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I had only got one photo today, been busy with work, and setting the rear axle nice and square. Luckily the mount did not break, just the axle decided it wanted a bit of rear stear action. But anyway here is a photo of a bit of the damage up front from plowing though a bunch of sage brush, the lens is missing and the little mounts gave up on the grill. The plate got a little bent up and also have a small gas leak which is fixed. Tomorrow I will rob the side marker lens off the 92 b2200 tomorrow along with proper bolts. I will also need to fix a few small cracks in the grill soon, along with an alignment. Those side by sides were hard to keep ahead of. Sorry for not having many photos, it is more important to keep the daily up and going. The Butchered Series is not of huge importance to me.

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I had only got one photo today, been busy with work, and setting the rear axle nice and square. Luckily the mount did not break, just the axle decided it wanted a bit of rear stear action. But anyway here is a photo of a bit of the damage up front from plowing though a bunch of sage brush, the lens is missing and the little mounts gave up on the grill. The plate got a little bent up and also have a small gas leak which is fixed. Tomorrow I will rob the side marker lens off the 92 b2200 tomorrow along with proper bolts. I will also need to fix a few small cracks in the grill soon, along with an alignment. Those side by sides were hard to keep ahead of. Sorry for not having many photos, it is more important to keep the daily up and going. The Butchered Series is not of huge importance to me.

View attachment 625748
Not going to trust self tapping screws to hold in plastic anymore, I belive that is why I am missing the lens.
 

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Well, yesterday I decided to touch-up my Chevy truck's 350 engine for an upcoming car show. The front of one cylinder head looked like crap, so I unbolted and moved a bunch of things out of the way. Several hours after paint, I started to put things back together, but ran into a bind on the water pump/head bracket. Ended up having to loosen all the compressor mounting bolts.

Now that things lined up, I determined that the top bolt was only engaging 4 threads, so I searched for a bolt that was 1/4" longer. But all I could find were bolts in 1/2" increments. I was getting ready to cut and grind down a longer bolt, but finally found the length I needed at the bottom of another parts drawer, so was able to get things buttoned up. (Note to self: Buy some 1-3/4", 2-1/4", and 2-3/4" bolts from BoltDepot.com.)

The project took about an hour from start to completing the paint, but around 2 hours to put things back together! :oops:

Doesn't look like it would be that hard to do, does it?

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I bought a 91 cab and chassis squarebody a while back to use as a tow pig for cars and light trucks. But I have a issue with the breaks. I need to get real creative to bleed these wheel cylinders due to the leaf pack size giving me 1/2" to work with.

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The narrow cab and chassis has a wheel mounting surface of 63" while the standard is 67". The only diffrence between the narrow 14 bolt and a standard 14 bolt is the hubs and the backing plate.

You can convert one to the other easily enough if you have the parts.

But to convert a narrow to a standard I would have almost $600 in new parts(not including brakes). Thats rock auto prices it would be even more elsewhere.

So I find this standard width for $150 and I jumped on it.

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Thing has a newer brake line and I would not be surprised to find newer hardware inside those mostly surface rusted drums. Spare rims, and tires that hold air with some leafs that are a few leafs shy of whats bolted up to the narrow. But the leaf and bushings are in better condition and I am not hauling sod stacked to the roof like the previous guy was so I can spare the standard 1 ton leaf pack.

The plan is to unbolt the old bushing bolts and cut the flexible hose .

Wheel the old narrow out with leafs attached.

Wheel the standard in with leafs attached.

Install new Bushing bolts, new flexible brake line and after looking over maybe refreshing the brakes to be ready to sell the narrow without the rims(keeping the rims) for $150.


Unloading that thing tomorrow and thats spring project to run next summer that may only see 3-6000 miles a year(8mpg). But I am happy I was able to get a axle for the thing sorted out.
 

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Installed new coils and the fronend now has the proper spring rate. Now that frontend height is set I know exactly how long crossover steering draglink linkage will need to be.
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After lots of checking with the smaller 13" wheel and mocking up how I would mount the steering reverser box I cut my steering linkage and mocked it up for welding.

Getting a few hours of sleep before practicing on a piece of junk steering linkage checking the pentration of the welds before welding up the actual linkage that obvoiusly cant be completly removed from the firewall at this point.
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I was finally able to take care of the lower portion of the rocker panels on the cool car today. I noticed some flaking paint and surface rust starting on the pass side, and a couple of loose spots on the driver side. I cringed a little when I hit it with the scotch Brite looking stripper disk... Taped it off, scuffed the rest, and shot them with some rattle can bed liner spray. You have to lean over and look for it once it's on ground level again. I wanted to get that done before the weather changed again. I have an appointment to get the tailpipes run on Friday morning.
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Got the pile of scrap metal running, for having over half a million miles and also sitting for 5 years it runs fairly well. Running a little lean because the fuel filter is plugged up well. Did a burnout and found out the rear diff has a bit of noise. Next step is getting the clutch to work properly and see what I need to do to the rear diff.
 

