my options to weld it in and I see 3 possible ways to install this strip. I can rosette weld on the top or on the bottom or weld the seam where the 2 pieces meet. I am going to seam seal this thing and add new wadding so it should cover any outside welds after grinding smooth. I am adding a crude drawing showing my options and I would like some opinions on if this will work or not. Let me know if one method is better than any other and why? Thanks in advance Oh remember I am not a professional doing this so I may have missed some ways of doing this. :cool:

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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4,705 Posts
I am still getting ready to replace the flange or "Hood Shelf on the T. I got the cowl trimmed and the new pieces cut and rolled ready to weld back in. I have been looking at my options to weld it in and I see 3 possible ways to install this strip. I can rosette weld on the top or on the bottom or weld the seam where the 2 pieces meet. I am going to seam seal this thing and add new wadding so it should cover any outside welds after grinding smooth. I am adding a crude drawing showing my options and I would like some opinions on if this will work or not. Let me know if one method is better than any other and why? Thanks in advance Oh remember I am not a professional doing this so I may have missed some ways of doing this. :cool:

View attachment 523945
a drawing of how the firewall fits into this mix would help. So far, from what I see, you could have just butt welded a flat strip in to get the same result.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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4,705 Posts
I pulled the trigger on these: clicky here

Should arrive within eight to ten weeks.
 

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I will endevour to persevere
Joined
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1,026 Posts
I am still getting ready to replace the flange or "Hood Shelf on the T. I got the cowl trimmed and the new pieces cut and rolled ready to weld back in. I have been looking at my options to weld it in and I see 3 possible ways to install this strip. I can rosette weld on the top or on the bottom or weld the seam where the 2 pieces meet. I am going to seam seal this thing and add new wadding so it should cover any outside welds after grinding smooth. I am adding a crude drawing showing my options and I would like some opinions on if this will work or not. Let me know if one method is better than any other and why? Thanks in advance Oh remember I am not a professional doing this so I may have missed some ways of doing this. :cool:

View attachment 523945
Ok this is a terrible drawing but I added the firewall and I tried to show how the firewall edges are not straight so a flat piece won't work. the firewall edges are slanted and there the firewall meets the original firewall is not bad fit but because of the taper it fits perfect at the outer edge. I plan to weld the edges together if possible. So here is the revised drawing..:oops:

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Oh yeah I want the shelf where the wadding sets to be pretty level so thats why the step..
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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4,705 Posts
The step and rosette welds do nothing but induce more heat into the works. You're still welding the seam. So why the extra work and material?
Using the shrinker stretchers will get any strip the correct shape if the lip is on a slope.
 
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I pulled the trigger on these: clicky here

Should arrive within eight to ten weeks.
How come? Problems with existing parts or preference or a mix? I don't guess theres a frameless conversion kit, eh?
 

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Grand Prix user
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5,344 Posts
I am still getting ready to replace the flange or "Hood Shelf on the T. I got the cowl trimmed and the new pieces cut and rolled ready to weld back in. I have been looking at my options to weld it in and I see 3 possible ways to install this strip. I can rosette weld on the top or on the bottom or weld the seam where the 2 pieces meet. I am going to seam seal this thing and add new wadding so it should cover any outside welds after grinding smooth. I am adding a crude drawing showing my options and I would like some opinions on if this will work or not. Let me know if one method is better than any other and why? Thanks in advance Oh remember I am not a professional doing this so I may have missed some ways of doing this. :cool:

View attachment 523945

Quick answer (been a long day) is look at #4 and #8 on my sketch.

If theres a spare moment tonight I'll give it a whirlygig. Been doing friend stuff, IDJ evening chores just getting started.

Mission accomplished at work today. :)
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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2,225 Posts
Ok this is a terrible drawing but I added the firewall and I tried to show how the firewall edges are not straight so a flat piece won't work. the firewall edges are slanted and there the firewall meets the original firewall is not bad fit but because of the taper it fits perfect at the outer edge. I plan to weld the edges together if possible. So here is the revised drawing..:oops:

View attachment 523946

Oh yeah I want the shelf where the wadding sets to be pretty level so that's why the step..
The easiest method to attach the strip would be to drill 1/4" holes in the cowl and plug weld thru them to the strip. How many holes would depend on the purpose. If it is going to hold weight, more welds, maybe every 1.5" . If not a structural component, stretch the wleds out to 2-2.25" spacing.
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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2,225 Posts
Another day at Centerline and another save. They started a '02 Passat job on Tuesday and abandoned it for me to finish today. Motor mounts and right tie rods. What a POS engineered car. Gawd I hate Passats.
BUT, I earned some money for the shop upgrade...:cool:
 

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I will endevour to persevere
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1,026 Posts
IDJ,
I think you have a handle on what I want to do. Because there may never be a hood I am not to worried about strength as when everything is put together it will be strong enough to hold a Cadillac hood. Remember "You ain't lackin when your a cadillacking" I think pugsy doesn't understand exactally how this really fits together. My drawings are very exaggerated The firewall fits tight in the hole and that the extension I am adding is only to bring the hood shelf back to the original width and this shelf replaces all the mangled metal and the ovals that would have needed to be filled. I took the three pieces I welded end to end to make up this replacement piece and hung it on the outside of the lip and then clamped it all around the cowl to give it some initial bend and fit to the shape of the cowl. When I am ready to install it should be fairly easy to get to fit on the inside of the cowl with it somewhat pre bent. I know the angle the firewall meets the cowl looks real steep but it is my lousy drawing. The cowl and firewall are a good match with my strip on the inside and you will never see the angle unless you really look for it up behind the dash. I think I will do the 1/4" holes through the cowl and weld the strip in. If it looks weak in any way I may put a few beads on the seam. Likes Pugsy says I gotta keep the heat to a minimum. Tomorrow I will drill some holes and get ready to weld this bugger back on and move forward!:cool:
 
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