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I can't imagine why that 'combination' valve keeps coming up. I'm assuming (scary word) that you are going to be using someones aftermarket brake assembly, most of which use a '70's Corvette master cylinder. That arrangement you described will work - 2psi residual valve in the front, 10 psi in the rear along with the proportioning valve with the brake switch teed off the line.

A couple of comments - a mechanical brake light switch somewhere on the brake pedal linkage will save at least three leak possible places (I'm using the hydraulic switch too). There are two configurations of those switches to make life interesting - lights on against the spring action or with. Then, make sure you plumb the MC correctly - the big reservoir is for the front brakes and you may have to actually cross lines as that MC is now being mounted backwards from the usual OEM configuration. Some aftermarket versions have that fixed though with two sets of outlets. Also, make sure that the MC doesn't have a check valve built in - some OEM versions do.

A note - that configuration you described is pretty close to what I have on my '31 Ford though I do have 4 wheel discs - and it has worked well for several years
 
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