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The amazing thing is factory paint on plastic bumpers. Very forgiving in the crack department. ABS is the same way but not PUR. Many times, a hairdryer for the dent and a little hand polish for the marks is an actual fix on stuff from this century.

I am fighting the morbidly complex dual zone climate crap in my GTP which is last century but barely. Just getting warmth to come out of both sides and control over which vents requires an act of Congress. Any place where plastic and metal meet, like on the heat n vent door actuators, is just yeah... disposable stuff. Everything's gotta have a circuit board or designers will crap pants.

I'm still stuck in Bondo Gulch on the 51 job.
 

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Seems to be extremely solid still, but I guess time will tell?
Yea time will tell. I just repaired the heater control switch in the Mazda b2600i the other day, heating up and cooling off one to many times was all it took to kill the plastic part. I have saw plastic bumpers get a little hit and looked ok but when they got hit again they just crumble.
 

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I've been tinkering with mounting the new refrigerator in the camper finally. Started with the same mounting brackets that I used on the old one. I had drilled holes in the sides and screwed L-brackets to it, then screwed that to the wooden frame. The first three holes went fine. Hole four? Not so much. Let's just say that I found the cooling coil for the freezer section. Duh. Not my finest moment. I've ordered a replacement, and am working on an alternate method of securing the fridge in the cabinet now.

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I will endevour to persevere
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Ya know I had to replace a refrigerator in a Class A motorhome. First problem was getting the fridge through the door The new fridge was too big. I finally took the front seats and steering column out and came in the drivers access door. I don't envy your task...
 

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Ya know I had to replace a refrigerator in a Class A motorhome. First problem was getting the fridge through the door The new fridge was too big. I finally took the front seats and steering column out and came in the drivers access door. I don't envy your task...
I have to take the doors and hinge brackets off of the fridge to get it through the door. That's the easy part. I think I have a solution, though. I'll get out there and do more checking later today.

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Finished up the brakes on the 91 s10.
Took the thing down the road and used all 90hp to bring it to 100 mph. The thing runs and rides great. It will be a great 55/75 mph cruiser.

But it was still 5 colors. The previous owner had a sponge bob square pants steering wheel cover that she color matched then spray painted the truck.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


Now this is a winter beater driver. The drivetrain is solid and bulletproof. But, the bed is dented beyond repair, the doors are both hit, the fenders rusted, the grill cracked leaving me with a useable hood and cowl.

So it is getting the rollie pollie paint job that my other rusted out beyond repair 87 v10 has.

This primer is for fences.
Tin Aluminum can Tin can Beverage can Fluid

The paint is for fences.
Fluid Automotive tire Drink Drinkware Gas

3 years on the 87 and no signs of additional rust. I thinned the primer/ paint on the 87.
With this s10 I just used hardner and a gallon of primer/paint will be enough to cover the girl.

Finished painting the first primer layer. Going to wait 6 hours then apply a 2nd layer in the morning.

Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Hood


Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood
 

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Spent the last couple days helping a young friend get his '78 Nova Rally Sport running after 12 years of sitting! He bought the Nova back in the 1980's and said it belonged to a neighbor who bought it new in '78! He was just a kid then, and when he was old enough to drive he bought the Nova.
It's got a 305 and factory 4 speed, and the original red paint is wearing thin, but still looks pretty good! Only 22,000 original miles on the odometer too! He's been wanting to find someone to get it running and road worthy, but most wanted to much money. I'm charging him next to nothing, just because I want to help him get it driving again.
I tossed the old 600 cfm Holley 1850, and replaced it with a new Holley Avenger series 570cfm carb. Drained the nasty old oil, and put new oil and filter on it. New cap, rotor, and plugs. Used my endoscope to check the cylinders, and look down into the dry gas tank. All looked good, so I squirted some Marvel Mystery Oil in each spark plug hole, and spun it over with the ignition disconnected, and fuel pump lines removed. Then stuck the new plugs in it, and put a new fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump.
Dumped 3 gallons of gas in the tank, and a splash in the new carb, and had him hit the key. It didn't get a full revolution and fired right off! Ran great until it ran out of gas. Two more shots of gas and it kept running on it's own, and purred like a kitten!
Once it warmed up I set float levels on the Holley carb, adjusted the 4 corner metering screws, and it ran even better. Still need to go through all the brakes before he can actually drive it, but we were both pretty excited about how nice it's running! Hopefully after replacing the bad master cylinder, and maybe redoing wheel cylinders in back, and brakes all around, he can take it for it's first spin in 12 years!
 

