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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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I put water and a little diluted dawn soap in a squirt bottle. I quench with that.

I banged areas I really shrunk down and areas that seemed like they were dented inward/ low but weren't directly part of the areas I worked on. If they were inward I figured that might mean they were over shrunk areas.


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Inward if it's an oil can, is still stretched.
If you can get a lot of inward with no oil canning bubbles, then you can carefully slap on dolly to work the shape back upwards.

Over shrunk is good.
Over stretched is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 · (Edited)
The center of the bubble pops inward after like 2 secs on the shrinking disc. I can't explain that. Do I need to shrink that area from the other side? So oil canning is NEVER caused from shrink metal?


When you say I "if I can get gets lot of inward without oil canning..." I lose you. What do you mean? Right now I push down and it oil cans. Sometimes it sticks down like that and I have to press around it to get it to pop back up or press from below.
Another thing I'm fighting is the ospho coat on the metal. I'm gonna clear a lot bigger area off around the bad spot. Maybe the ever so slight shrink or stretched areas will be apparent then. If that doesn't work I really may give up. I'll try this stuff you're suggesting pugsy. Thanks.



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I sure won't lose any respect for you, Schroeder, if you end up with a new skin. See post #3. If nothing else, you have had a valuable adventure in trying your hand at straightening. You may have better luck with panel replacement and you are certainly more qualified to tackle the next dent than you were when you began.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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The center of the bubble pops inward after like 2 secs on the shrinking disc. I can't explain that. Do I need to shrink that area from the other side? So oil canning is NEVER caused from shrink metal?


When you say I "if I can get gets lot of inward without oil canning..." I lose you. What do you mean? Right now I push down and it oil cans. Sometimes it sticks down like that and I have to press around it to get it to pop back up or press from below.
Another thing I'm fighting is the ospho coat on the metal. I'm gonna clear a lot bigger area off around the bad spot. Maybe the ever so slight shrink or stretched areas will be apparent then. If that doesn't work I really may give up. I'll try this stuff you're suggesting pugsy. Thanks.



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OK, good. We've ascertained that you still have an oil can.

Now, warm it with the disc and let it pop down, fine.
As it's popped down run the disc all around the edge of the crater and sprintz. Keep doing it and I'm 100% certain it will start to tighten up.

You have nothing to lose.

And unlike IDJ, my love is conditional honey, don't give up yet.

An oil can will come up again and again in this hobby and you need to control it before it controls you as it's doing now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Lol. Thanks for the encouragement. I hope to give this a whirl tonight. I'll keep you guys posted.


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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
This gave me a little hope and motivation:

https://youtu.be/t2ddTNrR8Ag

What do you think of this guys technique. I also see has a 4.5" shrinking disc. I wanted to get this one but read multiple threads that said to get the 9". I regret this decision and wish I would have gotten the 4.5". I have small isolated spots and the 9" hits too much other stuff I think. Or in the case of my oil can dent in fighting now; when it pops in it has a 4-5" diameter. It's hard to get in that with the large disc.


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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This gave me a little hope and motivation:

https://youtu.be/t2ddTNrR8Ag

What do you think of this guys technique. I also see has a 4.5" shrinking disc. I wanted to get this one but read multiple threads that said to get the 9". I regret this decision and wish I would have gotten the 4.5". I have small isolated spots and the 9" hits too much other stuff I think. Or in the case of my oil can dent in fighting now; when it pops in it has a 4-5" diameter. It's hard to get in that with the large disc.


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Do not regret your decision. You got the right one.
Do as I say, let the bubble in and just go around the edge of the crater.

You're letting fear of it not working get to you.


If you want to hit the bubble, get a buddy/wife/wife's girlfriend/etc, to push up on the bubble with a hammer handle as you warm it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·




Here is what I have now. Look closely at the picture with the numbers. 1 is what I believe to be the normal roof profile. 2 is a low spot created from shrinking today. 3 is a high spot. 4 is back at roof line or low. I don't even remember. Do you think I just need to shrink 3 to make 2 come up and get level with 1 and 4?

