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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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Well sad news tonight. My grandpa just passed away due to a anyurism (sp?) in his stomach. He didn't make it through emergency surgery. I'm thankful we were able to take the Thunderbird to the 2 car shows we did. I couldn't have got it drivable without his knowledge and help. He will be greatly missed. The worst part for me is I won't be able to learn from him anymore... Take care guys.
 

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Sorry to hear about it, it was truly a blessing you were able to spend more time with your grandpa. I will keep you and your family in my prayers.
 

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1,856 Posts
Chasracer, Have you looked into what made your car pull so violently to the right when you hit the wall? I am curious as to what you find...
Just a quick note on this without a lot of drama but I have a chassis guy in NC that's helping me out a bit. The plan is to have the Monza in the garage this coming weekend and drop some marks on the floor to figure what the issues are. I am suspecting right now that I screwed up the last time using the front end crossmember as a center point to triangulate the car. He has already shown me a better way to square up the chassis and I'm thinking my previous work may have moved the rear in the wrong direction. We'll know something by next weekend and I'll post it here.
 

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I had a problem with the tail light circuit board in my 98 GMC pickup again. This will be the 3rd circuit board on the left side. I took one of the cheap Chinese made replacements apart to see what was in it. The answer is... Not much. Some cheap bent clips and a fiberglass circuit board with a very thin layer of metal traces. I'm planning on soldering in some wires to make the circuits. I'm tired of having to replace these things. They typically fail immediately before I have to get it inspected. I'll finish this up once I get some thinner wire. More to follow.
Jigsaw puzzle Wood Font Art Machine


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,572 Posts
WTF is that? Circuit board?

Should I be making aftermarket plates to sell that hold three standard sockets?
 

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3,728 Posts
Finally got my driveshaft in. This thing has been a nightmare. front u joint was the wrong size. delay while I order the correct one. Rear u joint was the wrong size delay while I order that. U joint straps yea I need those, and the front straps I ordered were wrong so yet another delay. But finally it is in.
618742


Then onto testing and moving the placement of the engine. I have 1 1/4 in the video below. I am going to put it 1 1/8 exposed which I guess will drop to between 1" and 7/8 when all the weight is on. I will have around 2" still inside to grip onto the front part of the driveshaft.


Once that was figured out I started playing with motor mounts and found out well I need to rough up the steering linkage first.
But before that I need to figure out how the exhaust is going to go.

I settled on the manifolds being mounted up and back. This fixes my issue with the clutch slave hitting the manifold as wel as givng me lots of working room. It also will let me easily run a turbo "or two" behind the motor above the transmission by the firewall later.
618743


The exhaust is going to go on the outside of the frame. This pipe is 4.5" and the porter muffler that I want to use is 2.5 inside and 4" outside. I plan on shooting it with VHT paint the entire length so it being 1.5" away from the sidewall is not a concern.
618744


That taken care of I figured out my rough steering linkage routing
618745

It needs to go down and then back up to clear the manifold as well as clear this little corner of the block. I plan on running 1 u joint on the inside(to tilt) and 2 in the middle before one at the steering box itself. The linkage will be supported by 6 bearings and of course be safe in a crash.


Onto the actual motor mounts.
I am going to just use biscuits because I love them and have a plate welded to the bottom of the frame then have gussets going down off the top of the frame. On the engine part I am going to use these motor mount things and extend them so they make a bracket that sits on top of the biscuit. It will make pulling the engine extremly easy and also serve as a bracket for the steering linkage.
Passenger:

618747



Driver:
618748


Ok now the transmission mount I knew was going to be tricky because it is not only at part of the frame where it arches up. But I have leaf springs in the way and I eventually want to run caltracs.
618749


So I am going to use the existing frame brace (saving weight) and use some 1.5" x.120 square stock to make a U shape.
618750


I am going to weld a plate to the bottom of this brace to the 1.5" then will have 2 drops that will then sit on biscuits.

Those biscuits will sit on top of a plate that is bolted to the transmission.

618751


This U shape will also let me bolt driveshaft hoop to it.

The only problem with this plan is that I will have to use a skinny shift linkage from the cab to top of the transmission.
I was going to notch this section and weld in a C for increased linkage clearence. But I should be good using a skinny piece of steel as it will be supported on both ends by shifters and just copy the other's movements. If I feel it is weak I will notch the cross support slightly once the floor is glued down.

618752


Lots of problem solving and not much actual progress. Tomorrow this baby is going to gain some weight. and hopefully carry the engine by the weekend.
 

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I had a problem with the tail light circuit board in my 98 GMC pickup again. This will be the 3rd circuit board on the left side. I took one of the cheap Chinese made replacements apart to see what was in it. The answer is... Not much. Some cheap bent clips and a fiberglass circuit board with a very thin layer of metal traces. I'm planning on soldering in some wires to make the circuits. I'm tired of having to replace these things. They typically fail immediately before I have to get it inspected. I'll finish this up once I get some thinner wire. More to follow. View attachment 618740


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I have ordered 2 of these for a 95 and a 94 gmt400 so far. I will probally order a 3rd before messing with another hit and miss stock circuit board.


Not only are these things cheap. That's a set of taillights that pop right in for twice what those cheap replacement boards cost. These ones come with a little "black box" which means you can use your exiting flasher and just plug these in. Just clean off a area for the box to mount to peel off the double sided tape and your good. I think I mounted it to the inside of the light actualy and t fit without a issue. But worst case you slap it against the inside of the bedside.

The backup light needs to be a bulb in most states if it came with a bulb(I dont get it either). The backup light lens on these is a big improvement over a factory light also even with the same bulb. You will notice the difference.

Don't mess with a board, order these lights, pop them into the factory holes, and never think about it again. There are other similar ones. But these ones are the ones you want because of that black box.
 

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WTF is that? Circuit board?

Should I be making aftermarket plates to sell that hold three standard sockets?
Yep, a circuit board. A very, very cheap circuit board. I'm not sure that conventional sockets would fit between the light housing and the body. Some of the flat 90 degree sockets might. I'm gonna give the internal wiring mod a shot before I do anything else. Changing over to conventional sockets would mean cutting the wiring in the truck itself unless I could find the socket part somewhere.

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I have ordered 2 of these for a 95 and a 94 gmt400 so far. I will probally order a 3rd before messing with another hit and miss stock circuit board.


Not only are these things cheap. That's a set of taillights that pop right in for twice what those cheap replacement boards cost. These ones come with a little "black box" which means you can use your exiting flasher and just plug these in. Just clean off a area for the box to mount to peel off the double sided tape and your good. I think I mounted it to the inside of the light actualy and t fit without a issue. But worst case you slap it against the inside of the bedside.

The backup light needs to be a bulb in most states if it came with a bulb(I dont get it either). The backup light lens on these is a big improvement over a factory light also even with the same bulb. You will notice the difference.

Don't mess with a board, order these lights, pop them into the factory holes, and never think about it again. There are other similar ones. But these ones are the ones you want because of that black box.
Thanks for the link. Those lights look pretty good, but I'm gonna take a swing at fixing what I have first.

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