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This is my build:
355
Holley 650DP
RPM Air Gap
AFR 195cc heads
10.325 compression
Com cam XE 274 (230/236 @ 50, 487/490 lft) on a 110.
1.6 roller rockers - intake only
Hooker 1 3/4" super comps
Dr gas X pipe - 3"into x 2.5 out to flowmaster 40 series
Muncie M20
4:10 rear

I may do a rebuild on this motor and I may consider stroking it.

1) What type of HP & TQ would I get with the above components.
2) What are the drawbacks to stroking a motor?
 

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Your combo sounds pretty good, I would go with a 750 carb though. 6000-6500 is no problem for that motor. There are really no drawbacks to making a 383 out of a 355 besides the clearancing if there is even any to do. I just had a motor built that is almost exactly what you are thinking about. The only difference is that i went with a 230 230 @.050 .560 .560 lift hyd roller cam and a 750 race demon carb. I will get the motor back on oct. 2nd. I can tell you then how my motor worked out.

Adam
 

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Time is short, are you ready?
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Go with a 383 Hydraulic Roller!

killerformula said:
This is an American Speed engine. You can see the same information at Air Flow Research's website. This engine uses a Comp Cams' 12-433-8 Hyd Roller Cam. I used this engine build as a model for my stroker. However, I opted for the new Edelbrock Performer RPM hydraulic roller cam due to its 112 lsa (better for fuel injection). You can get it for $219.95 at Summit - #EDL-2201 The specs are (296/300 Adv. Dur.; 234/238 @ .050; .539”/.558” lift; 112 lsa installed @ 107 intake CL). Howards Cams makes an economically priced set of retrofit hydraulic roller lifters for about $300.00. Get some 7.300" pushrods (Comp Cams #7809-16 is the cheapest at $35.95), and a thrust button and you are all set.

I will never regret spending the money on a hydraulic roller cam. You do not have to worry about breaking it in and there are HP benefits as well. Good luck, Ed www.edgesz28.com

__________________________________________________
Who is Jesus?.:)
 

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TCAMARO said:
This is my build:
355
Holley 650DP
RPM Air Gap
AFR 195cc heads
10.325 compression
Com cam XE 274 (230/236 @ 50, 487/490 lft) on a 110.
1.6 roller rockers - intake only
Hooker 1 3/4" super comps
Dr gas X pipe - 3"into x 2.5 out to flowmaster 40 series
Muncie M20
4:10 rear

I may do a rebuild on this motor and I may consider stroking it.

1) What type of HP & TQ would I get with the above components.
2) What are the drawbacks to stroking a motor?

Personally I don't think the added stroke is enough difference to bother especially with a higher winding combo such is this not to mention the disadvanages
 

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Pure American Muscle
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684 Posts
I would fully disagree with that. Stroking an engine is one of the best power making things you can do. For the going price of kits that rebuild a 350 (355...since you almost always bore over on the engine durning rebuild + you already have this done) are only a few hundred off that of a 383 both having good parts. Doing something as simple as this for the cost is a great idea. Anyone will tell you a 383 set up kicks some major butt. The added stroke ups the TQ while still leaving you a nice running street engine. + you already have good heads picked out for a stroker and the rest of the parts will work might have to work out the cam a little and find the right one as the added CID can eat a little more cam then a 350.
Look at this way for HP per $ a 350 loses to a 383

If you don't mind grinding a little then I say put a 383 kit in it and have fun with all the added TQ!


Good luck
 

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strikingthematch said:
I would fully disagree with that. Stroking an engine is one of the best power making things you can do. For the going price of kits that rebuild a 350 (355...since you almost always bore over on the engine durning rebuild) are only a few hundred off that of a 383 both having good parts. Doing something as simple as this for the cost is a great idea. Anyone will tell you a 383 set up kicks some major butt. The added stroke up the TQ while still leaving you a nice running street engine.

