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Discussion Starter #1
i took the intake off of my 305 today to change it w/an edelbrock rpm.. i have oil that is HARD like it got really hot.. around the pushrod and lifter at the front of the block on the passanger side.. looks like it is keeping the pushrod and lifter from even moving... also there is dried oil on the outside of the head looks like it ran down to the block.. there is no engine coolant in the car (i bought it a few months ago) so im thinking maybe it ran hot.. and warped the head allowing oil to run down into the valley and outside of the head? any suggestions? im not putting a new intake on with this crap in there lol.. its so hard looks almost like carbon buildup..
 

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High Mileage cars without the proper oil changes and maintenance will get build up like that.It sounds as if the engine was not maintained correctley. If it is built up that bad,you will want to pull the oil pan and check for clumps in it.I would want to pull the motor and go thru it.Then afterwards keep a good scheduled maintenance on it.Good Luck.-RC-
 

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When I swapped mine to an Edelbrock the lifter valley was just like yours and the underside of the old manifold.
I filled all the drainback holes with paper and got to scraping it all out. I used the vacuum to get the scraped crud out, which croaked soon after. I don´t think my car had regular TLC before I got it so after that I made sure I did regular oil changes.
When I built my 350 I installed a valley baffle, from Summit
part MIL-32610, that was in May 2003. As I got a roller cam shortblock I installed the baffle into the valley with studs. I had the intake off a couple of months ago and everything was like new, even the underside of the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the motor only has 80,000 miles.. is that considered high mileage? also would that cause the crud to only be built up on that one side of the lifter valley.. around ONE pushrod and lifter? its caked up all the way to the head. like a long oozing trail from the head down to the bottom of the lifter valley... about 3 inches long.
 

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80,000 is high mileage if it was not taken care of by the previous owner.Sounds like the oil thickened or even cooked from being in there a little longer than it should have.You said it is in the front right?Are the drain holes in the head clear?If they are clear it could very well be coming from between the head and the block deck.I would still want to pull that pan off to clean it out. Sounds like it needs to come apart for a closer inspection though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah its in the front.. the head drain hole is clear far as i can tell.. i was going to put it all together to see if it would run (im also swapping it from tpi to carb then taking it out and putting it in a 280z) i dont want to take the motor out... rebuild it.. then put it in my z only for it to be screwed over.. if the head drain holes were plugged would it have built up enough pressure to squirt it between the block and head?
 

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No it should not have built the pressure up to squirt it out.The oil is not under pressure after it exits the pushrods.It just flows back into the valley.There are more than that one drain hole in the head. Just curios,why loose the TPI? That is a good setup for injection that is on these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ecu is shot.. and i've read posts saying i can get more power w/the carb (without buring ecm's) after i beef the motor up... i might as well go ahead and do that since i'll basically be tearing it down already.
 

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Cool.I was just wondering.TPI would be way cool in that ride.There are several things you can do with injection to make power.But with a shot ECM I see where you are coming from.
 

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I know you can pick up an ecm for 100 to150 dollars for my year tpi (85 vette) . I wouldn't dream of getting rid of my tpi for any carb set up. It would be like taking a step backwards.
 

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why ditch the tpi? s&p can program a ecm to meet your needs. check them out @hotrodlane.cc ... tpi kicks butt and a new carb would cost more than a new computer not to mention the intake and gaskets involved in swapping back.
 

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my philosophy

If it ain't broke don't fix it. If you start loosening up that crud you are going to send it through the motor and tear everything apart. Put your new intake on and change the oil at regular intervals. It may slowly clean itself up. If not, it's not hurting anything. The damage is already done. Tearing a motor apart that is not burning oil costs dollars and doesn't make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thats the thing.. i dont know WHAT the motor is doing.. all it would do w/the computer is just turn over... waiting on my carb and FPR to come in then im going to try to start it again...
 

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Back to the hard (coked)oil deposit. Be sure to check the block surface under this deposit. Clean it good and look for a visable crack about 1-1 1/2" above the lifter area.. I have seen many small blocks with stress cracks in that area. They leak just enuff to create the problem you are describing.. The coolant mixes with the oil and cooks to the spot.
 
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