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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to order a power window kit. Telling me that you used X brand would be great.
However, more importantly, telling me about failures would be of more benefit. Or things like, it rattles, shakes, shimmies, etc.
I have a 41 Chrysler with flat glass.

Brands I've found:

Specialty Power Windows ( I have their universal wiper kit and it seems good)

Ball's

Nu Relics
 

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I'll have to do a little digging through receipts to see the mfr, but the power window kit that dad installed in the 57 has never worked right. It seems like the motors are too weak, especially on the back windows. They've been in the car since the mid to late 90's, so they may have been improved since then. Or they're out of business. I'll do a little digging when I get home. I've been wanting to look into this for myself anyway, you've just given me an extra push.

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

Searching shows cable drive and gear drive. Looks like the gear drive have scissor type regulators and cable drive go staight up and down. The straight up and down look easy, but how many cables or gears have stripped out? I have a pretty large glass.
 

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Grand Prix user
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When we do power conversions on scissor types at the shop, its usually with NuRelics stuff. Seems good.

Personally, I think the trouble / service factor is equal between cable and gear. Even on big coupe glass. I lean toward liking the cable type, perhaps due to having more experience with them. Repairing either type can be a losing battle.

I believe weight is a major consideration in selecting which regulator type.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm gonna go take a look at my Specialty Power Windows windshield wiper cable and gear. It's probably the same cable and gear system.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When we do power conversions on scissor types at the shop, its usually with NuRelics stuff. Seems good.

Personally, I think the trouble / service factor is equal between cable and gear. Even on big coupe glass. I lean toward liking the cable type, perhaps due to having more experience with them. Repairing either type can be a losing battle.

I believe weight is a major consideration in selecting which regulator type.
The cable type looks so durn easy to install to me.
 

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Grand Prix user
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Just don't overlook method of attachment to glass. Cable types usually connect to a channel that the glass is set in whereas scissor type normally has rollers bolted in holes through the glass. Looking into that aspect of it should guide you toward one type or the other pretty early in the thought process.

On a side note, I noticed that on your car the door top shape is an unusual (can I say fairly ugly? :) ) shape, and recall talk of ditching the wing windows... but haven't been able to imagine something cool to do there as a remedy. Have you?
 

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Grand Prix user
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I'm gonna go take a look at my Specialty Power Windows windshield wiper cable and gear. It's probably the same cable and gear system.
Cable regulators are made with pulleys and plain stranded cables, not screw-drive cable like your wipers. The metal gear on a cable regulator's motor fits into a splined plastic socket on the regulator.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just don't overlook method of attachment to glass. Cable types usually connect to a channel that the glass is set in whereas scissor type normally has rollers bolted in holes through the glass. Looking into that aspect of it should guide you toward one type or the other pretty early in the thought process.

On a side note, I noticed that on your car the door top shape is an unusual (can I say fairly ugly? :) ) shape, and recall talk of ditching the wing windows... but haven't been able to imagine something cool to do there as a remedy. Have you?
Wing window delete for sure. I need to investigate if I can get a straight line from front to rear of door. Major metal work to door window frame required.
 
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1949 Ford Coupe RESURRECTION
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For what it's worth I used AutoLock before I realized everybody hates them but after several modifications they work pretty good. It's important if you use anything that just clamps the glass rather than bolts through holes in the glass that you mount the clamp at the center of gravity and not at the center of the window panel. On page two of this gallery link I go into detail about what I did to make things work out. I eventually had to epoxy the clamps because they kept slipping.

 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just don't overlook method of attachment to glass. Cable types usually connect to a channel that the glass is set in whereas scissor type normally has rollers bolted in holes through the glass. Looking into that aspect of it should guide you toward one type or the other pretty early in the thought process.

On a side note, I noticed that on your car the door top shape is an unusual (can I say fairly ugly? :) ) shape, and recall talk of ditching the wing windows... but haven't been able to imagine something cool to do there as a remedy. Have you?
Here's the shape. It may be too much to correct. However, having a two piece window installed into a strong lower channel would keep it's shape I believe, with a nice silicone bead holding it together at the seam. Maybe a trim piece over the joint?

