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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ordered a 9” inch housing axle kit and a 3rd member with the Truetrac from Quick Performance. I went out to the shop this morning going to start putting the rear-end together.

Well, when I started trying to press the third member bolts into the housing, they don’t want to press in. I put a couple of washers on the bolt and tried tightening it down but the nut gets almost too tight to turn before the head of the bolt reaches the housing. Then on one of the bolts when I was trying to take the nut off, I actually broke the bolt. I believe the problem is there is a build up of powder coating inside the holes. I’m considering running a drill through each hole to clean off the powder coating to see if that helps. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Also, does anyone know the exact size drill bit I would need so as to not open the holes up too much?
 

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I had the same setup from QP a few years back. I used a stack of washers with moly lube between them (plus the threads) and used an impact wrench to rattle them in. Even so, some of the washers were deformed from the stress but nothing broke.

Russ
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinking I may need to order a different set of bolts. On the third bolt, when trying to tighten it down, the threads actually started to strip. But thanks for the response.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I said bolts, but they are the third member studs that QP sent with the housing. And I do have a set of copper washers to put on once the third member is installed.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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You really need to check the press fit on those if you have the tools.
I use a 2 1/8 thick grade 8 washers and a little dab of grease between them with 3/8x24 grade 5 nuts and a impact gun. The nuts are softer so they will fail first.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's similar to what I did. I had a 3/8x24 grade 8 nut but I didn't have the thick washers. I had about four of the thinner washers. I didn't use an impact nor did I put grease between the washers. When I get home, I'm going to give it another try with the impact. I also read that it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a little non-hardening gasket maker on the splines.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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If the press fit is right it won't have a space to leak and the gasket goes all the way around the studs.
A little dab of sealer wouldn't hurt anything, I just doubt the benefit.
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was talking about this on another forum and someone posted that they didn't believe the powder coating in the holes would have that much affect on the studs being pressed in.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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A standard press fit on splines is .005 and the powder coating can be .005-.010 thick so yes.....Powder Coat and paint can make the press fit a bit too small and make things really hard to push in, in this case, your pulling the stud though.
The stud holes aren't splined, the studs themselves are your basically needing to apply enough pressure to deform the metal around hole, IE, push the metal around to make the stud fit. A reguler bristle brush probably isn't stiff enough to remove the coating. A properly sized drill bit will do the job but care must be taken NOT to make the hole bigger or oblong. A wire brush on a drill, a carbide burr, or a sanding cartridge will all work too just be careful not to remove metal.
I've had to weld the heads to the inside of housing before because the studs lost the press fit and that's a pain the as.....
 

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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the advice. I have a small wire wheel brush that fits in a dremel that I can use. I believe using the dremel on a low speed will give me enough to remove the powder coat without taking any metal off. I didnt get around to doing anything yesterday because as soon as I pulled in the driveway, my daughter pulled in behind me with my 2yr. old grand-daughter and she spent all evening with grandpa. But I did swing by Tractor Supply on my way home and picked up a 3/8 x 3/4 x 1/2 spacer. I think that will work a little better than the washers.
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"Drive It Until It Breaks"
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I finally got the rear-end put together, but something has me a little curious. So everything I've read say that the center piece should be torqued down to about 40lbs/ft. This doesnt seem very tight! I torqued both the center piece and the backing plate bolts to 40lbs/ft. Does that sound like the right torque specs?
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Yes. 35 to 45lbs.

To much torque can crack the case. The use of the copper washers was more to prevent leaks. But you should use some kind of washer even if your placing rtv around the threads to keep the nuts from digging into the case.
 
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