If you don't mind grinding a little then I say put a 383 kit in it and have fun with all the added TQ!


Good luck
Anyone?? you mean you. The 383 I feel is getting a little over rated they are ok for the right application but for high rpm use will make little more hp over a 350. I am generally a big believer in more cubic inches how ever in this case I don't feel its worth it. You consiter changing the crank pistons and rods simple? There are alot better ways of gaining hp than stroking it 28 ci more
 

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I would have to agree that stroking a 355 to a 383 is a good idea also. As was mentioned before, when you are already buying aftermarket parts, a 383 will cost little more than a 355. The 28 CI improvement is not the only benefit as far as power goes. That additional stroke will give you signifigantly more torque. It is the same as using a longer wrench to turn a bolt; with the same force, you will get more torque. A stroked crank has the same effect in your motor.

Adam
 

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Pure American Muscle
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Not only price but you also have to think about the RPM bands here a 350 will have to turn higher to make the same TQ and HP that a 383 does. I have seen plenty of dyno test where a 383 makes close to 400 lb of TQ right past 2500 or 3000 RPM's. That added stroke is really worth it and not only that but think of all the other stroker motors... I guess they wouldn't be worth it either. There is a reason people stroke engines or started stroking them. I think that with prices the way they are and todays great parts doing something like that has become common place more often then it used to.
Given that not all 383's are the same and many things play a role in how much TQ and HP they make but I would say that one of a 350's blocks best parts is being able to be turned into a 383. Thats not just my thinking all you have to do is look at the numbers and RPM's I think they say it all.

Chris
 

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Every time I have had a 383 built, I have had the short block assembeled by an engine shop, so they have always done the clearancing. I have heard that one way to do it is to install the crank in the block with the rods attached, and turn the crank until it hits something, where ever it hits, grind away until it doesnt hit anymore. I have never done that, so I would get another opinion before going out and doing it. You may have to do it one rod at a time.

Good luck,
Adam
 

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Pure American Muscle
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The outside of the block will remain the same. What gets grinded is the oil pan rail mostly. Some guys never have problems with this and others do. Stick the crank in the block and clearance the oil pan rail or anything else that hits. It would be a good idea to then do a dry assembly and check everything again. Checking for a clearance of .05 is the normal clearance used.
More then likely you will find slight problems along the oil pan rail and will have to use a DIE grinder to notch out enough space for the crank to fit.
Some people say they have problems with rod caps and bolts hitting the cam and need small base circle cams. Though it seems this is in the minority of engines built and a normal cam will work fine. If you have any doubts talk to the cam. company and see if they have anything to say.
Lastly at the bottom of the piston bores sometimes though very few seem to go this way there will be a small problem there.

All in all some time with the grinder and your good to go.
Most kits such a Eagle kits with their rods and crank are in really good shape and less clearance problems are found. Scat is also very good.


Good luck!
 

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firestone said:
I would have to agree that stroking a 355 to a 383 is a good idea also. As was mentioned before, when you are already buying aftermarket parts, a 383 will cost little more than a 355. The 28 CI improvement is not the only benefit as far as power goes. That additional stroke will give you signifigantly more torque. It is the same as using a longer wrench to turn a bolt; with the same force, you will get more torque. A stroked crank has the same effect in your motor.

Adam
If only things were that simple:rolleyes:
 

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Here is a site that has alot of dynoed combos that are in the RPM range that you are considering. You can compare the differences in hp and tq between 355's and 383's with similar components.

Adam

Compare combo 14 and combo 16. They have the exact same cam, heads, intake, carb, and compression the only signifigant difference is that one is a 383 and one is a 355. Also, the cam being used has the same duration as the one you are looking at, it is just a roller.

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html


Here is a decient page about strokers

http://www.dallasexportsales.com/

Here is an article on a 383 stroker build up

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cach...wto/40619/+building+a+383+stroker+motor&hl=en
 
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