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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
~ I see a lot of younger guys at the race track wearing gloves to drive, a good idea but usually the wrong type of gloves. Mechanic's type gloves will not protect your hands from fire, if anything they'll add to the problem as they are mostly made of Nylon and Nylon will melt into your skin. Wear gloves, but buy yourself the right ones.

~ Have any electrical connections with screws on them? Wiring strips, toggle switches and connections to ignition system parts are just a few. Take a small tube of clear silicone and cut the tube to the smallest hole you can. Now take and put just a tiny dab next to the screw's head and the mounting. It will keep the screw from coming loose but you can easily remove the dab of silicone if you need to work on the circuit.

~ I am sure you have your own tips to share - let's keep this going and pass on some knowledge to everyone.
 
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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #4
~ A length of fuel line hose can serve as a mechanic's stethoscope and help you zero-in on noises coming from your engine, transmission or rear housing.

~ When working on a situation that has a number of different bolts, either in size or length or both, take a flat piece of cardboard and with a Sharpie draw a rough picture outline. Then as you take out a bolt, punch it into the cardboard to match it's location on the engine. You can go a step further and mark the bolts and their cardboard location with numbers.
 
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OK, I'll play. How about checking driveline angles. It's always hard to find a good place to check pinion angle. I found that my 13/16" deep well craftsmen socket fits perfectly into the pinion yoke. I u-bolt the socket in place of the u-joint, get it vertical and read the angle off the socket. I always keep an extra front DS yoke around to stick in the trans to keep from loosing trans fluid. I found that my 13/16" socket fit the DS yoke, so you can use it to get the trans angle. I use one of those 2"x2" magic cube angle finders.
 

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Fire danger is real.
Don't get your suit all greasy working onto the car.
Don't dry clean too much.
Do wear fireproof underwear and shoes and sock...I know it's hot, fire is hotter.
Do get a SA helmet with current cert.
Gloves are mandatory, most asphalt tracks will black flag you if you get on track without them.
I could go on, I had a couple friends get burned, don't screw around with fire safety.
 

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Carry 2 fire extinguishers. One within reach or the driver one within reach of the passenger.
The second one is for the car that rolled in front of you. But if needed you have it.

Wear a hooded sweat shirt when welding/grinding. This protects your arms from being "sunburnt" and if you flip the hood up then put on the mask prevents those little strays from going down your back.

Do not wear flip flops when using tools. They belong in sand not in the shop.
 

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To the extent of fire, you do not want to wear anything synthetic other than Nomex or other certified fire proof material. Synthetics including mixtures with Spandex, polyester, nylon, rayon, etc. burn and melt into your skin. They really FXXK you up big time. At least cotton which can be made to burn just burns it doesn’t melt into you. Same goes for shoes, sneakers are usually a complex assemblage of flammable and meltable materials, wear leather or Nomex on your feet and no synthetics in your socks.. Even though many classes don’t require this attention to detail when considering the what-ifs, an ounce of prevention is worth your time.

Bogie
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #9
If you do any kind of bodywork or painting, sandpaper is a standard commodity.

#1 Use a file folder to keep your sandpaper in, this will help keep the edges from curling up. You can even use multiple folders to organize the various grits.

#2 Mount a regular hacksaw blade to the front of your workbench with wood screws and a couple of small washers behind the blade. It makes a dandy sandpaper cutter. I have used the same blade for over 30 years now. If you measure from the top or bottom of your bench, you can position the blade to cut the exact size you need for a sanding block.
 
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If your going to lift something do not rely on just 2 contact points. Always have a backup in case one of your main bolts fail.
The same things applies when strapping things down.
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #11
~ Use a magnetic tool tray to keep up with bolts, nuts, wrenches ~ works great underneath the car as it will hold its contents in any position.

~ A 5-6 inch piece of rubber fuel hose is perfect for installing hard to reach spark plugs. Keeps you from cross-threading them.
 
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I used to watch this Porsche mechanic, he'd come up to the counter and ask to borrow some super glue.
He'd put a few drops on a nut and lay the washer on it. He said some of the places he needed to put nuts/ washers on were pretty tight. This way the super glue holds the washer on, until you get it onto the bolt or stud.

Also, when doing body work, when you run your hand over the area that you just repaired, put a paper towel between your hand and the panel. The paper towel will pick up any low or high spots, you might not feel, with a bare hand.
 

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When wet sanding primer , set up a very bright lite aimed nearly parallel to the surface , run your water soaked rag/ sponge on the surface & site down at the lite , the wet reflection will give you a glimpse as to whether your panel is straight or not ...
 

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A piece of masking tape on a nut or bolt head will hold it in the socket/ box end or even open end wrench long enough to position it ..
When using ferrule fittings , don't bottom out the tubing in the fitting , pull it back a bit , that way the ferrule bites evenly into the tubing . also , on large diameter tubing , after " setting" the ferrule , back the nut off & apply " a little " pipe dope , cuts friction when you tighten it.
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #17
~ Changing an oil filter is easier if you punch a small drain hole in the bottom first. Draining the oil from it will reduce the mess and make it easier to handle. This makes a big difference on larger filters.

~ Keep a supply of ziplock baggies in your garage and trailer, they're great for keeping up with small parts, greasing bearings and can be used as a mini-parts washer with a few shots of brake cleaner.
 
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Slow but willing learner
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~ Changing an oil filter is easier if you punch a small drain hole in the bottom first. Draining the oil from it will reduce the mess and make it easier to handle. This makes a big difference on larger filters.

~ Keep a supply of ziplock baggies in your garage and trailer, they're great for keeping up with small parts, greasing bearings and can be used as a mini-parts washer with a few shots of brake cleaner.
Will brake cleaner not desolve a zip lock bag? I wonder about urethane reducer.

John
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter #19
Will brake cleaner not desolve a zip lock bag? I wonder about urethane reducer.

John
Yep - slowly though. You get a bit of time before it leaks. Carb cleaner will cut right through it!
 
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I live by myself, work on junk by myself, and generally keep to myself.
It is a simple life and I like it.

But if things happen having that cell phone on your person or within reach can potentially save you from things getting worse when they do happen. I often use my phone as a radio and wear noise cancling headphones which doubles as ear protection. A wifi extender will let you stream your playlist or radio through your phone in the garage without running up your data.
 
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