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Had the 89 stake delivered. Previous guy took some bark off a tree. No damage to the hood and I can save the front clip.

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Straighter then it looks
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I can save this interior
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87tbi(swapped), sm465, FF 14 bolt. Simple setup. Needs a new fuel pump, the brakes refreshed, some new front rubber(newer good rears) then it should be ready to tackle winter.

One of those someone put cash into it then it sat. This is my 2nd stake so I know the deal.

My last one was a 84 that I dropped a 383 into. That had a 8x12 bed and I drove the wheels off that truck till the engines rear main went out. One of those I regret selling it. But just did not have the room to keep it at the time.

So when I seen this thing (8x10) (for cheap) I pounced. I will run the 5.7 for a bit then that will drop into the 87 4x4 (that has a auto) with this 89 getting a 5.3 at some point.
 

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Had the 89 stake delivered. Previous guy took some bark off a tree. No damage to the hood and I can save the front clip.

View attachment 617538


Straighter then it looks
View attachment 617539
I can save this interior
View attachment 617540


87tbi(swapped), sm465, FF 14 bolt. Simple setup. Needs a new fuel pump, the brakes refreshed, some new front rubber(newer good rears) then it should be ready to tackle winter.

One of those someone put cash into it then it sat. This is my 2nd stake so I know the deal.

My last one was a 84 that I dropped a 383 into. That had a 8x12 bed and I drove the wheels off that truck till the engines rear main went out. One of those I regret selling it. But just did not have the room to keep it at the time.

So when I seen this thing (8x10) (for cheap) I pounced. I will run the 5.7 for a bit then that will drop into the 87 4x4 (that has a auto) with this 89 getting a 5.3 at some point.
Nice truck, I would just beef that up for offroading, those trucks are fairly sturdy.
 

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Got started on porting and milling the head on my 6.5 Toro lawnmower, I am hoping to pull about 10 ish ponies out of the damn thing. When I pulled the head i realized the exhaust port was choked down to about 1/2 an inch all ports are 90 degree bends, and could not let it suffer any longer. Along with that I will be making a new intake that goes straight in and an exhaust that goes as straight as possible. go through clean the whole engine, rebuild it paint it Hemi orange, rebuild the drive system, tune the carb, get rid of the electric start, weld up the cam a little, possibly make a hook up for an oxygen tank to add a little boost for tough jobs with a push button system to engage it. After boosting a 5 horse with an air compressor and survive I am fairly comfortable boosting the Toro. If I kill it I hope it is spectacular. Hopefully I can convince parents to let me buy an old 60's beat up mopar, would be a definite yes if we had some land.
 

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Over the last few weeks I haven't made much progress on anything. The Monza still sits next to the garage waiting on a "conversation" that was supposed to have happened a couple of days after Father's Day.

So not to be totally lazy, I went back to work on my '55 - at least I get to control the destiny on it. The Monza is a shared car, the '55 and Elvira are all mine. The plan for this one has changed and morphed like many do with time. I plan on sitting the body on a Jegster chassis. I have the rear/wheels/shot tires riding on some of those roller plates and I took some rectangle metal fab pieces and 5" casters to make some rollers for the front of the car. Since I was getting rid of the original frame I had already decapitated it up to the firewall. I welded my fab pieces to the outer part of the firewall and I had a car body that I could push around. Next up which I just did over the last few days was finding a method to support the rear of the car so that I could get rid of the rest of the frame, floorboards, trunk area, rear end, wheels, shot tires, springs and shocks. I came up with taking a couple of leftover pieces of the fab metal about 20" long, putting it through the rear taillight body holes, fastening it to a bit of the leftover trunk metal and then welding some 1 5/8" tubing to it along with another pair of 5" casters I had on hand. I then took some 3/4" conduit and made a brace between the larger tubing but I need a mulligan on it as I didn't get one of the uprights as straight as I would like it.
I'm using a Cut-50 plasma unit and let me tell you - if you don't have one of these or something better - put it on the list of tools you need. For a relatively inexpensive machine (mine's over 2+ years now) they work pretty darned good. I cut out most of the floorboard and trunk area for starters. Tossed all of that in the back of the truck then started hacking at the rear portion of the frame rails. I was a little concerned about the rear springs on the car, I had no idea of how much arch they had or stored energy and I certainly didn't want to get a digit in the way but it really wasn't bad at all. As I finished the cuts on the frame rails, the springs lifted the pieces about a 1/2" or so. To facilitate things, I found it easier at this point to just cut through the leaf spring itself. On this car someone in the past had made their own upper shock mount. It appears to consist of a 4" piece of c-channel with another piece of 3/16" angle iron welded to one edge. Then on the front side two more pieces of larger angle iron were welded at an angle to catch the studs on the top of the shocks. This entire contraption was then welded between the frame rails at their highest part of the rear end arch. Unfortunately from my position in the trunk area my plasma cutter wasn't a good match for it. The more I tried to cut this piece of iron work, the more the cuts just melted into a glob and re-solidified. I took a few minutes and re-evaluated what I was wanting to get accomplished here. Obviously the frame and rear end needed to go and were the primary objectives. I decided to lop off the tops of the shocks and then went forward on the frame and cut the front spring retainers apart. This allowed the rear to now be loose from the frame. Next I cut through the frame just aft of the body mounts that are on each side of the car right where the back of the rear seat would be. That dropped the forward part of the frame and also allowed the rear section of the frame to drop back at an angle. I believe when I remove the rear end completely there will be plenty of room for that rear section of frame to drop and I can take it out along with the shock mount from hell in one piece.
So at this point being rather dirty and really sweating in 90* heat I moved forward a bit and cut the remaining frame side rails into four individual pieces. I then slid those out and dumped them in the truck. I forgot to mention that before I got rid of the floor pans that I took some more 3/4" conduit and put braces across the door areas, then another brace across the dash and one at the rear of the door openings. Basically built a box to provide a little structure. So while it sounds like I am just jumping around cutting stuff I'm also having to be gymnast and crawl in and around all this stuff.