The whole area still oil cans in. Do I need to shrink from the other side or does that really matter??

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Just keep shrinking different spots until the oil can stops.

Is it getting less?

Do not bash or stretch anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Sometimes it seems like it's getting less and then other times it seems like I haven't made much progress. Explain to me why when I keep shrinking it sucks in. That the whole thing about this that's scaring me. As I progress it wants to stay in more. Do you think there will be a point where I shrink it all enough and that low spot will come up?


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Sometimes it seems like it's getting less and then other times it seems like I haven't made much progress. Explain to me why when I keep shrinking it sucks in. That the whole thing about this that's scaring me. As I progress it wants to stay in more. Do you think there will be a point where I shrink it all enough and that low spot will come up?


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You're not trying to bring any spots anywhere right now.

You're only concern is to make the pop bubble, as I like to call them, go away.

If it's low after that, that's a wonderful thing.
We can deal with that afterwards.

You can get nowhere until the "pop" is gone.

A customer sent me some pics yesterday of a steel cabinet that the boys in the shop laminated with Formica.
Why am I mentioning this? It's because, the customer had the unit stored in a cool place and then delivered it to a store with no heat on. The steel behind the plastic laminate has shrunk more than the laminate.

Take a look at the pic.
Consider if the steel behind the laminate was not there. If you pushed the bubble, would it not indeed "pop" inwards just like your roof skin?
Since the metal behind shrunk, there is too much "stretched" laminate gathered in one place.

 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Very interesting. Alright, I'll keep shrinking Away! I do want to be clear though, when I say it sucks in, I mean it sucks in and stays in; like an "upside down" or "innie" oil can/ pop bubble. I have to push up from the bottom to make it pop in and out. Just is very strange to me.


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Very interesting. Alright, I'll keep shrinking Away! I do want to be clear though, when I say it sucks in, I mean it sucks in and stays in; like an "upside down" or "innie" oil can/ pop bubble. I have to push up from the bottom to make it pop in and out. Just is very strange to me.


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If it pops, it's still a bubble.

You should know by now if it is or isn't an oil can. Don't try to convince yourself it's not a bubble. It is or it isn't.

Watch at 7:10 how to stretch metal to bring it up. He's using the slapper on dolly to stretch.

This is for later, not now. First the pop has to be gone.
When you have that, then it's off dolly to raise lows.
If you have lows at the end which can not be "pushed" into position by off dolly slapping, then you stretch carefully on dolly.

 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Awesome. Thanks so much.


Can I use dykem blue layout dye safely on panels as a guide coat? Will it leave anything bad for my paint?

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Awesome. Thanks so much.


Can I use dykem blue layout dye safely on panels as a guide coat? Will it leave anything bad for my paint?

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Just clean it with lacquer thinners or what ever else thins it out.

Just don't use a body file to check your work.
I use a long sanding block, skim across to find the highs.

Then the trouble begins. I takes a looooooong time to get it all nice again.
Unless you're a natural...I sure as heck am not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Not supposed to use thinners before SPI products are ya? Do I need to get the 3m guide coat?


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Not supposed to use thinners before SPI products are ya? Do I need to get the 3m guide coat?


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You'll remove the blue, then sand with 80 grit, then w&g remover. You'll be fine.

If you feel better with guide coat, go ahead.
I fear the name 3M.....$$$$$$

I do know one thing though. I sure wouldn't paint over that stuff. I would remove it with thinners first...ha....back to the beginning....
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Alright. I love dykem. Never used it in auto body application though, and yes, when you mention 3M you're talking 3x the real price. Gonna order some now. I just don't like using spray paint. Sands off hard and gums up my sand paper. I want something dry fast. Is the 3m stuff hazardous to paint? Is it the answer for me later on in my project?


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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Is the 3m stuff hazardous to paint? Is it the answer for me later on in my project?


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I have no idea.

I'm fussy and don't want anything under my primer which is a different material than the primer itself.
 
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