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I finally had someone come to look at the Z-28 this evening. It's been sitting out at the road for over a month with just a couple of short drives to keep fluids circulated and the battery charged. First thing we do is pop the hood, and pull the dipstick to check the oil. Level is good, but there is a drop of milky oil on the end of it. Hmmm... Cranked it over and it starts quick, like usual, and runs as smooth as silk. Filler cap is a little milky underneath, too. I looked down into the valve cover and the oil flowing to the drains in the head is clean, not milky. We run it a little, and take it for a short drive. I checked the oil again after I got it in the garage and it looks fine, no milky stuff at all. I think it's just condensation, but I did go get a combustion gas test kit to verify what's going on. The fun with this car just never ends...

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Having the harness replaced at a dealership is not an option for me..They wanted Just north of $1200 for a new harness and $125 per hour labour to install it with an estimate of 16 hours to replace it could be more if they run into a problem,,My car only has 003241 actual miles i have had it in storage since 2014 and thought i had it protected,,electronic sensors,moth balls .kept a light on ( very important ) from what a local collector tells me,,,i need to clean all the aluminum anyway it looks like someone sprinkled soda on it,,i have to clean it without scratcking the surface of the aluminum or Not make it to shiny,,probably use white vinagar and water in a spray bottle and a sponge,
,My car only has 003241 actual miles i have had it in storage since 2014 and thought i had it protected,,

Should have said since 2004,
 

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I finally had someone come to look at the Z-28 this evening. It's been sitting out at the road for over a month with just a couple of short drives to keep fluids circulated and the battery charged. First thing we do is pop the hood, and pull the dipstick to check the oil. Level is good, but there is a drop of milky oil on the end of it. Hmmm... Cranked it over and it starts quick, like usual, and runs as smooth as silk. Filler cap is a little milky underneath, too. I looked down into the valve cover and the oil flowing to the drains in the head is clean, not milky. We run it a little, and take it for a short drive. I checked the oil again after I got it in the garage and it looks fine, no milky stuff at all. I think it's just condensation, but I did go get a combustion gas test kit to verify what's going on. The fun with this car just never ends...

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I dont think you have anything to worry about,,just drive it until it reaches operating temp. then mabe 15 more minutes or so,,should clear right up..in really cold weather the cars i had on the lot would do same thing ,so i cranked ALL of then a couple times a week if customers hadnt driven them,problem solved.if EGR valve is working properly
 

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I dont think you have anything to worry about,,just drive it until it reaches operating temp. then mabe 15 more minutes or so,,should clear right up..in really cold weather the cars i had on the lot would do same thing ,so i cranked ALL of then a couple times a week if customers hadnt driven them,problem solved.if EGR valve is working properly
Yep, it's good. Blue test fluid stayed blue. The car really has not been driven much in about 2 months or more. I took some video of the testing on my phone for proof, just in case he asks.

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And ??????
Just love to leave you hanging Dad. :D

Had to pick up a new door skin all the way in Windsor, almost 4 hours, each direction.
You can see why on my build thread.
 
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Well, I just figured out why my freebie T-5 was really a 4-speed with two neutrals... looks like a snap ring popped off, allowing the gear on the main shaft to slide back until it just didn't have enough engagement to do the job... I'm pretty sure that JB weld ain't gonna fix this.
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The rest of this thing doesn't look bad. The plastic pads on the shift forks are intact and don't look too worn. I spun the main and countershafts over to look at the gears and I don't see anything funky. It looks like the carnage of 5th gear remnants are contained on the magnet in the bottom of the case. I think I might be able to get by with a basic overhaul kit and a 5th gear set. Since this one is out of a Camaro, I doubt that the S-10 5th gear will work. Anyone know for sure? I have an S-10 trans with a bad input shaft and main shaft wear at the roller bearings.
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I've done a little digging on T5 gear ratios. My busted Camaro 5th gear is 0.63:1, which will make my 3.73 gears into a 2.35 final. The S10 ratio is 0.72:1, making the final drive a 2.68. If I did the math correctly. I think the S10 gears will do fine, if they will fit. Bonus because I already have 'em. Guess I'll be pulling my other T5 down to get them out. I guess I need a press, too.

