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I've been teasing at the idea of building up a 427 after a friend mentioned he has a block laying around. I have done a quite a bit of research, and decided if I do begin this build, I going all out. This will be my 1st 427 BBC build, I am still a teenager and newish to engine rebuilds. Please forgive me for my lack of knowledge, I'd appreciate any help possible. So to begin, heres what I have in mind.
Before I state anything, I'll be building this then finding something to put it in. My mind is set on a early-mid 80s shortbed. This will be a daily driver/street. EFI was something I'm swaying towards.

Starting with a 427 Tall Deck (10.2) bored over +.060"-over.
Engine Displacement - 496 ci
Compression Height - 1.275 - Deck Clearance - .005
Bore - 4.310” x 4.250” Stroke (*Eagle Lightweight 4340 Crankshaft)

*Scat 6.8" H-Beam Connecting Rods - 1.59 Rod Ratio

*Keith Black Performance Pistons - Hypereutectic Aluminum Flat - 1.27

*Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads - 110cc

*Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam and Lifters
(Advertised Duration 300/306, Lift .560/.573, RPM 1,500-6,500)

*Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold (Dual Plane)
Intake-Runner : 290cc Exhaust-Runner 110cc - RPM 1,500-6,500

*FiTech MeanStreet EFI 800 HP Self-Tuning

ROUGH ESTIMATE - Compression Ratio 9.45:1
Max Safe RMP??
What kinda of horsepower and torque am I looking at here?

If anyone has any suggestions or changes let me know. I'm open to any opinions! Suggestions for parts as well, I can post a link to any of the parts if need be. Thanks!
 

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Starting with a 427 Tall Deck (10.2) bored over +.060"-over. Engine Displacement - 496 ci Compression Height - 1.275 - Deck Clearance - .005 Bore - 4.310” x 4.250” Stroke (*Eagle Lightweight 4340 Crankshaft). Scat 6.8" H-Beam Connecting Rods - 1.59 Rod Ratio
Keith Black Performance Pistons - Hypereutectic Aluminum Flat - 1.27
Your stack of parts measures 10.200" (6.800" + 1.275" + 2.125" = 10.200"), so depending on block deck height (stock 10.200" from the factory), you may or may not have 0.005" piston deck height. You will need to measure the block on all four corners to determine the block deck height that you have to work with. Using a 12" digital or dial caliper, measure from the main bearing bore in the bottom of the block to the deck where the heads bolt on, then add the radius of the main bearing bore to your finding to determine block deck height on all four corners.
http://jamisonequipment.com/sites/default/files/BHM-24-1.gif

*Edelbrock E-Street Cylinder Heads - 110cc
These would be a good choice for building a torquey street motor with the displacement you have chosen. Expect more torque than horsepower.

*Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam and Lifters
(Advertised Duration 300/306, Lift .560/.573, RPM 1,500-6,500)
Two reasons not to use this cam.....big block Chevies will not tolerate a flat tappet camshaft for very long, not with the springs that it will take to keep the lifters on the cam lobes. Use a retrofit hydraulic roller cam and roller lifters. Howards grinds a good cam for a very reasonable price. Buy the lifters from Howards, do not buy some "white box" special lifters that came from "don't know where".

The other reason is that it is the wrong grind for the motor. You cannot just reach out into thin air and choose a camshaft for a motor. The cam is not a stand-alone part. In order for it to perform right in the motor, you must take all other parameters into consideration, and particularly the static compression ratio. The cam you have chosen is a mis-match for 9.45:1 static compression ratio. You need a cam with around 215 degrees intake duration for that SCR, not 240 degrees. That 240 degree cam would be a good fit in a motor with anywhere between 10.5:1 and 12.0:1 static compression ratio, which may or may not work on pump gas.

*Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold (Dual Plane)
Intake-Runner : 290cc Exhaust-Runner 110cc - RPM 1,500-6,500
This is the best street manifold design and will generate more power under curve than any other type manifold. You could also use the Weiand Stealth, part number 8019.

FiTech MeanStreet EFI 800 HP Self-Tuning
I know little or nothing about EFI and I'm unwilling to learn. Someone else will have to help you here.

ROUGH ESTIMATE - Compression Ratio 9.45:1
This would be a good static compression for an iron-headed motor on pump gas. With aluminum heads, you can go up to 10.5:1 on pump gas if you keep the squish/quench tight (0.035" to 0.045"). Can you tell us what the part number is for the piston you chose?

Max Safe RMP??
What kinda of horsepower and torque am I looking at here?
I'm thinkin' you meant RPM's. Don't worry about max rpm's with those heads. The motor will run out of breath long before the crank comes apart. Power shown out of your combination will be a result of your tuning expertise.
 

