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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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Did a little work on the Jeep bumper I made last summer. The first pic is last summer towing behind the motorhome. The red shackles were used because the safety cable hooks were not big enough to hook directly to the bumper.

616107


I ground the loop more on the bottom corner so the hook will fit, ground a groove down the center, and then laid a bead to match the top. I haven't decided whether I will just zzzt zzzt a touch-up or repaint the whole thing. The shackles will now just be used if we get in a pinch somewhere off the beaten path...

616106
 

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Did a little work on the Jeep bumper I made last summer. The first pic is last summer towing behind the motorhome. The red shackles were used because the safety cable hooks were not big enough to hook directly to the bumper.

View attachment 616107

I ground the loop more on the bottom corner so the hook will fit, ground a groove down the center, and then laid a bead to match the top. I haven't decided whether I will just zzzt zzzt a touch-up or repaint the whole thing. The shackles will now just be used if we get in a pinch somewhere off the beaten path...

View attachment 616106
looks nice!
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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looks nice!
Thanks. The Blue Ox setups were $400 plus they mount under the stock bumper, and my dad didn't want to give up that much approach angle. (it's his Jeep) So I used an extra set of prongs a friend gave to my grandpa years ago and bought some tubing. That welder has definitely paid for itself.
 

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Blue64Tbird, I take it you like T birds, I know of a 64 buried in 2 feet of wet and soggy leaves with lots of holes eaten through the sheet metal plus it is covered in moss. The vinal top is gone it is a sad sight to see. It is sitting in the rain forest in Washington.
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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Blue64Tbird, I take it you like T birds, I know of a 64 buried in 2 feet of wet and soggy leaves with lots of holes eaten through the sheet metal plus it is covered in moss. The vinal top is gone it is a sad sight to see. It is sitting in the rain forest in Washington.
That is sad. The TBird in my picture is my grandmas I am working on restoring back to the condition it was when my great grandpa bought it new for my great grandma.
 

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Nice looks like a great easy project unlike the other, it would be damn near impossible to restore it., Would be damn near impossible to restore it. the only thing I would do with the sad rust pile would be cutting the whole bottom end out of the thunderbird, stick an old f150 frame under it with the twin I beam suspension and put a new floor pan in. I think it would look great as a Baja bird. I like the twin I beam mostly for the great offroad abilities and sketchy road handling. Good luck restoring your grandmas Tbird.
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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Nice looks like a great easy project unlike the other, it would be damn near impossible to restore it., Would be damn near impossible to restore it. the only thing I would do with the sad rust pile would be cutting the whole bottom end out of the thunderbird, stick an old f150 frame under it with the twin I beam suspension and put a new floor pan in. I think it would look great as a Baja bird. I like the twin I beam mostly for the great offroad abilities and sketchy road handling. Good luck restoring your grandmas Tbird.
Now you got me thinking about a Baja bird lol. If a guy found a rusted out one nearby... A 58-60 "squarebird" would look nice on some all terrains, but that would likely turn into a project that never gets finished.

Still waiting on parts for the Tbird. In the mean time I painted the Jeep bumper.
616181
 

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True Hotrodder
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It's been a crazy few weeks. I think I left off with water pump issues, transmission issues and not even sure of what else. I wasn't real happy about any of it but that's the way it goes some days.