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Finished up installing my steering reverser and adding a few gusset rods. Lots more room with the 13" steering wheel
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Now that the front suspension height is finally correct and the thing steering the right way I moved onto checking the linkage.
Straight on

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Full lock Left
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Full lock Right

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Cool. I don't have to bend any of the 1.5x.25 DOM.
 

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Went around to different tire shops looking for people willing to put the tires from 06 on but stupid safety issues are a pain. When they were willing they would not touch them because of them being 14 inch rims. The tires I did get on took over an hour a piece and did not take long to blow them up. Tomorrow I will just by new tires and not do to many burnouts. With that there goes the $300 dollar budget.
 

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Accomplishments:

Throw 205 diameter tires on out back, with 185s up front. ✔

Drive the pile to the shop. X

Not get to drive it because starter is failing. ✔

Find out that the winch once again is not working to the company trailer. ✔

Wonder what the point is to having a rusted out come- along is in on the trailer. ✔

Drag the butchered series pickup onto the trailer with tie down straps. ✔

Drop off interior at the dump. ✔

Eliminate charcoal canister and original carb. ✔

Start the process of moving the radiator. ✔

Find some steel for intake. X

Get pissed because one thing after another quits working. ✔✔✔✔✔
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Oh, the joys of playing with old automotive stuff, ha......
I still don't know why I love working on scrap piles, can't wait to give the guy $2000 for a 52 5 window, or $800 for a 66 elco with a 454, 64 ford station wagon a guy just wants taken away... I see no financial stability in the future. Once I get back from a mission and have a bit of cash I will be spending a bit to get some road hazard daily drivers or week end racers.
 

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Where trust issues begin... I scored a deal on a mint condition shell for the Butchered Series. For $50 but it completed the look. I have used a bunch of parts off the 92 to finish my daily, about $75 worth of parts along with selling a few parts of the interior to a friend for $60. Still have a bit left of the $300 budget. Tires are not getting counted because as Compressions 8:1 reads, "Tires are that they may be burned."
I will get to building the intake here soon along with looking for a new radiator that is a bit narrower to get out of the way of the rod ejection machine.
Damn she ugly
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I put new plugs and wires in the ‘16 Corvette. The you tubes say it was necessary to remove all the electrical stuff and the plastic box on the right side. It’s not necessary with the proper tools access is tight but doable. Only the top 4 plastic covers need come off. True the left side is a lot easier access but the right side just requires a bit of trips back and forth to the tool box for the tools fitting in those tight spaces. I wanted to avoid the battery disconnection and the required reloading/programming for the computer due to it being disconnected.

I checked all the old plugs and wires for resistance and all plugs and wires were high ohms. All is well now and the slight miss is gone.
 

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Went to go find some steal during my lunch break, got the old intake off because the angles suck.
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Long story short I could not find the right stuff at the scrap yard in the hour long lunch break.
 

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Finally took the 57 to get the tailpipes run this morning. We had to do a little tweaking on the sway bar brackets and the brake line bracket, but they're in there. I like the look of the Chevelle SS tips on this car. Pics tomorrow... I'm pooped after replacing inner and outer tie rods and changing the oil in the hooptie van.

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Picked up some tires on rims for my deep snow 87 v10 to replace the ones that are drycracked.
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I had a 01 2500HD automatic 4x4 with around 320k on the engine. I bought a much simplier 2wd manual 1 ton to replace it and I decided I would just get rid of the 2500 then mess with trying to part it out.
I wanted cash because frankly I dont need a 4th project.
But, the guy offred me a old amc and i'm a sucker for old rides.
It is a 87 Jeep Grand Wagoneer mostly stock as far as I can tell with 110k and the guy was driving it.

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So out with one and in with another. I am hoping to just do fluids and give it a good detail to double the cash I was looking for with the 2500.

Let the next guy swap out the smog carburated(87 still had carb) 360 for a 5.3ls in front of the 727 to double the mileage and almost triple the horsepower.

I could put 8-9k into it(5.3, rust/paint, interior, etc) and may realistically sell it for 13-15k. Or I could just let it go for 3-4k as it sits and let the next person do it how they want.

Clicking option B soon as I get the title in my name.
 
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