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I've done a little digging on T5 gear ratios. My busted Camaro 5th gear is 0.63:1, which will make my 3.73 gears into a 2.35 final. The S10 ratio is 0.72:1, making the final drive a 2.68. If I did the math correctly. I think the S10 gears will do fine, if they will fit. Bonus because I already have 'em. Guess I'll be pulling my other T5 down to get them out. I guess I need a press, too.

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The damage to the 2 gears isn't that bad and only occurred because they were barely engaged. How much HP is the engine pushing that you have this in ? You may be fine to use them.
 

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Long story short, I cut off the left quarter skin and rusted outer wheel house sections. I have everything cleaned and ready on the car, but need to remove the EDP from the weld areas on the q-p yet.


Took a while of tweaking, but I got all the body lines in alignment.



The skin goes under the original along the top and the front edge, to preserve the original line and to give me a pattern to match at the door.



The bottom, at the rocker, was a bear. I had to keep moving the flange up with a hammer and dolly to get the skin to drop down enough.

 

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The damage to the 2 gears isn't that bad and only occurred because they were barely engaged. How much HP is the engine pushing that you have this in ? You may be fine to use them.
This trans is going into the '57, which has a very mild 350 in it. The engine is an essentially stock rebuild of a '70 300 HP 350. The cam is probably some sort of RV style, I'll have to dig through receipts to see if I can find the specs. The thought of running them quickly crossed my mind, but I'm afraid that they will continue to break up. I'm going to swap them out for another set. If the S-10 gears fit I'll use them, otherwise I'll keep a lookout on eBay for another set of Camaro gears.
 

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I think the other set will fit the shafts. I can't imagine GM changing the whole trans for a different gear set. It should be like different gear sets interchanging on the same carrier in the rear axle. You won't get as much overdrive with the .72, but it will still be plenty for the cruiser.

Just thought of this, are the cases the same era ? There are the early T-5's and the WC T-5's and they may not interchange. I think the WC's were behind the high output 305 and 350's and the early, standard, trans were behind the V6's most of the entire third/fourth gen production. I'm a little rusty on that, so do some searching.
 

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I've done a little digging on T5 gear ratios. My busted Camaro 5th gear is 0.63:1, which will make my 3.73 gears into a 2.35 final. The S10 ratio is 0.72:1, making the final drive a 2.68. If I did the math correctly. I think the S10 gears will do fine, if they will fit. Bonus because I already have 'em. Guess I'll be pulling my other T5 down to get them out. I guess I need a press, too.

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While you are comparing gear ratios, don't overlook low gear. I have an S-10 behind the flathead in my 36 Roadster. With a 3:70 rear end under the car first gear was so low, it was about useless. I changed it to a 3:25 rear gear and that made low gear much more practical.

John
 

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While you are comparing gear ratios, don't overlook low gear. I have an S-10 behind the flathead in my 36 Roadster. With a 3:70 rear end under the car first gear was so low, it was about useless. I changed it to a 3:25 rear gear and that made low gear much more practical.

John
John, the camaro trans that I'm using has a 2.95 First gear ratio, so I should be good. The Saginaw in it now has like a 3.5 ratio first gear. Doesn't take long to get to the end of 1st right now.

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I think the other set will fit the shafts. I can't imagine GM changing the whole trans for a different gear set. It should be like different gear sets interchanging on the same carrier in the rear axle. You won't get as much overdrive with the .72, but it will still be plenty for the cruiser.

Just thought of this, are the cases the same era ? There are the early T-5's and the WC T-5's and they may not interchange. I think the WC's were behind the high output 305 and 350's and the early, standard, trans were behind the V6's most of the entire third/fourth gen production. I'm a little rusty on that, so do some searching.
The camaro trans is 85ish, and the S-10 trans is from an '89. Both are non WC, so should be good then.

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Bought an organizer a auction this summer for like $1. Bought a box of spraypaint also for $1 at a diffrent one.

527275


I buy sockets (sometimes with toolboxes) at auctions for next to nothing. But having several sets all in one drawer is proving to be a pain no matter how I do it.



So I spent a few hours(mostly waiting paint to dry) playing with this. It will allow me to just grab and throw sockets in the bins having several of the same size without finding five 11mm's when I am looking for one 10mm.

527276


Paint needs to dry completely then I will hang it up with some heavy supports before filling it.
 
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