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Hey, Dave, some of the caps had vent holes in them way back when. It was to prevent condensation. As long as the hole is down low, it should be OK.
The hole I drilled is not for venting. It's so I can see the spark inside to get the cam/crank offset timing set. Apparently there is very little adjustment possible, and you are supposed to use a scanner to set it. You tube university showed how to watch the spark from the rotor to the pin inside, turning the distributor to make the spark as short as possible. I opened up a pretty big hole next to the #5 terminal, so I hope it works. If it does, I'll still have the cap for when I do the intake gaskets on this thing. Both china walls look to be leaking.
This is for my Vortec truck, BTW. I kinda have two projects going right now.
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Collector of "someday" cars
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The hole I drilled is not for venting. It's so I can see the spark inside to get the cam/crank offset timing set.
This is for my Vortec truck, BTW. I kinda have two projects going right now.
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OK, this is starting to make sense now. Had no clue what you were referring to in the first sentence that couldn't be done with a good ole fashioned timing light on the '57... o_O
 

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Put in my body mounts in. Thats all I am doing today on this. Its just to freaking cold and those radient heaters can only do so much when the place is not insulated.

The mounts are 2.5" on the front and 1.5 on the rear which may seem high. But the lowest part of the bottom of the floor is only 1/2" off the frame. The top of the floor(lowest point) is only going to be 1.5" off the frame placing the cab as low as possible.
Right now the highest part of the cab is 67.5" with 26.5" tires.
But I have room to run taller and wider tires if I need to later.
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OK, this is starting to make sense now. Had no clue what you were referring to in the first sentence that couldn't be done with a good ole fashioned timing light on the '57... o_O
Yep, understood. I corn-foosed myself this morning. I thought I posted something about the truck on this thread, but I started a new one over in the fuel injected engine section. I did use a good old fashioned timing light on the 57 before I pulled it down. Maybe I'll get lucky and drop the dizzy back in like I found it...

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The intake is on the 57, and spark has been checked in the truck. I just snugged the bolts on the intake and will let it sit until tomorrow before I pull each bolt back out, seal it, and tighten them down good. I still have fuel line and heater hoses to replace, valve covers to clean and reinstall, and hopefully I can stab the distributor back in without a bunch of drama, but that's for another night. I'll be glad when this is done so I can get back to the 5 speed swap.

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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The intake is on the 57, and spark has been checked in the truck. I just snugged the bolts on the intake and will let it sit until tomorrow before I pull each bolt back out, seal it, and tighten them down good. I still have fuel line and heater hoses to replace, valve covers to clean and reinstall, and hopefully I can stab the distributor back in without a bunch of drama, but that's for another night. I'll be glad when this is done so I can get back to the 5 speed swap.

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There's an easy way to use the distributor itself to turn the oil pump drive until you get the rotor pointing where you want is.
Assuming SBC. If you get it engaged and it's off, just lift up until the gear is disengaged, turn the distributor, drop it back down and it will rotate the pump drive one tooth. Repeat until you're in the correct spot. You can walk it around this way quite quickly, no trying to look down the hole, getting a long screwdriver out.
 

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There's an easy way to use the distributor itself to turn the oil pump drive until you get the rotor pointing where you want is.
Assuming SBC. If you get it engaged and it's off, just lift up until the gear is disengaged, turn the distributor, drop it back down and it will rotate the pump drive one tooth. Repeat until you're in the correct spot. You can walk it around this way quite quickly, no trying to look down the hole, getting a long screwdriver out.
I use a permanent marker to mark the distributor shaft to the intake, the rotor to the distributor base, and the balancer to timing chain cover(if you do not have a pointer) when doing something like a head gasket. If you have a timing pointer then just set the balancer to 0 degrees by hand as a reference.

