Hot Rod Forum banner

Torque link intake manifolds?

8693 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  barnym17
Torklink link intake manifolds?

Hey everyone,

I'm considering getting a Torklink intake manifold for my Truck, something cool and from what I hear they should preform well. Just wanting to know if anyone has had first hand experience with these manifolds. I'm running a Predator Carb, as you may know the Predators like a big plenum volume to help mix the fuel and I was thinking this may be a perfect match. Predator actually recommends tunnel rams.

I have a Chevy 383
xe-274H cam
9.3 compression
1 5/8 headers
Vortec heads

1 - 11 of 11 Posts
I don't believe they sell it with a Vortec pattern, and the Tork Link is usually used just for Circle track... It could probably work but a simple RPM would probably be better and cheaper.
HERE is a link to a thread here at the HR forum.

That intake is tall- but you have a truck, so it shouldn't be an issue, should you decide to use it.

What you're getting is basically a long runner, single plane intake that will be biased more towards the top end of the power band. The "bottom end" for a circle track race car is not the same as saying "bottom end" for a street car.

IMO, your money is better spent on an Eddy RPM or the Professional Products knock-off.
I will agree with cobalt327 on one thing I think you spending money on a edelbrock rpm would probably be better. But as far as Professional Products. I wouldn't waste my time with them. They are made with cheap foreign labor in China. Also I found an article about Professional products and I will post it. It talks about why it is cheaper than the name brands if you don't now how to clean it up and make it right thats going to cost you the money you saved. So IMO I would stick with the name brands

So when an opportunity is presented to get a good deal on an otherwise big-ticket performance part, you can't help but take advantage. One such company is making a business out of this very concept. Professional Products has taken perhaps the un-admirable role of making "knock offs" of popular "E" brand intake manifolds. By taking advantage of lower
It's no secret where the manifolds are produced.
materials and labor costs overseas, Pro Products can bring to market versions of Edelbrock's popular "Performer", "RPM", and "Victor Jr." intakes for less than two-thirds the cost (The satin "Typhoon" EFI intake runs around $300, compared to $500 for the Edelbrock RPM. Shown is the polished version, which is around $400.)

Now we're well aware of the sociopolitical flood gates we're opening regarding supporting companies that use cheap foreign labor. We're not concerning ourselves with that debate, it's your decision. In this article we are strictly focusing on reviewing the product and whether or not it's worth the dollars. Or yuan. Or whatever.

Pro Products sent us their Typhoon Power-Plus 5.0L EFI manifold for evaluation. The kit consists of a lower and upper manifold, available in polished or satin. There is no hiding the fact that this is a virtual replica of Edelbrock's proven Performer RPM design. We felt at a price tag of under $400 (compared to nearly $600 for the real thing) this may be a popular option for budget-minded enthusiasts who are not sure if an intake
The Cobra intake plenum was cut off to allow porting the runners, then welded back together.
upgrade will net any more power on their existing combo. This is precisely the position we were in with our Project Green Machine II, Tech Editor Jim Langley's 1992 5.0L Mustang. The car has been down to consistent 12.2x ET's at 113 mph with a heavily-ported Cobra intake manifold. Jim wasn't convinced that spending half-a-grand on an Edelbrock intake would yield significant gains over the hogged out Cobra. Yet he acknowledged that without trying he'd always wonder if the ported Trick Flow heads and stealth custom cam were being held back. So one afternoon off came the Cobra and on went the Typhoon.

Inspection of the Typhoon reveals the cost savings. The intake is nowhere near as cleaned up as its Edelbrock counterpart. The port openings are irregular and inconsistent in size, and there is considerable casting flash in the runners. Visually it appears the mating surfaces are square, but we wouldn't be surprised if they run wider tolerances than domestic product. Nevertheless the problems are not insurmountable. Most guys may be willing to sacrifice a couple hours of cleanup time with a die grinder for $200 in the bank. We spent a little time gasket matching the port openings (see below), and cleaning up excessive flash.

On the plus side the polished intake looks decent and claims to be hand polished. All the appropriate ports comes tapped and cleaned, and the box includes the correct fittings and hardware. We had no issues installing it, and it sealed up as would any new intake. We've detailed the installation on the next few pages.

Gasket Matching
Typically intake manifolds are manufactured with port dimensions slightly to grossly smaller than the port on the cylinder head. This ensures that a smaller cross section is feeding into a larger one, a fairly safe transition and easy way to increase velocity through the intake tract. Of course this
Porting entails reshaping the entire runner, as was done on our Cobra intake.
comes at a cost of less volume than may be optimal for the motor. Intake porting is a procedure to address this. Like cylinder head porting, it is an end-to-end methodical hogging out of the runner and ports. The end goal with an intake port job is to complement the cylinder heads, in flow and volume but also in transition fron the intake to the head. Gasket matching on the otherhand is simply the latter- opening up the port entries or exits to the size of the gasket or head. The objective being to ensure there is a good even transition between the intake and head, without steps or ledges obstructing flow. With gasket matching we are not concerning ourselves with changing the volume or flow path inside the runners.

The Typhoon intake clearly needs to be gasket matched. It is obvious that the foundry does a minimal clean up of the ports and runners before shipping. This way labor costs are kept down, as are costs for sophisticated CNC machinery. This is how the intake can be priced so low. Yet this is not necessarily bad. If you are serious about power, you should be checking the port transitions on any intake, Edelbrock or otherwise. In our experience we've found that you end up gasket matching most of the time, as your head port work or milling work varies from stock. The procedure is not that tough as detailed here by Jim Langley.

