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Shot a can and a half of pentrating oil all over the 91 s10 230am this morning then been going back and forth removing stuff, cleaning the house letting the stuff soak, then removing more stuff.

Hoods marked and off, majority of the wiring is loose/disconnected, trans is ready to drop interior wise, and other basic stuff is out the way.

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I am dragging my feet waiting on parts.
Added a new radiatior to the list this morning.
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The exhaust is new so the bolts should come off. But the crossmember bolts are not. They are fun to get to also. So I am going to remove the exhaust mid week and continue to shoot those crossmember bolts a few more times then pull the engine/trans as a unit on Saturday.


The fuel lines...
You would think with fiero's burning because you located methanol based washer fluid above the exhaust just a few years earlier they would have learned.

Nope this is factory. Better just make dang sure that fuel filter made by the cheapest kid is good quality because its well.

Directly above the exhaust!
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Once again its factory. So yea I am moving the lines under the front of the engine then up the passenger side.
Places the fuel filter near the oil filter still easy to reach and will make future clutch changes easy. Also will avoid the crunch of fuel/electrical lines currently happening at the back of the valve cover.
 

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Pulled the exhaust on the 91 s10 in one piece this morning.
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Its cobbled together. But it came out easy and will go back up easy. When I hit the muffler on something I will replace it.

Went to pull the transmission bolts and sheared the transmission mount bolt right off.
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The 4 bolts holding the crossmember are still rock solid even with a 3' pry bar. So I gave them a liberal coating of some more pentrating lubricate and called it a night.

2 of the bolts are recessed into the frame. Next to fuel and brake lines. If I round them off I am basically cutting and modifying the crossmember or making a new crossmember. So I will let them soak a bit longer and play with this on Saturday.

The boxes in the bed should all be here by next Wednesday. That transmission mount is one of the things I am still waiting on.
 

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After my granddaughter wrecked the '97 Mazda Portege we gave her back in May, I put a new headlight and turn signal housing on the driver's side, and a used driver's side fender. Banged out the hood, and slopped some filler on the lip, and shot it with paint. Good to go.
Then we got a call at 6:00 a.m. this morning telling us she'd rear ended another vehicle. No damage to the other, but she said her car was making a "bad noise". Drove out to meet her, and at first it didn't look bad. But hood wouldn't open, and I noticed the urethane bumper cover was split, and the structural support was pushed back about 2"!
A start up sounded like the electric fans were hitting the radiator, but no coolant leaking. So had it towed to our place, and I popped the hood open with a big prybar. That's when I saw a lot more damage!
Both headlight housings broken tabs, so they're goners. The top of her brand new radiator bent over about 60 degrees, and amazingly not leaking! The AC condenser also bent over, but a bit less than the radiator. Both electric fans broken. The radiator core support twisted, but may be salvageable. And of course it looks like a good used hood is better than fooling with this one now, as it's tweaked worse than the last time!
Not a huge parts expense, at maybe $250-$300, but it's going to be a week or so just waiting for the radiator. And a trip to the wrecking yard to pull a hood and whatever other parts I can find there.
Of course it's a wrestling match to get my fat fingers into all those cramped spaces the Japanese love to make for me to work in! If this old '97 Mazda didn't have such low mileage (135,000) I'd just haul it to the wrecking yard, and junk it out instead.
 

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I got the 2 crossmember bolts out. I am a firm believer in using new hardware in spots where it is impossible to grind the head off a bolt.
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But luckly I was able to get them out. The two on the other side are exposed. I played with them for 5 minutes with a pry bar then a impact. Before a grinder made short work of them.

Engine and transmission are just sitting on the engine mounts. I got the truck hoist onto my yard truck and staged it to pull the engine/trans tomorrow.
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Got to the local pick n pull and got lucky. A perfect front clip on another '97 Protege, so I got bumper, lights, hood, and fans off it in quick order. Headed home and pulled everything off the wrecked Mazda, which took a lot longer with bent and smashed brackets.
The ends of the frame rails looked good, but when I held the donor bumper up to the mounting holes they were 3/4" wider than the mounting holes on the frame brackets! Straightened out the brackets, and put my porta power between the rails to spread them a little. Tried the bumper again, and it went right on. The old bumper had all the plastic cover, inner structure, and dense styrofoam busted up. Amazing the air bag didn't deploy too. Granddaughter said it didn't hit hard, so probably why. But the damage sure looked like she hit good!
Got the new bumper bolted up, and swapped hoods. The driver's front fender looked fine, but gap was wide up front, so loosened the fender and pushed it in at the front to even the gap.
Stopped at this point until the new radiator arrives. Local stores wanted $140, and found one online for $78, so better to wait.

