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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 4l80e transmission I'm thinking about have rebuilt and use in my restoration project. I know I will have to have a controller to shift gears. If my cam calls for a 2000 stall but my crusing rpm will be say 1500rpm. The converter will have lock up. Am I going to have problems with this? I was told my crusing rpm should be what my stall is. Can anyone help?
 

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If you plan to cruise at 1500 rpm's then a stock converter is the way to go. I bought one from Advance Auto with a discount code for $140 - works as it's supposed. Stalled to about 2200 and flashed to 2500.

It absolutely sucked in my application - 4.8, big cam, and way too big of a turbo for street driving - can you say turbo lag - about 3 seconds to make boost lol.

I have a friend that uses the Advance Auto 4L60 and 4L80 converters regularly for stock motors. Be sure to get the correct flexplate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you plan to cruise at 1500 rpm's then a stock converter is the way to go. I bought one from Advance Auto with a discount code for $140 - works as it's supposed. Stalled to about 2200 and flashed to 2500.

It absolutely sucked in my application - 4.8, big cam, and way too big of a turbo for street driving - can you say turbo lag - about 3 seconds to make boost lol.

I have a friend that uses the Advance Auto 4L60 and 4L80 converters regularly for stock motors. Be sure to get the correct flexplate.
Was looking at a howards cam, the power range is 1200-5600 rpm and they recommend a 2000+ stall. This was kinda confusing to me. This is the power range I was thinking I needed but the stall rating had me confused.
 

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More for Less Racer
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Yeah, the 1200-5600 rpm range is a outright lie from the marketing department, not from engineering and design.
No cam company on earth can actually design a camshaft with a power range wider than about 3500 rpm.....so if it's listed as good to 5600 rpm, it really doesn't start until 2100 rpm at best.

Cam company marketing departments have been playing this paper game of rpm range widening one-upmanship for many years. just as son as one company drops it 100 rpm, the others have to follow in fear of losing sales to what "appears" to be a better cam design.

At least the engineering department kept it honest with the 2000+ rpm stall speed recommendation.

The 4L80E can be set up "brain dead", as a full manual only valvebody if you want to avoid all that controller nonsense.
You just have to do all the shifting, it will have no automatic shifts.
 

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Microsquirt with a factory converter will save you many headaches.

Learn about it. Then get on the dedicated mega/microsquirt forums and learn more. There is a wealth of info out.

A manual valvebody gets old fast. That and you will be more abusive with your up/down shifts with a manual valvebody lessening transmission longevity.
If you want to run a truck in a derby or offroad then a manual control is not that hard to make work. But in something you frequently drive you will be wishing it shifted on its own or you just had a manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Marketing will get ya.
What’s the cam PN?
What’s the engine details?
Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 1955 - 1998 Chevy 262-400 1200 to 5400 Howards Cams 113215-08 | Howards Cams here is the link to the cam. I will be going with a jones cam, but this looked close to what I think I would need may not be. Engine has not been built yet but I have a vortec roller block that will end up being a 383 with around 10.5 compression. Can be less if need to. And not decided on my heads yet but will either fix vortecs or will go with the jegs aluminum heads that are made by profiler. Wanting a good strong low to mid range power that is a good daily driver. Don't really want a crazy lopey sound.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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It's advisable to get the rest of your parts list together and finalized BEFORE settling on the cam. Generally it's the next to last part you buy because it's the part that brings everything else together. That said, I think that will work for you as planned, although the 1500-5400rpm range is a little suspect as that mostly dependent on the CI and compression ratio.
It'll be big in 262 and smallish in a 400 with much different characteristics for example.
 

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Well here is/are my two cents. I built my 383 with a 9.1 compression ratio 700 r4 with a 2400 stall converter. Car weighs 3600 lb and I did not build it to be a racer but kind of a ****** cruiser. Rear end is Jaguar xjs with 2.88 ratio. Given the prospect of gas prices in the future I intentionally kept the compression ratio low. I burn regular gas. No pinging. Comp cams CL 12-211-2 flat tappet. Love it. Even with lockup in second third and fourth with selector switch on the dash torque comes in at around 1500 RPM. Nice idle slightly lumpy. 14.9 mpg highway, 10.5 mpg city. Complete build documentation on my website.
 

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Get the thing put together with mostly stock parts. Then once you have a baseline to work from you can tune and modify it from there.

Using things that allow for tuning and adjusting (like a microsquirt 4l80e controller) will let you have less parts in the for sale pile and more under the hood.

Lots if projects die because people try to get it perfect out the gate. Life happens then they have a pile of shiny parts sitting somewhere that they loose money on when they sell those performance things to me for 1/2 the price.

A cam for a 383 I want to cruise in? An RV cam is a good choice out the gate.
Leave the 4l80e alone(if it shifts good now) you can control/tune it with the microsquirt. Do some research. It is one of those things you will talk crap about if you never ran one(correctly). But once you get over the slight learning bump has potential to make that 4l80e work just how you need.

Once you have the thing moving if you want to change things you won't be guessing. You will KNOW you can run a bit more cam, bit more rear end ratio, maybe even change the converter.