Straight edge in the slot:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Tire



The same piece with a bend in it:

Tire Wheel Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting
 
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
For what it's worth I used AutoLock before I realized everybody hates them but after several modifications they work pretty good. It's important if you use anything that just clamps the glass rather than bolts through holes in the glass that you mount the clamp at the center of gravity and not at the center of the window panel. On page two of this gallery link I go into detail about what I did to make things work out. I eventually had to epoxy the clamps because they kept slipping.

Thanks.

Good info there. I've got it bookmarked for when it's time to operate.
 

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Administrator
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cable types work better IMHO. They go up and down at a consistent speed, which means the load on the motor is consistent.With a sissors type regulator, you have the "Grunt" of the motor at half way and they slow down .

Cable type seem to have consistent lift power /speed

Probably why all the manufacturers are using them, plus they fit in a tight space better
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cable types work better IMHO. They go up and down at a consistent speed, which means the load on the motor is consistent.With a sissors type regulator, you have the "Grunt" of the motor at half way and they slow down .

Cable type seem to have consistent lift power /speed

Probably why all the manufacturers are using them, plus they fit in a tight space better
Thanks.

You mean the car manufacturers or aftermarket dudes?
 

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New Car manufacturers are using cable type. Practically all of them. I dont remember the last scissor style I replaced.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks.

I have a supplier that we use locally for "bent" glass. When I mentioned the windshield, they said the bend may be more of a curve. Same thing for side glass. The glass bends easily with large radii.

I may have to make a mold for them to do a test run to see how crisp of a "bend" they can get.

They place the glass on top of the mold, fire up the furnace and the glass just drapes down on top of the mold when it gets red hot. The tight corner will probably end up as a large radius though. That could work for side glass though as I would just need to do a slight mod on the door border.
 

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Grand Prix user
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5,443 Posts
Here's the shape. It may be too much to correct. However, having a two piece window installed into a strong lower channel would keep it's shape I believe, with a nice silicone bead holding it together at the seam. Maybe a trim piece over the joint?

Straight edge in the slot:

View attachment 619423


The same piece with a bend in it:

View attachment 619424
I'm afraid you lost me at vent window delete and bent glass. Neither of those are something I would want. Thought you were sticking with flat glass for the car.

It occurred to me though, that there may be such thing as a screw drive window regulator. The sunroof regulator on the GTP is that way. I bet LATECH remembers the regulators in Cieras. Boy I'd like to forget those but they use like a strip with square holes in it over a gear. And, on the NuRelics Model A power window conversion, the new reg is a single arm.

The NuRelics offering for yours is scissor type, no? Eh.
 

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For what it's worth I used AutoLock before I realized everybody hates them but after several modifications they work pretty good. It's important if you use anything that just clamps the glass rather than bolts through holes in the glass that you mount the clamp at the center of gravity and not at the center of the window panel. On page two of this gallery link I go into detail about what I did to make things work out. I eventually had to epoxy the clamps because they kept slipping.

I used autoloc for my '41 Ford coupe and they work well. I had to do a little fitting (bending the channels) to get them to follow the door profile, but now they are nice. One thing tho', the wiring to the passenger door is fairly lengthy and is a very small gauge, so I ended up replacing those wires with a larger gauge to reduce the voltage drop which fixed the slower movement on that side.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm afraid you lost me at vent window delete and bent glass. Neither of those are something I would want. Thought you were sticking with flat glass for the car.

It occurred to me though, that there may be such thing as a screw drive window regulator. The sunroof regulator on the GTP is that way. I bet LATECH remembers the regulators in Cieras. Boy I'd like to forget those but they use like a strip with square holes in it over a gear. And, on the NuRelics Model A power window conversion, the new reg is a single arm.

The NuRelics offering for yours is scissor type, no? Eh.
There are no offerings for my car, so universal kits only.

Bent meaning flat glass, bent at the bend in the door where the vent window used to be. I'm thinking not to tear apart the door borders if I don't have to.
 
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