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In the above pic you can see the shock mount from hell just above the rear end. I'm now sure but I think it would have worked okay for a dump truck.

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This shows the 3/4" conduit bracing I put in. I have used conduit in the past (at least 3/4") and it does a great job for this type of thing and it's cheap. Plus if you just cut through the welds, you can use it over again. I need to cut out the foot boards and the center part of the firewall, I'll leave enough for trimming once I have the BBC positioned where I want it.

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And looking back towards the rear end again. I have two things to do next. One is to straighten up the upright I made that is holding up the left rear corner of the car body. I'll have to figure out some kind of temporary support while I cut and re-do that brace. If you look at the rear of the car, you can see how the upright back there is tilted inward. The second is probably going to be lifting the back of the body a bit so that I have a little extra room to remove the wheels and get the rear out along with the last piece of frame. I'm thinking that a 4x4 underneath the rear sheet-metal (which is solid), a length of chain and the engine hoist reaching through the open trunk would be the easiest. In fact I think that would be a good idea to fix that brace for the upright at the same time.

I have a long ways to go yet. After I do a bit more cutting on the foot boards and firewall, I'm going to roll it out and give it a good bath with the power washer. I probably swept up a good 10-15 pounds of dirt that fell out of the frame. And there's more inside the rocker panels. I have some new inner and outer rocker panels and from the looks of things these will be the first new metal added to the car since the shock mount.
 

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Worked on '55 a bit more today but it's hot and humid around here again which takes a lot out of me. I should have mowed the back grass but just didn't feel like walking around in that sun.

First I cut out the firewall and foot board area doing most of it with the plasma cutter. I ended up finishing the cut with the sawsall to get through the front bottom floor supports. I have more cutting to do for getting the rockers in but I'll probably try to save as much good metal as I can now so I have something to attach them too.

Next up was figuring out getting the body up a bit in the back to fix that upright. I thought I was going to have to go get a 4x4 but I had some leftover 2x4 in the shed that I screwed together instead. I lifted the rear of the car until I had an inch under those rear casters, then I cut the previous brace out and replaced it with a longer one to push that upright closer to being straight. I let the car down and moved it around a little bit - seems okay. The last thing was taking that last bit of frame with the shock mount on it and shoving that over the rear end and into the vacant space in front of it. Then I jacked up the rear end, removed the wheels/tires and set the drums back on those roller plates. I should be able now to turn the rear 90* to the car and roll it out the front. I'm saving that for tomorrow as I can only take so much "car metal" to the dump at one time without someone noticing.

This pic is just the firewall area that I cut out. I decided to cut it out bigger than I planned and just put the engine where I want it then fab a new firewall/trans cover. The frontend piece there is due for a lot of fab work too unless I suddenly come up with the funds for a Mll frontend.

617682
 

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Organized the garage moving a plow onto a 2nd pallet jack and lathe onto some heavy duty dollies. So all the heavy stuff is on rollers or a pallet. Mowed the lawn then pulled my 04 ion out by the road to make room for the c30.
 

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Did a couple of hours on Project Shoestring ('55 Chevy). Got the last part of the frame out of the way and into the truck, cut the spring u-bolts and tossed the springs, shocks, other pieces in truck. Moved the rear to the side of the garage and posted it on CL - got one bite but not sure if it's a scam - whenever the first thing they want is the address - it bothers me. Most honest people want to know something about the part first.

Moved the car body forward and back so I could get most of the dirt cleaned up and decided that moving it out for a wash is probably a good idea. Still got a little bit of cutting to do - rear wheel wells need to come out and part of the rear seat brace area will come out with it. After that my next thing is the inner and outer rocker panels.

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It looks to me that I should try and cut away what's left of the inner rockers first using the outer ones as a guide to replace them, then go after the outer ones?

I've been a bit surprised at how quickly everything has gone so far. I was hesitant about a few things but so far no issues so just keep on pushing I suppose. I don't want to go much further without getting the rocker stuff done as I feel like even though the inner ones are gone, there is still some stability provided by the outer metal. Getting all of that replaced to me would strengthen the body and I wouldn't mind cutting out some of the other areas that aren't going to be needed.