Just get the wheels rolling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds to me I really need to stick with my original plan and go with a manual transmission. I think the truck has 3.08 rear gears so really just wanting a good torque motor for cruising.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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There a lot of variable that go into the stall rating. Vehicle weight and engine power/rpm are the main two listed on the internet and partialy why stall is quite misunderstood. The other 20 something is the difference in a quality performance.
Nothing wrong with an automatic if that what you want, just go with the quality company and seek thier advice for the product they are putting out. Never used them myself, but others speak highly of Freakshow and I like the web page graphics. Mean clowns are awesome. I can't help more than because the internals of an automatic scare me. That some voodoo stuff going on there and I don't have magic powers to make them work.
 

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Sounds to me I really need to stick with my original plan and go with a manual transmission. I think the truck has 3.08 rear gears so really just wanting a good torque motor for cruising.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

There was an old guy that used to hang around here that used to say regularly that you need to plan your build and then build your plan.

How do you want your car/truck to work? What do you expect from it in terms of performance, including mileage? A programmable lockup in any gear is the best of both worlds, implying a 4L80E can never be a bad program.

There a lot of variable that go into the stall rating. Vehicle weight and engine power/rpm are the main two listed on the internet and partialy why stall is quite misunderstood. The other 20 something is the difference in a quality performance.


Nothing wrong with an automatic if that what you want, just go with the quality company and seek thier advice for the product they are putting out. Never used them myself, but others speak highly of Freakshow and I like the web page graphics. Mean clowns are awesome.
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


Freakshow Clown in the lower left of the rear window.
Photograph Green Organism Font Screenshot


That is a freaky clown

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


Michael at Freakshow knows his poop.

Being able to lock it up in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear can make a big converter very tame. But if you start out with a relatively tame converter, then the 4L80 will be twice the trans of any stick setup. Of course my opinion FWIW ;)

And it works Ok foot brakin' too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am after a good all around engine that is solid and don't want to have to keep tinkering on it. Not wanting to make crazy power just a good daily driver with good passing power as the truck will never pull a trailer or anything. When the truck first started out we had a 350 with double hump heads and a fairly stock cam, 700r4 transmission. Truck ran 65 mph around 1300rpm approximately. Been many years since then. Looking for something similar but with more torque and better heads.
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 1955 - 1998 Chevy 262-400 1200 to 5400 Howards Cams 113215-08 | Howards Cams here is the link to the cam. I will be going with a jones cam, but this looked close to what I think I would need may not be. Engine has not been built yet but I have a vortec roller block that will end up being a 383 with around 10.5 compression. Can be less if need to. And not decided on my heads yet but will either fix vortecs or will go with the jegs aluminum heads that are made by profiler. Wanting a good strong low to mid range power that is a good daily driver. Don't really want a crazy lopey sound.
That sounds like a good plan for what your trying to do.
 

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It's pretty easy, but very expensive, to get everything you want in a converter. My little turbo V6 S-10 had a redline of 5600 RPM with a single disc 9.5" Vigilante converter from P.I. that was stall-rated at 3400. Sounds like a terrible combination, but it drove like a stocker from idle during normal driving, locked up during cruise, and would pull like a freight train on a full throttle run. Best $800 I spent on that ride...

Russ
 

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I am after a good all around engine that is solid and don't want to have to keep tinkering on it. Not wanting to make crazy power just a good daily driver with good passing power as the truck will never pull a trailer or anything. When the truck first started out we had a 350 with double hump heads and a fairly stock cam, 700r4 transmission. Truck ran 65 mph around 1300rpm approximately. Been many years since then. Looking for something similar but with more torque and better heads.
I'd still go with a budget, stock converter for a daily driver with what you've mentioned. For daily use, higher stall and small diameter aren't needed.

How do you intend to run/control the 4L80?
 

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I think stall is being a bit misunderstood. In absolute terms it is the place where with the shaft output locked it is the point where the test power being applied can no longer gain RPMs unless the output staff is allowed to rotate. Needless to say at this point the oil will quickly reach its boiling point, the converter housing will ballon, or some sort of an unpleasant adventure will occur if that point is held beyond a few seconds.

On the street in normal use it is hard to tell its there. If you have a heavy vehicle and a suitably large power output from you engine you may see a little rpm creep on steep hills because this starts to tease the reason for a high stall converter which in drag racing is to allow you to lock the transmission’s output shaft so there is no vehicle movement nor tire slippage against regular service brakes so the engine rpm cam be increased into the zone of high torque for the launch. This of course leeds to the next problem of achieving tire hook on the pavement.

The other helpful place for a street machine with a big cam demanding a high idle speed a little extra converter slip makes sitting out a traffic light a little easier on your left leg an foot as it’s not trying to drag you through the stop as a standard stall converter will want to do.

Bogie
 

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The other helpful place for a street machine with a big cam demanding a high idle speed a little extra converter slip makes sitting out a traffic light a little easier on your left leg an foot as it’s not trying to drag you through the stop as a standard stall converter will want to do.

Bogie
Just pop it into Netural at those long lights.
 

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Is no one picking up on this. 10.5 cr with the cam op picked? Sounds like detonation, 93 octane gas or reduced spark. Could be a problem. 9.0 cr sounds better and less cam duration? hopefully someone will chime in on this who knows more than me.
 
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