As long as you do not turn the motor over all you need to do is line up your marks and drop the distributor in. If you try it and the mark from the intake to the distributor shaft is off then you try stabbing it back in again till the tooth falls correct. It usually takes me 2 or 4 times and I do not need to even pull out the timing light.

I adjust the push rods so they are close (hand tight) then run the engine briefly checking the timing (that should have not changed) before checking and adjusting the push rods(that are now oiled) turning the engine over by hand with a screwdriver in the cylinder tightening the intake/exhaust, going 180( screwdriver in 180 degree cylinder) and doing the rest of the valves before doing it a second time just checking by feel.

Between the marks and adjusting the valves by hand I save a good hour and several headaches. Something I would do on a Saturday morning before floating the valves at 6000 rpm driving through some deep mud or "field" drag racing.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Looks good! What flavor of red is that?
Thanks.

It's supposed to be close to Victory Red. GM color. I saw an 07 Vette in this color and thought it was a nice medium dark red.. Not what I have though as we had to match one of two different Victory Reds to the color book that this company has. They only mix their own colors. So, basically, I don't really know what red I have, ha.

The two color samples we used to match up both had the same GM code on the back and they were different. Probably from different paint lines.

That's what one gets for buying cheap paint.
 
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The weather has warmed up a bit. the new shop we decided. to put on my step son's property, 1 1/2 acres is only 1/2 mile from us, a quanset , 45 X 60 with 5 ft concrete walls. . the concrete is cured enough that I can start back filling around the outside walls, someone else will bolt it together, I got a deal on a new 4 post lift. a guy's wife ordered it for her husband's christmas surprise and it was too small for his 4 door truck. it was all put together so we only had to half way take it apart to get it on my trailer. I thought the 24 X 36 garage with 11 ft walls was big enough when we built 10 years ago but the 4 post, my welders, torch drill press, etc . will go in the shop. Then the T bucket project will go to the new shop.
 

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I got the timing fixed in the truck, but the tab for one of the dizzy hold down screws broke off. Dorman makes a "breaker plate" to somewhat fix this, but I'm thinking that it will be a bugger to use. Anybody use one before?

On the 57 front, the intake is finished. All of the bolts are sealed and tight, the dizzy dropped in easy, and I have the coil installed and wired up again. On to the carburetor and fuel line next.
 

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Mmmmm.... Lemon Pie...

The 57 is coming together and is starting to look like a car again. I need to run the valve covers on the buffer to get them cleaned up. Right now I'm fighting the radiator, fan shroud and the a/c condenser, trying to get them mounted. This has been a pain from day one. V8 core support, V8 radiator mounted in the 6 cyl position. The added a/c and power steering eats up some of the room for the shroud as well. The biggest problem is the condenser, which is hard piped. Fun stuff.


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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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I love the colors that you don't have to explain. That is RED plain and simple no big explanation, it's RED!

Brian
Hear you there.
Only a few people saw the last color as green/olive. They all thought it was grey.
I had to tell them it's green.
 
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The cooling system is almost buttoned up on the 57. Letting the rtv set up on the thermo housing before I tighten it down and install the hose. I need to get more distilled water to mix up the rest of my coolant and I can top it off.
I decided not to get the repair bracket for the distributor in the truck. I think it would be a nightmare to install with the distributor in the truck. It is held in place by the same two screws that hold the cap on, so it would be a fight to hold it in place while installing the cap. I ordered a new complete unit from Rock Auto for about 1/3 of the local price. Same warranty, identical manufacturer. Aluminum body, not plastic. Whichever GM engineer thought that was a great idea needs to be smacked. Twice. But then, it did save them some money, and it lasted until it was out of warranty.
IMG_20210213_144927759_HDR.jpg


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Distilled water you say?
Damn, never used that in my life.
 

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Distilled water you say?
Damn, never used that in my life.
We didn't on the 57 either, but I noticed more corrosion on the aluminum bits than before, too. I've started doing it recently, especially in the Z28 with the aluminum heads and radiator.

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