Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
The Big Money
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I have a problem with the timing on my 350 Chevy engine. I think who ever put the balancer on it didn't put in on the right postion, pulled my valve covers off the heads, number 1 spark plug removed and bump started the engine. At 90 degrees before TDC both valves were closed and on the power stroke (air pushed out of the number 1 spark plug hole) With the engine running I idle at 32 degrees (sounds strange) with a timing gun hooked up

Any brave souls wanna explain?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,519 Posts
90 degrees is where they should be about closed. There's a difference between being on the compression stroke and being at the exact top of the compression stroke. A ballancer will only go on one way, so it actually sounds pretty money to me.

What RPM are you idling, and how is your vacuum advance hooked up? On a low compression engine, you can run initial timing for days. Is the car hard to start when its warm?

K
 

·
The Big Money
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I idle at around 900 rpm at idle, I'm not running a vacuum advance I got an MSD distributor and it doesn't have one. My 350 has 12:1 compression and when its hot it starts fine.

Thanks
 

·
Glad To Be Here
Joined
·
2,240 Posts
Canadian Charlie said:
I think I have a problem with the timing on my 350 Chevy engine. I think who ever put the balancer on it didn't put in on the right postion, pulled my valve covers off the heads, number 1 spark plug removed and bump started the engine. At 90 degrees before TDC both valves were closed and on the power stroke (air pushed out of the number 1 spark plug hole) With the engine running I idle at 32 degrees (sounds strange) with a timing gun hooked up

Any brave souls wanna explain?
If the vacuum advance hose is connected to the FULL manifold vacuum source AND you haven't disconnected and plugged it when checking the timing at idle; the 32 degrees you see is probably correct. Depending on which vacuum cannister you have and how much vacuum you have at idle, your actual initial timing could be as low as 8 degrees (with a 24 degree cannister and good vacuum at idle).

Always check/set the timing with the vacuum advance hose disconnected from the cannister and plugged off. Re-connect it after you have checked/set the timing.

NOTE: I typed this while you were replying that you did not have vacuum advance. This does not apply to your situation then.

I don't know anything about the MSD system; however, I assume that the distributor only has mechanical advance. Are the return springs missing, broken or too light? If they are, the mechanical advance will begin to come in even at 900 RPM. If the advance is controlled by the MSD box , I have no suggestions.
 

·
The Big Money
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks Frisco, I only have the mechanical advance. Both springs are still there and they are the same springs that were on it when I bought it brand new 10 years ago. Yes the mechanical advance does move when I move it by hand

I have the MSD distributor hooked up to an MSD 6AL box. I also have the MSD Blaster 3 coil, MSD Multi Step Retard and an MSD 2 Step
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top