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camarodriver67
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First of all you do not need to spend extra money on a lightweight crankshaft. Please do a search on this website on the "pros and cons of a lightweight crank". I would only use a Mark IV 427 or 454 block with the 9.8" deck height, but since you have a 427T block use it. Forget about the Hypereutectic Pistons and get a set of forged 20cc dome pistons. Check out these heads from Skip White Performance. Skip White Performance Detail Description You will have about 10.2 compression ratio with a Scat 4.250 forged crank, 6.385 h-beam rods, and 20cc dome pistons. You will have to use aluminum heads. I would purchase this kit, it will save you money. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-42355bi/overview/ Here is where I purchased mine. I was sent the crank balancing bob weight specifications sheet with it because I ordered internal balance. Scat 1-42355BI BB Chevy 496 Competition Balanced Rotating Assembly - 10.5:1 Icon Dome Pistons | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines Contact# (800) 341-1528 Remember when you order parts like the timing chain set tell them it is a tall deck. Check with Weiand I heard they make an intake manifold where you don't have to use spacers. If you run a dual plane with spacers you will need a HEI distributor with a slip collar. For a camshaft use a retro-fit hyd. roller with around 235-240 duration.
 

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If you're not sure about car weight, trans type, and overall gearing, I'd build a versatile engine with an emphasis on mid-range power, and not some high RPM horsepower number. To me, numbers are a by-product of building a solid, well-performing engine. Who cares what the dyno says if you can smoke the tires in second gear and outrun guys with lopey cams?

As mentioned above, the E-Street heads are a mismatch for the cam you listed, but probably just fine for a cam in the duration range recommended by TechInspector.

On another note, I don't see why a flat tappet cam that's not too crazy big can't live with proper break-in using Driven Racing Oil BR30, and then followed up with their HR 10W-30. Driven Racing Oil™ - Performance Oils, Lubricants, & Cleaners
I love their products and responsive support, and even use their assembly grease and HVL assembly lubricant.
 

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On another note, I don't see why a flat tappet cam that's not too crazy big can't live with proper break-in using Driven Racing Oil BR30, and then followed up with their HR 10W-30.
url=http://www.drivenracingoil.com]Driven Racing Oilâ„¢ - Performance Oils, Lubricants, & Cleaners[/url]
I love their products and responsive support, and even use their assembly grease and HVL assembly lubricant.
My advice about using only a roller cam in a BBC is based on information from Pat McCarthy, BBC engine builder guru. Pat will not build a BBC flat tappet motor for a customer unless the customer signs a waiver of responsibility. So, if a professional engine builder of Pat's caliber will not recommend a flat tappet cam in a BBC, I certainly will not either.
Howards makes a very affordable line of hydraulic roller cams for the BBC, so you don't necessarily have to spend an arm and a leg for a roller cam.

Build the motor 9.0:1 or a little higher, use a 215 intake duration hydraulic roller cam and you will have a very enjoyable street driver with tons of grunt. Save the big cam, big static compression ratio, big heads build for the drag strip.

.
 

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Installed an Edelbrock Performer cam & lifters in a 454 earlier this year using existing valve springs that were in the pressure range that Edelbrock wanted. Broke it in with regular oil and Comp Cam #159 break-in additive. Not sure what he's used since then, probably Valvoline VR1 or Lucas oil with high ZDDP levels. Hope the cam lasts! It certainly would in a small block.

I've built several small block Chevy engines with OE-type roller setups, but have not yet done a retrofit roller on an older block. Hope to do one soon.
 

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You could, in theory, use a solid flat tappet cam, with very expensive GM or Crower lifters. However, you won't be saving much money. Buy the roller cam kit
 

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Greyson212;3956218 I am still a teenager and newish to engine rebuilds. Please forgive me for my lack of knowledge said:
On another note, I don't see why a flat tappet cam that's not too crazy big can't live with proper break-in using Driven Racing Oil BR30, and then followed up with their HR 10W-30. Driven Racing Oil™ - Performance Oils, Lubricants, & Cleaners
I love their products and responsive support, and even use their assembly grease and HVL assembly lubricant.
I use Driven oil as well in everything that isn't stock. But Greyson212 made mention that he's not experienced and getting a FT cam to live in a BBC is an unnecessary challenge for a first time builder. And from Tech's response, not for the more experienced either (not saying Tech is old or anything like that:thumbup:). With the Roller comes all of it's advantages - more power with the same duration and lift due to much more aggressive cam profiles, and most importantly - reliability. It's added money until you see the handy work of a FT failure.

Greyson (is this your first name?), the FiTech seems to be the hot thing presently. The reviews I've seen have been nothing but positive and it's EASY!

Not for nothing, you do know this build is going to be salty (expensive)! Other than that, welcome and good lluck.
 
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