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I have had a few of those where when you pull the valve covers you have cake. I cleaned out a 78 TA with a butter knife and shop vac.

One thing you may want to check is the valve seals. My 87 v10 only has 107k on it but it did alot of sitting and the valve seals are causing blow by. It uses a quart every 200miles. One of those I dont drive it enough and am willing to wait till something major goes to just replace the $300 tbi engine.
 

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I worked on the refrigerator trim for my camper today. The trim is cut, fitted, sanded and has the first coat of paint. It will get another coat tomorrow sometime.
The quest for the correct colors for the Coverlay dash cover in my bride's Solara continues. I gave up on finding a match for the upper dash color, and I have resigned myself to a total re-do of the color on the upper dash, upper door panels, and the upper panels by the back seat. Nothing that I already had really looked right, so I ordered a couple more cans of what is more brown than what I already have. I think I have a game plan for the lower dash section, too. Experiment on that tomorrow, I think.

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Threw the new mirriors and taillights on the s10. Then drove the truck down and had a new windshield put in. Came back put the cowl on and new wiper/arms.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Car Vehicle


Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Hood


The thing is running good but it sounded like a sewing machine.

So I figured I would zero out the valve springs before giving them a 3/4 turn.

I had one that was being a bit stuborn and should have known. But meh kept going and broke a bolt off in the head.
Head Eye Wood Artifact Sculpture


Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold


I will spend the rest of the night ordering new parts as well as a extraction kit. I think I only had around 40 or so ft lbs when it broke off. I shot a bit of pentrating lube on the sheared bolt for good measure.

What I get for using old hardware.
 

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Threw the new mirriors and taillights on the s10. Then drove the truck down and had a new windshield put in. Came back put the cowl on and new wiper/arms. View attachment 620198

View attachment 620199

The thing is running good but it sounded like a sewing machine.

So I figured I would zero out the valve springs before giving them a 3/4 turn.

I had one that was being a bit stuborn and should have known. But meh kept going and broke a bolt off in the head.
View attachment 620201

View attachment 620202

I will spend the rest of the night ordering new parts as well as a extraction kit. I think I only had around 40 or so ft lbs when it broke off. I shot a bit of pentrating lube on the sheared bolt for good measure.

What I get for using old hardware.
Good luck with the extractor. I have never had one of those work very well. :mad:
 

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1964 Thunderbird, 390 FE
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260 Posts
Threw the new mirriors and taillights on the s10. Then drove the truck down and had a new windshield put in. Came back put the cowl on and new wiper/arms. View attachment 620198

View attachment 620199

The thing is running good but it sounded like a sewing machine.

So I figured I would zero out the valve springs before giving them a 3/4 turn.

I had one that was being a bit stuborn and should have known. But meh kept going and broke a bolt off in the head.
View attachment 620201

View attachment 620202

I will spend the rest of the night ordering new parts as well as a extraction kit. I think I only had around 40 or so ft lbs when it broke off. I shot a bit of pentrating lube on the sheared bolt for good measure.

What I get for using old hardware.
Too bad on that bolt, but it's looking really good for what it is!
 

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Got my friend's Nova up in the air, and replaced front disc brake pads. Sanded the rotors as they looked perfect, except for surface rust on rotors. Back brakes are a mess, and will need a complete rebuild of wheel cylinders, and shoes. Drums can be reused, once they're flushed good with brake cleaner to get rid of all the brake fluid that leaked inside the drums!
Put a new master on also, just because we figured it should all be new if we're going this far. Hope to rebuild the wheel cylinders tomorrow, and get the brakes assembled. Then he can take it on it's first drive in 12 years in the next day or two.
 
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