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Discussion Starter #1
After the process of installing a GM R&P, making tie rod end adapters, along with
all the mumbo jumbo I discovered that my steering arms are a tad too long
to get the spindles to hit the stops on full turn. I have cut and welded these
when I raced .However, with a full roll cage and all the other gear it wasn't an issue.

The method we used was to step cut the steering rod, V it out, heat it and weld,
then let it cool.
Now since 39 Plymouth parts are hard to come by, input on the procedure
we used for Circle track and Off Road racing worked, can I have some Input
as to other methods and ideas.

Thanks
Dave :confused:
 

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Early Mopar

Hi Dave,
On another thread we went through some of this with early Mopar beam axles..The later D100 pickup spindles fit the early cars..Requires the kingpin holes in the axle be reamed out..these may have the steering arms needed..

Some guys have made custom arms from cold rolled steel..use the Heim joints on this deal..Or buy a taper reamer to maek the tie rod ends fit...Look at some of the arms in the speedway catalog to see those types of arms..

On the Circle track cars ..yes we do get away with a lot on these cars..On street cars if you should do heating and bending on the steering arms the spindles need to go out for non-destructive testing...(Maganflux) to see that no cracks have been induced in the modification process..I mean it would be rather rude to break a steering arm at about 60 on the way to a Sunday rod meet..might even cause ya to clean out your shorts..:nono:

There you are some thoughts on the subject of modified steering arms..:thumbup:
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Onemoretime,

Thanks for the tip @ speedway motors, I'll look into
it and see what I can come up with.

My other option I was pondering, was to use some 1" square stock drill & tap with1/2" NF and #8 bolts to make an off set for the difference I need for the stops on the spindles to work. It's only 1". There is plenty of room to do this as the steering arm mounts under the spindle.

What do ya think ?


thanks for your time

:)
 

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Extending the stops?

well if you have sufficient travel in the steering lock to lock then extending the stops might be the way to go..could even use some silastos or make a bumper as you say to do the deal..As I am understanding this deal is the steering is fine ..you just need to have a bumper or spindle stops in the right place..???

This I think would be the way to go..

Good luck

:thumbup:
 
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Discussion Starter #5
OneMoreTime,

There are stops "adjustable" on the spindles,
it's just that their 3/16" from touching. It doesn't
appear to be a lot but the turning radius is going
to be less than the stock steering had .
And how much that I wouldn't know.

I'm really thinking to let it go until I get it fired up
and drive it to see if it corners like a 16" box truck
or like a ratrod.

I have too many hours and parts that I fabricated to
change to another style of spindle at this time between
disc brakes, king pins and everything else. If there were a 1" shorter steering arm available that would make my day, but that's just wishful thinking.

Thanks for your time & input,

Dave
 

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H,mmmmm

Dave,

I am not the brightest punkin in the patch around here but it seems that those stops are there to prevent damage to the steering box..

IMCA guys are now using a reinforcement plate bolted to the tie rod end and to the ball joint..just a simple strap with 2 holes in it to help reinforce those steering arms..Now I am just wondering if it is possible to redrill the arms with a hole 1" closer and install a reinforcement strap such as is used by IMCA..could it be that perhaps maybe one could be made as well that uses the backing plate holes as an attachment..

Since I am not there to see what you have this is just what I can think of..just gotta be persistent to solve one of these deals..



:smash: Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together..:D
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
;) OneMoreTime,

If there was enough of meat near the steering rod end
that would foot the bill. However, that's not the case here.

I did some figuring and measuring and the overall loss
of wheel turn is one inch at the front/center of the tire
with the R&P than from the stock steering box.
I don't think it's going to be too much trouble.....

I going to put this issue on the back burner for a while,
I other things to do that can drive me crazy.

You said "you might not the brightest pumpkin in the
patch around here" but you did have some good imput.



Thanks again,
Dave


:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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