We've had some major storms roll through the last couple of weeks with temperatures going from 30 at night to 80+ during the day, back and forth making it tough to get some stuff done. Anyway I ordered a new water pump and I wanted to get rid of the vacuum line that keeps getting rubbed on so I ordered a couple of AN fittings and a 2 foot length of hose. My middle son needed some new NGK plugs too. So of course the plugs get back-ordered as does one of the AN fittings. Great. I Finally had a decent day and rolled Elvira out of the trailer. Taking the trans out isn't a killer but like anything else, there's a certain sequence you need to follow of the whole affair is a total CF. I learned years ago that using my engine hoist makes it almost painless and the trans and trans cooler comes out as a module. I put it on the work table and started taking stuff apart. Being a Powerglide, there's really not a lot to them but you do have to pay attention to the details. As I removed assemblies, everything was looking pretty good. Pump, high gear clutch pack, valve-body, reverse clutch pack - all looking good. Then I saw it - what was this little sliver of rubber doing just laying inside the main part of the trans?? I wasn't really positive where it had come from - almost like a wayward piece of trash that got left in there from the previous build. So I decide to air test the reverse clutch pack - first hit seems okay but sounded like it was leaking a bit, second hit it looks like it went sideways, half-cocked, third hit okay but leaky. Well, time to take it out but my tool for compressing the clutch return springs is being a real PITA - it keeps slipping out of the case grooves. I finally do a little work and reconfigure the tool, putting it in from the tail end of the trans and then compressing the clutch springs. Anyway I get it out and start looking at the piston - well for one thing the pin hole in the piston was not at the 12 o'clock position that it should have been - so that was a mistake from the last rebuild and the main outer seal has a small chunk missing from it - ahhh, now we know where that piece of rubber came from!

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That explains why the trans has been doing some really weird things on the starting line. And I thought it was all due to the SLE not operating correctly.
So, while I have the trans apart I decide that I might as well do a few upgrades. Starting with reverse clutch pack I decided to move it up from what I call 5 clutches to 6 clutches. Now let me explain something here - I have always called a clutch pack number by the number of friction discs that are contained in it - I always thought that was the proper way and it makes sense to me. I have seen some transmission outfits - big name ones too - that would call this a 10-clutch pack or a 12-clutch pack because they count the steels too. A little fishy to me but just something to be aware of. So anyway I had a couple of reverse pistons that would work with a 6 pack, but neither of them had the air bleed modification. The deal on this is to vent out the air from behind the piston so it can fill with trans fluid faster and then as it engages, the air bleed hole is covered up by a steel plate. It makes quite an improvement when you go on the transbrake. You do need to make sure that the air bleed hole is in the 12 o'clock position. Using a new, sharp bit in the drill press, I put a new air bleed hole in one of the clutch pistons. I also measured the reverse clutch pack clearance and I normally want something between .050 and .075 - I ended up at .065. My next upgrade was the Sun Shell bushing - usually called the wedding ring. Using an aftermarket hardened Turbo shaft, I leave it out - on a stocker I would put it in to provide additional support but I don't think it's needed with the aftermarket stuff. Besides, we have roller bearings in the back, Torrington bearings in the front and other locations but then a bushing in the middle of the trans - nope I don't see it. Next up was a FTI dual ring servo piston, nylon rings and billet cover plate that replaced all of the original stock stuff. That should allow the band to apply with some additional force. On the other side, I installed a FTI hardened adjustment screw. I like these because they use a 5/16" head instead of a recessed Allen head. It makes it easier to measure the torque specification, especially on the dragster as this part of the trans is sitting right next to the bottom main rail of the car - it's tight in there! My last modification was to the front pump. This pump was one from BTE and is in excellent shape with quite a number of modifications already done to it. I never have liked the idea of all my pump pressure being dependent on a roll pin. I modify the engine oil pumps to remove them and I modify the Powerglide pump to get rid of it's stock roll pin. I tap the cavity and then put a little bit of blue Loctite on an Allen head and screw it into place after reversing the primer valve. Works like a charm and you never have to worry about a pressure loss.
The rest of the rebuild is pretty standard. I replaced all the rubber seals, installed fresh gaskets where needed, I use a kit that allows the installation of a Chrysler 727 fluid filter - it's larger and allows better flow that a stock PG one. I also prefer the cast type deep oil pan as it adds some rigidity to the bottom of the transmission. I have the pan tapped for a temperature sender unit and I use a Moroso Blue Seal pan gasket. Mounted in front of the pan is a BTE overflow tank that is connected to the transmission vent hole. I also installed a new Kevlar lined band as the old band was on it's last bit and there was just about zero adjustment left in it. I adjust the band to 80 inch pounds of torque and then back the adjustment out 3.5 turns. The cooler and AN lines were flushed out as was the TSI convertor. Old school here as I am still using an 8" unit but a lot of racers with larger engines are now using 9" ones.

