This may sound like a REAL STUPID question

2409 Views 18 Replies 8 Participants Last post by woodz428, Jun 11, 2003

Nos

Discussion Starter · Jun 4, 2003

ok im trying to take my front parts of my truck ( 1965 chevy pick-up )appart.. like the left and right front fenders... and replace my inner fenders ( you know the thing that the battery sits on so i can add in my new ones)

.. well i want to do that to replace the inner fenders both left and right.. and clean the frame up a bit.. but i have a few bolts underneath in the wheel wells up front that hold the inner fenders to the outts fenders and the grill together... i cant get them darn bolts to budge off .. i dont want to mess anything up .. it looks like the Truck has a ruff coating of something like a "rino coat" underneath .. i think thats why its so hard to get it off.. whats the best way to get a bolt like that off?.. lol it keeps bugging me.. this is one hell of a knuckle buster!
thanks
Nos

[ June 04, 2003: Message edited by: Nos ]

[ June 04, 2003: Message edited by: Nos ]</p>

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

[email protected]

· #2 · Jun 4, 2003

Your fenders are undercoated. Usually a dealer option on new cars that they charged $$$$$$$$$$ for. You just need to get rough with the bolts, no easy way around it. They are probably corroded as well as gobbed up with tar. Can you get a small wire wheel on your drill up there? That would knock off the tar and shine the bolt heads so your wrench will go right on.

Nos

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 4, 2003

im not sure.. its like a 4 inch space .. its really makein me mad.. thanks for replying.. ill try to shine them up and see.. anything else?

[email protected]

· #4 · Jun 4, 2003

If you can't get the power wire wheel in the space you could stuff a rag soaked in paint thinner in the space over the bolts and leave it over night. When you come back the next day, the tar will be liquified (but VERY messy) and wipe right out exposing the bolts for easy removal.

Nos

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jun 4, 2003

sounds good.. will gas work?.. what kind of paint thinner?

akm

· #6 · Jun 4, 2003

there is a type of impact screw driver(or something like that) that you hit with a hammer and it turns slightly to break bolts loose. does anyone know what i'm talking about?

TurboS10

· #7 · Jun 4, 2003

Originally posted by Nos:
<strong>sounds good.. will gas work?.. what kind of paint thinner?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Laquor Thinner should be plenty hot, and.......lets not use gasoline as a solvent.

Chris

Nos

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 4, 2003

ok gasoline is out of the ?.. akm im sorry i have no idea what your talking about.. you got a '65 right? .. im trying to get the bolts off right undder the front tires by the inner fender.. then i think the thing should come right off.. but them darn bolts wont budge.. ill have to try that paint thinner.. inless akm you can explaine to me what that thing is or can i like saw the bolts off or something.. then go buy some new ones! if thers a good cheep place to buy them.. if possaible.. thanks!
Nos

[email protected]

· #9 · Jun 5, 2003

Gas and lacquer thinner would both work better as a tar solvent but they are both quite flammable and will evaporate before the tar is soft. Paint thinner is a good alternative solvent. A soaked rag will stay wet a long time giving more exposure of the solvent to the tar and over night, it should totally penetrate and soften the coating.

Nos

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 5, 2003

ok ill try that.. someone else i asked if i just heat the bolt with a small torch it would come right out.. will that be ok?.. i mean the bolt is here ---> [|==== <---- and he said to heat this side for like 3 seconds and it should come right out with a wrench.. think that will work?.. it sounds like it will.. what do you guys think?

babyface

· #11 · Jun 5, 2003

I often resort to heating fasteners to loosen them, sometimes combined with penetrating oil. Heating them with a torch might allow you to burn the goop off too so the oil can get at the threads.

However, you have to be very careful and this isn't something I typically try on body metal, or on things I need to reuse. Works great on exhaust parts though.

Depending on the access and your tools, you can also drill out the center of the fastener. Sometimes you can get the walls thin enough that it will crush or at least deform enough to break loose. I often do this on delicate areas, where I can't risk damaging the surrounding material and I don't care about saving the fastener, but its very time consuming and, if you're too agressive and catch the fastener with the drill, you can sometimes twist the surrounding material, making a bad situation worse.

Personally, I'd try carefully burning off the goop (with a fire extinguisher close by), then alternate heating and spraying WD-40 a couple of times (the oil left on will catch fire with a flame - be ready for it and wipe the surface off first to minimize that.) I'd do all the bolts one at a time, then go back to the first one (since the oil will have started to dissolve in) and try to loosen them. If one or more were still obstinate, I'd just spray some more and go on to the next one. If they still don't budge, I'd spray them liberally and let them sit overnight. Once you've stripped the heads, it'll be a lot harder, no matter what you do. Better to be patient and let the oil and heat do their work. First you have to get the goop off though.

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babyface

· #12 · Jun 5, 2003

One more caveat. Make sure you're always aware of the things behind the item you're heating, if you decide to go that route. For example, if there's a piece of sheet metal behind the bolt, its going to get hot too. If the surface is painted, the paint could burn off. And what's mounted on the other side of that sheet metal? If its plastic, it will melt. If its fiber, it could catch fire. If its a fuel line, you're going to have a lot more problems than stuck bolts.

Be careful. You'll be literally "playing with fire".

Nos

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jun 5, 2003

yea ill keep all that in mind! .. thanks for the help guys.. its been raining all day .. so i dont think i should do it today!.. well thanks again..
anything else i should know?
Laters

Nos

asennad

· #14 · Jun 6, 2003

If you have a plumbers propane torch you can use that to remove the undercoating from the bolts.

Once the goo is gone try soaking the nut in penetrating oil for a day or two.

If that doesn't work heat up the nuts and touch a wax candle to the nut. The heat sucks wax in the threads and can help the nut come off a little easier.

Nos

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 6, 2003

ok... sounds like that could work

CET

· #16 · Jun 6, 2003

Originally posted by akm:
<strong>there is a type of impact screw driver(or something like that) that you hit with a hammer and it turns slightly to break bolts loose. does anyone know what i'm talking about?</strong><hr></blockquote>

You bet. I bought one a few years back to loosen the stripped crankcase bolts on my Suzuki. It only cost about $15 and saved me tons on agravation.

Nos

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jun 6, 2003

really.. whats it called?.. and where do you think i can get one at?..

Nos

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jun 6, 2003

guess what guys?.. i got the bolts off one side.. they only needed a breaker bar to them!

but now tomorrow if its a nice day.. ill try to get the other ones off with the breaker bar.. thers alot of that under coating.. (i dont like it) lol thanks guys ..

Nos

woodz428

· #19 · Jun 11, 2003

Nos, the tool is called a hand impact friver, every Bike mechanic knows what they arem They are primarily used for phillips type case screws but have a 3/8" or 1/2" (depending on the mfg.) drive that you can put a socket on. They sell them at about every tool outlet concievable, from Harbor Freight to Sears.

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