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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is in my 90 Chevy 454 dually. I was towing a dump trailer with about 6 tons in it and was in 2nd gear on my gravel road about 10-15 mph. I was approaching a slight grade about 20-30 degree an approx 40 ft long and dropped it into lowand started to speed up to about half to 3/4 throttle maybe 20-25 mph. Half way up the incline the engine revved up and quit pulling just like I had shoved it in neutral. I stop and back down to level ground and it had no gears forward or reverse. Took tractor and towed it home. Unhooked trailer and let it sit for a few days waiting on rollback take it to my shop. Well I decided to check fluid this morning and fired it up and checked it. It was at the bottom of the add fluid. so I put in about 4 oz and decided to check gears. I took reverse like normal and forward like normal,I pulled it forward about 15ft and back about 15ft. I put it in park and went out and pulled the stick to check it again when engine speed up like fast idle when cold. Fluid was in xxx's on stick. Put it in gear and nothing in any gear. Any ideas Thanks Gerald
 

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Uphill and quitting sounds like low on fluid.


Check the breather tube for mud or a nest of some sort.

A plugged breather will give a higher than normal fluid reading.
Just for the hell of it dump in 2 quarts of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I got it in the shop and found the little rubber that connects the steel line to the modulator was not tight fitting. Think it may be leaking a little fluid through the modulator and caused rubber to swell. While I was under there I put compressed air through the vent, well don't do that cause there was about a quart of fluid pushed up through the dipstick and it' hard to measure how much when it's puddled on the floor. But I added two quarts and fired it up with rear end just off floor it's about a quart over full but I got all gears now and will drive it later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I let it run about 15 minutes to burn off fluid on the manifold and kept running it through the gears for 15-20 minutes with dipstick out, worked good while jacked up. Let it down and put dip stick back in and pulled it out of shop on level and kept gong reverse and forward for about 35-40 ft and after a few minutes it got slow on engaging the forward gear and no positive engagement. Pulled it back in shop and will pull pan and see if I can see something. I totally rebuilt this trans when I bought the truck and replaced the engine about 10 years ago. It may have about 30 K on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tried it awhile ago cold, gears took hard and it pulled forward and back ok , but it wouldn't spin wheels even in gravel. Like it ain't got not stall , I think converter is putting shhhh stuff back into it clogging filter. Looks like it's coming out. Course I always pull pans first and drain them before removing.
 

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Understand the need to drain it but do your self a favor and install a drain plug this time around. For the life of me cant figure why gm cant just put a plug on the pan in there trans. I drain the fluid but dont pull the pans just loosen all the bolt sep for one edge then remove all of them letting drain so im not getting the trans fluid shower. then lose the tight bolts a little at a time so the pan will drain slowly and not make a mess in the shop. But they make a drain plug kit for the steel pans. You can also buy a cast AL pan with the plug already in it pretty cheap.

I am assuming you put the pan back on before pulling it just to keep the trash out of it.

If the converter is jammed full of crap they recommend you replace them since its hard to get them clean without cutting them apart. All the OEM will only warranty with new converter.

A good trans kit with steels and regular clutch disc will last a long time. I have herd of problems with the thicker plates on many gm trans where with proper setup and machine work to make room for the thicker clutches where the thin ones will let you run extra disc and steel to make the clutch pak actually stronger. So the kits with normal parts and more complete is the best way to get a good kit that comes with all the extra bits. These trans are also very cheap used and broken so you may be better off to buy a parts trans rather than a hard part that needs replacing.

Im no trans expert but these are so simple its best to keep it simple and do the job without trying to make it something great since the factory trans is pretty robust. Just getting one back to the factory level so the rebuild will last can be a challenge when parts are swapped around for performance.
They want to be sure you dropped the pan and changed the filter,and at least cleaned the pan .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I pulled the pan and it's got more silver in it than I got in my hair ! Reminds me of those racing converters when they start to go. I'd say the stator is gone and filter is clogged.
 

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Well I pulled the pan and it's got more silver in it than I got in my hair ! Reminds me of those racing converters when they start to go. I'd say the stator is gone and filter is clogged.
I clamp filters by an edge in a vice... rip them open for inspection. Sometimes very informative if there is lots of debris inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I clamp filters by an edge in a vice... rip them open for inspection. Sometimes very informative if there is lots of debris inside
It's the converter the fluid looks like metal flake paint, seen many from my drag racing days, no hard parts are damaged clutches and steels are fine. A thorough cleaning is in order. Thanks Gerald
 
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