The dash is one area that needs some work too. It's apparent that in one of it's last lives someone was interested in keeping tabs on the engine/drivetrain. I have a nice assortment of instrument holes in the dash and I haven't really figured out yet what I am doing as far as instruments. My preference is to always keep everything right in front of me so I am leaning towards reworking one of the instrument clusters to house a tach in the center and then array some smaller gauges around it. Normally oil, water, trans and vacuum are all I need.

617705
 

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Tore some parts off my parts block to throw on my good block.
Bought some gaskets, plugs, etc.

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Pulled the truck into the garage. 96" wide bed 102" wide door. Had to take off the headache rack because that was to tall.

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Thing made it into the garage. But wow I found out I had like 4 fuel line leaks at the switcher and the filter.

That was the nail in the coffin of this fuel system. I threw a tray under those lines then jumped online. I hate side tanks, the one working pump is weak, and will eventually I will be going LS.
So I found a old steel gas tank with a sending unit. The guy threw in a extra fuel sending unit.

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The thing is made out of 1/8" steel so I am just going to tap it at the bottom and use the old sending units feed line as a return line(after ripping the sock off).

The thing will gravity feed to a walbro 225 fuel pump which is the same setup my tbi 87 is currently using. Running fuel injection hose of course.

Thing measures 17x26x13" so I should be able to throw 24.5 gallons in it and tuck it between the rails.
 

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This was my day yesterday. New safety belts. One of my friends said it was a two beer job, he was wrong this was more like a four beer job. We have to replace these every two years and somewhere in there they moved the camlock to the crotch belt instead of being on a waist belt. I guess the point was to try and force people to wear the crotch belt. I always have but on this car, it's really tight getting that belt in place, keeping the adjustment hardware off of the seat and the bar that the belt wraps around plus getting it positioned where I want it. Probably took me 15 minutes to get the old belts out and the rest of the day off and on to get the new ones in. These belts had enough material to hold down a really, really big person which meant I had to remove a lot of excess material then melt the cuts. I also will not purchase RCI again. My previous belts had nicely finished hardware and the belt material was a bit softer. These have just plain hardware and the belt material is stiff. I have a coupon to get these re-certified in two years but I won't put them back in - probably use them for one of the other cars or sell them.

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Started to replace the muffler on the 01.

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Everything is tight and snug. I threw up some tacks to hold things. You can imagine there are some leaks currently. I thought I had repair tape(tack then wrap makes things so easy) But it is not in my exhaust stuff so I gave it away or it is in one of my moving boxes still.

I started welding around with some ugly results then said screw it. The thing is solid just not airtight. I will head back to the parts store tomorrow, grind those things smooth,wrap the seams, and the thing will be good.
 

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I was too tuckered to type last night, but yesterday I finally got the Tbird running good enough to drive. Well, I didn't do it. I helped an old mechanic we called in figure out the problem. The PCV valve I thought I had cleaned out and got it to work again turned out to still be the problem. A pair of flat-nosed vice grips pinched off the hose going to the intake manifold and after slowing down the idle it was good to go. I found a replacement valve in the Bird's Nest catalog (A business in Oregon specializing in parts for 58-66 Tbirds) so I will give Fred a call on Monday.
 

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Well when I had the driveshaft made for the s10 I wanted to upgrade the pinion on the sm465 to 1410 u joints.

Then I decided to hold on that and just run the stock 1350 u joint yoke and because it had been so long I just assumed I had a 1410/1410 u joint. So I ordered a 1350/1410 conversion u joint and would switch to a 1410/1410 later.

But it is about right here when I realized I made a mistake.
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Guess what? I already have a 1350/1410 conversation u joint in there. I had a laugh over it and after some back and forth I had it free.
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So I just need a solid 1350/1350 which I will just buy locally. The other end has a solid 1350/1310 currently and that will be 1350/1350 when I change the 9" 3rd's yoke. So 1350's all around eventually. After fighting with this 1410/1350 I can leave the sm465's output the stock 1350 for a good while longer. I am stuck with 1350 on the ends of the shaft even if I have forged 1410 transmission and 3rd yokes so its only as strong as those 1350's anyway. I might as well just run 1350's all around and call it good.

I will throw a new u joint in this weekend and get back to the engine placment/ building mounts once that driveshaft is in place.
 

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I don't have any pictures but over the weekend I finally got all of my door locks on the F-350 working again. My truck is a crewcab, 8 foot, dually and I was really tired of walking all around the truck every time I parked it to lock all the doors. Seems like I always took the long - way around for some reason! Anyway, you can now get upgraded door locks that do not have the thin piece of foil conductor in them - it was this foil piece that would breakdown with time and render the lock inoperable. With the right tools, they're not that hard to replace but they can be a bit aggravating to get them out to the point where you can work on them. The mechanism not only has your electric lock but also houses the door strike receiver and the power window piece. While I was at it on the front doors, I replaced the old speakers with a new set to match the radio I put in a few years back. I still need to pull the interior covers next to the rear seating and replace those speakers but that's a job for another day. I also cleaned the door frames and the door panel covers as I went along. It's nice to be able to hit that lock switch on the driver's door and lock the truck up again.
 
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