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Discussion Starter #1
I submitted a thread several days ago regarding my electrical fire in my 1965 Rambler; but I have a question regarding the repair that deserves its own thread that others wouldn't read because of the prior thread. When the key is in the "on" position the right turn signal works, but the left lights (front and rear) just stay on continuously. When the key is in the "acc". position the turn signals work correctly. I don't mind the "acc." problem, but concerning the "on" position; the ignition switch connection has 4 wires connected to it. If I disconnected the wires one at a time, am I correct that sooner or later one of the wires I remove will be the one that is causing the drivers side to stay on? Also, if I do this with "acc." side, will I find the one that is causing the signals to work on the acc. position, or are they supposed to work that way? I am disabled which also includes a very bad back so it is very hard for me to crawl under the dash, so I would't like to try this unless a few of you agree or have a better idea. Thanks so much Stan
 

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life is a ride
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Disconnecting the wiring at ignition switch won't solve the problem.
My guess is that something was wired incorrectly from the fire repair.
I'm assuming that the turn signals worked OK before the fire.

First of all, make sure all of the grounds are good.
Bonding straps from engine to chassis and engine to body etc.
Check the grounds at the lamp sockets.

After this is done, if you still have the problem, for responses, post this.
What happens in the (3) positions of the TS handle.

vicrod
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

Agree with Vicrod, You have something mis-wired.

Power should go to the flasher unit, directly from the fuse buss in the "Run" and "ACC" positions only. Pull the flasher and meter the plug at the fuse buss..with the signals off, It should only have power on 1 leg of the plug that goes on and off with the key.

If you have power on both legs of the plug, you have power back~feeding though the turnsignal switch, most likely from the brake lamp switch. (which also run through the turn signal switch).

Do the Brake-lamps work properly when activated in all modes of operation?

From what you describe, I'd bet the turnsignal switch is shorted, and needs repair or replacement.

Doc :pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestions;Vicrod and Docvette. I only had time to check Vicrod's suggestions so far and this is how it went- I previously had installed grounds running from- (battery to starter)-(battery to engine block)-(engine block to chassis)-(alternator to chassis)(trans. tailshaft to chassis)- plus all of the factory installed grounds. I know this is excessive, but I've had ground problems before. As per Vicrod's suggestions, I wirebrushed the light sockets inside and out and soldered a 12 gauge wire to the sockets and put an eyelet on the other end and fastened that to the body behind the lights. As far as the turn lights, the left side is on (front and back) at all times and never changes;the right side works properly all of the time .The brakelights work like they should regardless of the turnsignal position or if the brake light or nightlights are on. Also; as I stated in my other thread, with the key in the acc. position, the turnsignals and everything else works o.k. I will try the other suggestions tomorrow morning. Thanks guys; Stan Jr.
 

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Do you have a wiring diagram or service manual for the Rambler? If not go to www.mattsoldcars.com. There's a 66 diagram there that should be identical to the 65. You might find a diagram on www.tocmp.com as well. That site has a LOT of old wiring diagrams and manual (tocmp = the old car manual project).

You could have a faulty/shorted turn signal switch. The 65 may have a GM switch -- 65 was a transitional year for AMC, they used a couple outside suppliers (can't remember the names!) prior to switching to GM columns in 65 or 66. I think GM bought one of the suppliers out (or bought part of the company), and that's why AMC switched to GM, but I'm not certain. If AMC could buy it cheaper than they could build it, that's what they did. They still built more of their own cars than current domestic manufacturers do -- to much built in Canada and Mexico now!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
strange working turn signals

Well, this car is getting even stranger. I think I have a ground or short problem , but where to start? I began by eliminating wires from the run post on the key switch until the left turn lights went out. I taped off this wire and it seemed to work o.k.-- but-- remember my gas gauge would bury itself past the full mark whenever the key was on. I filled up the gas tank until it was overflowing and took it home to check things out. GET THIS ! With the key on and the turn signal in the right turn position the gas gauge shows empty. With the turn signal in the neutral position the gas gauge shows empty. With the turn signal in the left position, the gas gauge shows full (like it should).BUTTTTTTTTT;;;;;WHILE THE TURN SIGNAL IS FLASHING, THE CHECK ENGINE OIL LIGHT IS ALSO FLASHING AT THE SAME RATE AS THE TURN SIGNAL. Does this sound like a short somewhere? But where to begin? I could could use any and all help. PLEASE! Thanks, Stan
 

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Doc Here, :pimp:

Sounds like you have several problems, and mis~wires..

You say you had a non pro, graft the wires together for you, and it may be that he has made so many errors and mis~wires that you might want to consider a fresh start with a new KIT, or at best a junk yard harness replacement..


I think that's what I'd do..you obviously have circuits cross-feeding each other and activating when they should not be.

Doc :pimp:
 

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I love strange turn signals! :confused: It might be simplest to just rewire the entire turn signal system. It's probably not what you want to hear, but often it's a lot less work than trouble shooting a messed up wiring job.
 

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Doc here, :pimp:

I think the rewire or kit is the best way to go, HOWEVER, If you want to try to correct what you have, The turnsignal system should be wired as follows, (will work if you decide to make a new harness too.)

TURNSIGNALS:
  • BROWN = Flasher to fuse
  • BLUE = Flasher to Directional switch
  • BLACK = Brake-lamp switch.
  • BROWN (2) = Left Front Directional Lamp AND Panel indicator.
  • YELLOW = Right Front Directional Lamp AND Panel indicator.
  • ORANGE = Left Rear Directional Lamp.
  • WHITE = Right Rear Directional Lamp.


These wires SHOULD go nowhere else, except as indicated..and you should be able to continuity check them for destination/termination with an ohm meter, Or you could check them for power on the Volts scale.

After re~reading your posts, From what you describe, I'd take a look at the BROWN (flasher to fuse) Wire and the BROWN (2) (Left rear Directional Lamp and panel indicator) For swapped connections..

That Might give all the indications you describe with the Gauge cluster going nutz when you activate the left signal...

Hope It helps..

Doc :pimp:
 
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