Gasket matching an intake manifold begins with finding the relative position of the manifold and gasket to the head when installed. Temporarily bolt down the manifold with gaskets. Note where the top of the gasket sits in position to the intake and head (arrow.) Scribe a mark on the gasket to mark the position of the intake manifold edge.
With the manifold and gaskets removed from the head, position the gasket against the intake manifold using the marked scribed in step one. Then using a permanent marker, machinists dye, or a scratch awl trace the gasket port boundaries to the manifold. Note, we're using a Mr.Gasket #5833 intake gasket. This is equivalent to a Fel Pro #1250 (1.20" x 2.00")

Once all the gasket ports are traced onto the manifold we can clearly see how much material is required to be removed. Keep in mind you should only open the intake ports completely to the gasket size if the ports on the cylinder head are also opened to the same amount, or larger.
Using a die grinder makes quick work of removing the soft aluminum. It is good technique to slightly radius the edge as shown here, rather than leave a hard corner.

Periodically check your progress against the gasket. Once all the ports are completed be sure to properly clean the shavings out of the manifold.
Don't stop gasket matching at just the lower manifold-to-head junction. The transition between upper and lower manifolds is also a place to check for alignment as it the throttle body orifice. As shown, the Typhoons throttle body opening was severely out of round and well less than the 70mm diameter we needed.

The same technique can be applied to matching up the throttle body opening in the upper intake manifold. Use the correct sized throttle body gasket as the template and grind evenly, out to the scribed marks.
Trust us, spending a little bit of time gasket matching before installing intakes and heads will pay off. It is attention to detail that makes seemingly mundane engine combinations make that extra 10-15 horsepower, or run a tenth or two faster than everybody else.

As embarrassed as we are to announce it, we figure it's our duty to let you know we are not immune to the occasional bout of automotive brain lapses. While attempting to fire up the motor with the new intake we heard an awkward noise followed by engine the engine cranking over way to easily, but not igniting. It became evident after a few more turns of the key that something wasn't right internally. Suspecting something timing related the dreaded tear down began. Soon enough it became clear that a nut had somehow found its way down the open distributor hole during the intake installation process, lodged itself between the chain and sprocket, and when the starter was bumped it resulted in a snapped timing chain. As if that wasn't bad enough, the salt in the wounds came upon reviewing the compression test results -we had bent some valves in the process. So off came the heads for repair.

Several weeks later the motor was reconstructed and we were able to obtain some track results. As mentioned earlier, our '92 5.0L Mustang had been running consistent 12.2 ET's at 113 mph with the ported Cobra intake. With the new Typhoon intake bolted up the car ran several 12.1X ET's in similar weather. While the gains are not overwhelming, they are positive, and inching the Green Machine closer to a 11 second timeslip - a remarkable task if you consider the short-block is stone stock with nearly 140,000 ticks on the odometer.
See less See more
I've had good results with ProfessionalProducts's intakes. Slight casting flash removal, about 30min. clean up + Port matching time as with any intake. I've used the Polished Typhoon @$135 New - RPM knockoff and Polished Crosswind @$165 New - AirGap knockoff.
There are some ProComps that the intake ports are so screwed up you would laugh till your sides split. :pain: Picture a few ports at about a 15*-20* angle. :drunk: I bought one on Evilbay just for the new Edelbrock QJet carb sitting on it. Intake went to scrap metal pile.
I actually have the knockoff Crosswind intake on the engine now and mine is not nearly as bad as everyone likes to say. Still I am interested in the Torklink, it looks to me like a twisted tunnel ram. My understanding is Predators don't suffer from the same weak vacuum signal losses as a normal 4bbl thats why they work so well with a tunnel ram. I am thinking it would be a good combination.

I know this is kinda out there but anyone ever use a Torklink with a Predator?
xxllmm4 said:
I know this is kinda out there but anyone ever use a Torklink with a Predator?
I admire your non-"belly button" set-up thinking that you display. :thumbup:

I've never actually used either- so keep that in mind. That said, at some point I was very interested in both, though not as a combination together- so I did do a fair amount of research on them.

There are a few downsides to the Pred carb. They have quirks that you will hear about as soon as you research them, and I'd recommend a LOT of research. I'd try the Mud bog truck/"Monster Truck" type forums- they were the first en masse users of that carb, AFAIK.

As long as you're not expecting miracles, you might be fine. But the Pred does nothing better (and IMO, some things not as good) than a properly sized and set up Holley, etc.

EDIT- The article inquiring_mind2 quoted from above can be read in its entirety (including photos) HERE, for anyone interested.
There was a previous thread about the Predater carb, I think it had a link about trouble shooting. I remember one part talking about smearing RTV on a rubber flap to keep it from curling up and causing bad or no idle, not to use too much or it will go thru the intake. That's all it took for me to say noooooo.
I actually have the knockoff Crosswind intake on the engine now and mine is not nearly as bad as everyone likes to say. Still I am interested in the Torklink, it looks to me like a twisted tunnel ram. My understanding is Predators don't suffer from the same weak vacuum signal losses as a normal 4bbl thats why they work so well with a tunnel ram. I am thinking it would be a good combination.

I know this is kinda out there but anyone ever use a Torklink with a Predator?
Never used one with a predator but they do work well in the midrange 3500 to 6500 this is what they were designed to do to pull a heavy car off the corner.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.