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I've been trying to track down a slight vibration in my truck. I rebuilt the drive shaft a while back, and that took care of most of it. The other night I put the truck up on the lift and removed the rear wheels and ran it up through the gears. Smooth as silk, so the issue must be in the wheels/tires. I'm almost positive that it's actually the wheels. They are aftermarket lug-centric rally wheels, and I had to send two back when I bought them about 5 years ago. They were really off center and made for a terrible vibration. The current vibration is very faint, not terrible, but it can be felt in the seat, not the steering. I guess I'll be on the hunt for a good deal on another set of wheels.

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I hope you build it back to Super Stock specs that is what VIN shows,,the low miles are 1/4 mile at a time..if picture will post this is how it was delivered to the dealer in 68 mRace preped ,buyer had to paint it ,
The only thing that I found that was not stock on it is the yellow paint. I already got it running. I have about 280ish miles on it now. May have also raced a 2016 Camaro. I don't belive it only puts out 425hp. It has more go then that. Feels like a sin to drive it let alone bang shift that 4sp.
 

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Went to a gas station to grab a quick drink. Came back out a guy was dusting my perfect dust off. And scratched the yellow paint down to the black on the drivers side. He should have played around with all the cobwebs under it.
 

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You have lots of options of pre bent kits for that pickup.

Depending on what the goal is and if you need to follow a set of requirements a welder, a grinder, and a kit will provide you a cage that will survive a roll or three.

Start with any restrictions/rules then look at the many diffrent pickup cage types.
 

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I've been trying to track down a slight vibration in my truck. I rebuilt the drive shaft a while back, and that took care of most of it. The other night I put the truck up on the lift and removed the rear wheels and ran it up through the gears. Smooth as silk, so the issue must be in the wheels/tires. I'm almost positive that it's actually the wheels. They are aftermarket lug-centric rally wheels, and I had to send two back when I bought them about 5 years ago. They were really off center and made for a terrible vibration. The current vibration is very faint, not terrible, but it can be felt in the seat, not the steering. I guess I'll be on the hunt for a good deal on another set of wheels.

Sent from my SM-A716V using Tapatalk
The 425 HP rating was a joke it would do that with 2 plug wires off, the low rating was to meet insurance regulations when that engine was installed in a street car sold to the public,
 

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You have lots of options of pre bent kits for that pickup.

Depending on what the goal is and if you need to follow a set of requirements a welder, a grinder, and a kit will provide you a cage that will survive a roll or three.

Start with any restrictions/rules then look at the many diffrent pickup cage types.
Already I have a guy doing a 10point or larger cage for it. Want to know it will do its job.
 

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No pics today. Today was day two on Leia (1961 Vanden Plas "4 Litre Princess" limousine with Rolls Royce bodywork) front suspension, steering and wheel bearings. Got the right side "Armstrong lever hydraulic damper" off the car and off the kingpin carrier. Some numb nuts booger welded the top fulcrum pin to the arm on the damper. I'm going to have to grind off the welds and knock that pin out before sending it off to Peter up at World Wide Parts in Madison WI for a rebuild to "better than new." Now I'm working on the right side today. It's also going to have issues with the upper fulcrum pin once I get it loose. The pin on this side is about 2 inches too long, and booger welded to the arm as well.

I've also been slowly working the remaining thermostat housing bolt back and forth on the GM 4.3L Vortec V6 in this one. It turns about a quarter turn now before hitting a "stop". Been soaking it in Blaster for an hour or so while working on the suspension, then going back and wiggling it some, spraying it with the Blaster again and going back to the suspension. I do not want to break that stud off in the intake on this one. BTDT, and it's no fun to fix. Not horrible, but not something I want to repeat.

I'm still not 100% sure how I'm going to release the tension on the coil springs safely to get the lower wishbones out. There's a Vanden Plas special tool, 18G76 Front Suspension Spring Compressor. Might be in the Austin special tools as well, but I don't have one of those, and I don't think I can source one. Today I got some longer bolts for the lower spring seat plate. Tomorrow, I'm going to try to lower the lower spring seat a little at a time with the longer bolts until the tension is released (hopefully all the way released). I'm hoping that will do the job.
 

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I made a mess tearing apart a 2.5 that had a wiped cam lobe. Just make scrapping it easier as the block only weighs around 250lbs now.
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Throttlebody/intake, head/exhaust, ps delete bracket, flywheel, and clutch are being saved.
 

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Finished up the tubing of my "one off" geo metro convertable roll bar.

Need to add gussets from bar to body next and clean/smooth out a few exposed areas. But this roll bar tubing portion is done. One of those things. Its not me and the 50hp this beast puts out that this is built for. It is built for the person on their phone that pushes this 1900lb pile down a hill and onto its roof.

It is designed for convience overall. Still letting me easily see out the back window, tilt the seats back, and keep the seatbelts in the stock position.

Vehicle Car Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design


Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire


Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Tire
 

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Built a brace plate for the roll bar More to cover up the old speaker etc holes. But I used 18 gauge and welded 40 to 50 1/8 to 1/4 tacks on the body and then welded the bottom to the rollbar.

Needed groceries and picked up some bondo with glass mixed in also some primer and paint. Cheaper then amazon for a change and was in front of me. That is a win.

Went a bit nuts the first time.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Gas Bumper


Sanded that via grinder after 2 hours
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire Yellow


Then applied a skim coat with a little less hardener to give me 10 minutes to really play with things.
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


That is drying currently and I will play with it this weekend. Going to be lots of curves and hand sanding. Will use 80 where thicker then 180 over most of it before 320 and 400 blending into paint.
 
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