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All done. Just have to put it back in the car now - hoping to get that done tomorrow but we have another day of rain coming so who knows?
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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It's to pretty. Go rub it against some rocks.
haha. We might have that part covered pretty soon. Taking a trip to Arizona and Utah in June and we are hitting Moab for sure. I am pretty sure this Jeep has never been seriously off-roaded by the previous owner before. There are no scrapes on skid plates or any suspension components underneath, so we will try our best to keep it that way while still having fun. I think that makes it more of a challenge that way.
 

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I was finally able to pick up my driveshaft today. My one-week turnaround ended up being 4 weeks. No time to install this evening, so I'll have to do it after work tomorrow. Then I can finally get the final clutch adjustment done.

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
 

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Semper Gumby
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Not car-related but - I spent two hours trying to start my Ryobi weedwacker.
I have a contractor coming to stain and paint my new fence so I should get all the grass away from the bottom of it
and that (censored) weedwacker will not even 'pop".
I rebuilt the carb, put in fresh gas/oil mix, primed, choked and yanked on the cord until my arm nearly fell off. (Yes, it was switched on!)
I hate, despise, loathe, dislike, detest and otherwise don't much love 2 cycle engines!
Now I guess I better run to "Home Despot" and rent one for the evening.
 

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Well - I certainly didn't get the trans installed today - so much for any track time tomorrow. My youngest wanted to put a new weight distribution hitch on his rig so he brought it over and we spent more than a few hours on that little project. The worst of it was getting the old ball off the old hitch - I used to have a socket that fit that stuff but guess I loaned it out and it never returned. We ended up clamping the bottom of the ball in the workbench vise then taking an old monkey wrench that I have used maybe 3 times since owning it for the last 40 years and a chunk of pipe on the end of it to finally break the nut loose with every ounce of grunt that I had available. Next on the list was having to move the brake battery box forward on the trailer tongue to give room to were the bracket that the weight bar hangs on. With that it was just doing the final setup on it. He also had another problem with this new trailer that the right side tail light had quit working. There was a nice aluminum cover panel on the inside that we had to remove first and that took it's share of cussing to get off without bending the daylights out of it - but then that exposed the fact that they use those garbage 3M wire splice connectors to join the wires together and the ground wire had been cut clean through - I bet that light quit working right after the first major bump I went over bringing it home.

My oldest boy told me that he wanted to run his car tomorrow and I told him to let me know by today and I would get it loaded and ready - not a word, peep or anything. Figures. Guess there's always next week.
 

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Semper Gumby
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Check for spark. If not could be plug, wire, or mag coil.
I checked spark. Yup. It has spark. Just won't start.
Home Despot had a rental Makita at 25 bucks for 24 hours rental, so I can at least get the trimming done.
I will worry about the Ryobi next week. It was reliable as the sun last year, but now- nothing! :mad:😡
 

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I checked spark. Yup. It has spark. Just won't start.
Home Despot had a rental Makita at 25 bucks for 24 hours rental, so I can at least get the trimming done.
I will worry about the Ryobi next week. It was reliable as the sun last year, but now- nothing! :mad:
I like the way you put that... Reliable as the sun. I have a Shindaiwa trimmer that has been reliable for the last 8-10 years. Last year it started acting strange, so I ordered a carb kit and fuel lines, and replaced the plug. Worked pretty good the the remainder of the season. Fired up on the 2nd pull this season and ran well until the string emptied. Shut it down to refill the spool and then no joy on the restart. Same crap as before. Pulled the plug to check for spark, and it was a nice fat blue spark. Put it back in and it fired up first pull. No explanation. I'm about ready to get a Stihl this time.

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