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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, Fossil here. As long as I have been working on cars, trucks, and bikes you would think I would be better at electrics than I am..... But that is not the case! I am trying to straighten out the bird's nest of wiring and install a new gauge cluster on my Jeepster Commando and I am using a universal 11 blade ignition/starter switch. I know the Batt. terminal is where the hot/source wire goes, and the single blade in the center gets the wire from the solenoid. The question I always have on this type of switch (with 4 accessory blades and 4 ignition blades) is what goes to the "acc" and what goes to the "ign" blades? I know the feed to the ignition of course goes to the "ign" side, but what else? Also there is one more single connector, between the "acc" and the "ign" groups which has what looks like a "T" beside it and I have no idea what goes there. This should be so simple but it has always been a problem for me and I can't find a diagram for this type of switch. Thanks for any help. Foss
 

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Well, the ACC terminal feeds the fuse panel accessory bus. The IGN terminal feeds the coil (or HEI 12volt terminal) and the fuse panel IGN bus. I'm not sure what the "tee" is for.

Pictures? Part number?
 

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I found the below forum picture.
Font Automotive lighting Gas Terrestrial plant Asphalt


The thread goes into better detail about the connections in #11 post.
 

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One more thing: If you are running an HEI, the ignition switch IGN terminal must have 12 volts on it with the key in the START position. A switch like this is said to be "mutually bussed".

I bring this up because older switches used with a points distributor did not do this. That function was handled by the starter terminal labeled "R" (on GM vehicles) feeding 12 volts directly to the coil during cranking.

You can check this with an ohm meter on the workbench. Touch one test lead to ignition switch power, the other to the IGN terminal. Odds are the switch is mutually bussed, but I have seen brand new OE replacement switches for 50s cars that were not.

BTW when I say "12 volts" I mean "battery voltage", whatever yours is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, guys. All good info and tells me part of what I need to know. Part of what still confuses me is which side (acc or ign) things go to like lights, flashers, wipers, instrument lights, etc.. Of course I assume the radio would go to acc and the ignition to the ign. Also, this system doesn't have a "fuse block/panel. It just has a few inline fuse holders. I guess now would be a good time to install a fuse panel, since I'm neck-deep into this job. In the pic shown above, of the back side of the switch, the single blade in the middle, on the bottom is the one that appears to be labeled "T" that I mentioned before.? I have no clue what goes there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow! Where has this been all my life? I believe even an idiot like me should be able to wire a car with this info. And I see the extra single blade is a ground. Thanks so much,55-327. In fact, there is a '55 Chevy with a 350 in it that has been sitting in my basement since the '80s. Long story, short: bought my two sons each a '55 in the early '80s, (they were teens then), got this one basically done except interior, side glass, grill and bumpers. Got the other one half done (396/muncie 4 speed, but body all apart still. About that time, they both got married, went back to school, had kids..... you know the story. So... they have been sitting. I have even tried to buy this one (a 150) but he won't sell even though I put all the money and a lot of the work in it. Anyway, '55s will never go out of style or demand. Enjoy yours. Thanks again. Foss
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, thanks to the help here, I have this issue about whipped. I have one issue now that has cropped up while sorting out all this other wiring stuff. Now when I start the vehicle everything works as it should......... until I turn the switch off. It keeps running. Not "dieseling", running like the switch is still on. So, I unplug the ignition wire from the back of the switch and it shuts off. What is really odd though is that the blade on the switch that the ignition feed wire plugs onto is hot when the switch is on, and dead when the switch is off, as it should be. The switch is basically new so I don't think it is the problem. What am I overlooking here? Foss
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Following one diagram I had, earlier on in this process, I ran a wire from the #1 terminal on the alternator to the "ign" blade on the switch. Now, as it turns out, once the vehicle is running this feeds power to the ignition even after the switch is turned off. So I unplugged that from the switch and the switch works as it should. BUT.... where does this wire go now? This vehicle has a 20 amp circuit breaker above the left kick panel that about everything feeds from. Maybe I should tie this wire to the input side of that.?
 

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Following one diagram I had, earlier on in this process, I ran a wire from the #1 terminal on the alternator to the "ign" blade on the switch. Now, as it turns out, once the vehicle is running this feeds power to the ignition even after the switch is turned off. So I unplugged that from the switch and the switch works as it should. BUT.... where does this wire go now? This vehicle has a 20 amp circuit breaker above the left kick panel that about everything feeds from. Maybe I should tie this wire to the input side of that.?
What type of alternator do you have? Internally or externally regulated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What type of alternator do you have? Internally or externally regulated?
Internally. I actually went on the Jeep commando owners forum and did a search and found someone who had the same problem. He unplugged the wire from the #1alternator term,like I did, and it fixed the problem, just like it did for me but he never said anything about hooking it anywhere else. Very confusing. Surely it needs to be attached to something.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It sure does look like exactly what I need! This will be ordered as soon as I finish this email. This issue has had me going crazy! Thanks so much for this info. Have a GREAT day!
 

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It sure does look like exactly what I need! This will be ordered as soon as I finish this email. This issue has had me going crazy! Thanks so much for this info. Have a GREAT day!
Does your ignition wire go through a light and then to the alternator? That diode will surely help out. Ideally the ignition wire goes into one side of the light and the outgoing wire to the exciter on the alternator which don’t quote me is #2. When the key is on (ignition is hot, but not running) there is a difference in electrical potential (IE the alternator is 12v- and the ignition wire is 12v+) and the light will shine. When the engine starts the exciter takes the little bit of current flowing from the glowing bulb and excites the windings to produce electricity. At this point the ignition wire and the exciter wire are at the same electrical potential (both are 12+) and the light goes out. There is no current flowing and when the key is turned off the ignition should stop. Double check that this is your setup. If so, the diode will fix your issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I ordered the diode immediately after replying to the earlier post and I am pretty sure it will work. One video I watched on YouTube showed a 194 bulb in that line. I thought it was just there for an idiot light but another reason the guy said to put it there might be what I found out recently, that a led bulb can be used as a diode, since it will only allow current to flow through it in one direction. I was informed about this by a friend who builds computers. If he needs a diode and doesn't have one he just puts a led bulb in the line. Blew me away! This issue has had me scratching my head and butt at the same time. Thanks again for the help guys. I'll post the results. Gotta love these forums. So many people willing to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bingo! Problem fixed. I ordered the diode from Speedway, and had it next day! I've been busy so it was a few days before I got to install it but it worked like a charm. Once again, guys, thanks so much for the help.
 
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