After I cleaned up, I uncovered my '39 Chev coupe and put it in my backyard shop for the winter's nap. We're starting to barely get into the 60's for daytime highs, and lots of rain. So it needed to be inside until next year. Will put the battery tender on it, and splash some gas treatment in the tank later.

 

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Was lunching with my brother yesterday and he sent me this. Mom spotted our old car in traffic. Tony and I passed it back and forth for 22 years and shortly before I sold it I put that buff colored primer on it. In like 2008. The "new" owner only had it a few weeks before a theft + robbery attempt was made on it and he and his wife, at gunpoint. Luckily the wore out driver's door handle didn't work for the bandits and that bought time for a tire smoking getaway during which it caught a bullet where that magnet is on the door. We miss it but fortunately guy behind the wheel cares about it very very much.

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This past week I learned about using a master cylinder from a 2002 Silverado on a 88 to 99 or so Silverado, to fix the soft brake pedal problem. The one I ordered arrived today, I installed it on my 95 and flushed the brake system while I was at it. All I can say is WOW what an improvement.
I was reading that thread on the other forum as well. I'm going to have to do this on my 98 sometime soon. What size brake booster do you have?

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I was reading that thread on the other forum as well. I'm going to have to do this on my 98 sometime soon. What size brake booster do you have?

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Just stock one that came on truck, my guess is about 10” diameter. I got the cardon master cylinder from Amazon for $65 and some change, Rockauto was $62 plus shipping. I got adapter fitting from Autozone ($4). So for $70, I have a much better pedal, wish I would have learned about this swap 25 years ago, with my first truck.

My next item to fix will be the abs brakes and rebuild front suspension.
 

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Pulled the clutch.
Thing still had some life left and had a few minior burns.
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As suspected the rear main was leaking.
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Went to put the new one on and I either did not order it planning on buying one local or it is sitting somewhere besides where I put all the rest of the stuff for this.
So I got on Amazon and ordered 2 diffrent rear main seals so I have a backup. I also ordered all the stuff I was going to buy locally like fluids, hoses, etc.

Pulled the oil pan and side cover. Ok I am NOT a fan of people who use the entire thing of gasket maker on a oil pan. No gaskers just gasket maker.
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Cleaned up the pan and block then went to throw up the felpro 4 piece gasket.
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The instructions actually say if the timing cover does not have the holes for the triangles to push into to use gasket maker.
So yea. I Ordered some more black rtv and that will be here tomorrow also.

While waiting on that I installed the side cover with skim cote of gasket maker on the gasket. Installed the intake, EGR valve, coil, and throttlebody.
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Well my day started last night, at 130 am, stepson’s car would not start leaving work. Wife picked him up, grabbed battery jump box no luck starting his car.

This morning wife and I head to church with plan to stop at his car on way home. When I got in wife’s car this morning and go to start it, battery acted funny, turned over funny. I looked at her and said I think your battery is going bad. After church it started funny again and barely.
Next stop was Costco, after Costco battery was dead, good thing she grabbed jump box last night, quick jump and we are off to Autozone.
I walked in to Autozone and asked to borrow tools to pull battery, while wife pays for new one. 10 minutes later we are back on the road, going to look at stepsons car.
Stepsons car just goes click at starter, so we head home and call for tow, head back to car for pickup, got car home and confirmed it is the starter. New one is ordered, watched a few videos on changing starter on Honda Element, looks like I am in for some fun.
 

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Spent most of the day waiting on amazon.
I put new mirrors and taillights/bulbs on the truck.
5pm the stuff arrived and I went to work.
This is why I order two. The smaller one fit perfect at least.
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Rear main came out real easy and new one went in tight. Installed the oil pan after this.
Felpro says not to use the front gasket and on the rear it was completly wrong. Ok I understand the using the excessive amount of RTV and while I hate doing it thats basically what I had to do on the front and rear of the pan.

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It is a 70 degree night and perfect for letting that rtv seal tight. I went to the transmission rear seal eager to play with my new toy.
5 minutes later I broke my new toy. Dont buy these folks. The ratcheting mechanism cant hold the teeth and the thing just slips.
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It did not help the seal was really in there.
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Pry on the inside pushing that out then push the outside back in on itself. Works every time and you never touch the housing at all.
New seal went in nice and tight.
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Slapped up the new flywheel and torqued down the bolts. Some people use a thing that holds the starter ring teeth. But to me a pry bar is so much easier.
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Giving that oil pan RTV as much time as possible before I set the oil pan back onto the crate to install the transmission. Will slap the clutch on during the morning. Fighting working in the rain a bit tomorrow. But, I see no reason why I wont be driving this tomorrow. There is the front brake line I may crush. But other then watching for that it should drop right in to be pushed back into the garage to be buttoned up.
 
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