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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I used autoloc for my '41 Ford coupe and they work well. I had to do a little fitting (bending the channels) to get them to follow the door profile, but now they are nice. One thing tho', the wiring to the passenger door is fairly lengthy and is a very small gauge, so I ended up replacing those wires with a larger gauge to reduce the voltage drop which fixed the slower movement on that side.
Thanks.

I'll check what brand our local hot rod shop carries. He probably has the cable drive. It's in his catalog. However, with C-19 who knows?
 

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For what it's worth, I have a set of Nu Relics in my Car and I can't say enough good about them. In my Case, I sent in a rusty pair of original regulators I found and they sent me back works of art. I went with their wiring and switch option, and they use mid-60's style switches and the heavy wiring (no relays) like 60's GM products used.They go up and down smoothly, and I haven't had a lick of problem with them.
Later on I misplaced the wiring instructions, gave them a call and they were very nice in helping me-
I realize you are changing your glass, but I wonder if an original could be modified to work-
 

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Grand Prix user
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Thats wild. I've just never had glass be a "sure, we can make whatever" right down the street option to consider. So I would never think of that. And I never seen no vertical bend in no side window.

Is the bend the same at top and bottom of window opening? Wait... that never never never ^^^ is why I need to keep my nose out of other peoples' projects.

I'd have to be standing there to grasp that situation probably. Didn't mean to bring in a tangent topic really. Just curious if you had pondered further on that spot. Which looked uglier from a different angle. At least you have something in mind. Only thing that occurred to me was replacing the wing window with a roll up kind but don't think theres room in the doors.
 

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Man... So much hate for the vent windows. Ha! I love the vent windows on the 57. I'd love to add them to my 98 pickup somehow. I still need to dig through some receipts for you...

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thats wild. I've just never had glass be a "sure, we can make whatever" right down the street option to consider. So I would never think of that. And I never seen no vertical bend in no side window.

Is the bend the same at top and bottom of window opening? Wait... that never never never ^^^ is why I need to keep my nose out of other peoples' projects.

I'd have to be standing there to grasp that situation probably. Didn't mean to bring in a tangent topic really. Just curious if you had pondered further on that spot. Which looked uglier from a different angle. At least you have something in mind. Only thing that occurred to me was replacing the wing window with a roll up kind but don't think theres room in the doors.
Always toss out comments.
They get used, tossed, or are helpful in other ways.
 
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Man... So much hate for the vent windows. Ha! I love the vent windows on the 57. I'd love to add them to my 98 pickup somehow. I still need to dig through some receipts for you...

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
Don't worry about brand.
Seems that no one is posting much on breakage, even thru google searches, which is great.

However, the hate for vent windows will go on...ha.....
 
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I have had a Specialty Power Window kit in my car for over 25 years, and have not had an issue with it. We put the same kit in my buddys car about 20 years ago, and he never had a problem either.

I'm not sure what kind of car you are working on, but I eliminated the vent windows in my 37 Pontiac, and encountered the same issue you are facing. I chose to rework the door itself. I just bent a 90 in some sheetmetal and made a straight line from end to end of the window opening on the outside. I had to pull the inner panel in to make a straight line on the inner. I then made a window template and fit it along with window channel to see where metal either needed to be added or subtracted around the upper perimeter. Garnish moulding was more of the same.

One thing to watch out for : the glass was now curved on both the front and rear of the door glass. Due there being very little straight glass (about 2 or 3 inches) running in the channel, the window rocked VERY badly when going up or down. The solution was to have windows made with about 3-4 inches added to the bottom of the window. That now gave a 6-7 inch straight section running in the channel to guide the window straight up and down.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have had a Specialty Power Window kit in my car for over 25 years, and have not had an issue with it. We put the same kit in my buddys car about 20 years ago, and he never had a problem either.

I'm not sure what kind of car you are working on, but I eliminated the vent windows in my 37 Pontiac, and encountered the same issue you are facing. I chose to rework the door itself. I just bent a 90 in some sheetmetal and made a straight line from end to end of the window opening on the outside. I had to pull the inner panel in to make a straight line on the inner. I then made a window template and fit it along with window channel to see where metal either needed to be added or subtracted around the upper perimeter. Garnish moulding was more of the same.

One thing to watch out for : the glass was now curved on both the front and rear of the door glass. Due there being very little straight glass (about 2 or 3 inches) running in the channel, the window rocked VERY badly when going up or down. The solution was to have windows made with about 3-4 inches added to the bottom of the window. That now gave a 6-7 inch straight section running in the channel to guide the window straight up and down.
Thanks.
Good info.

Sounds like I have the exact same situation.
Our local rod shop carries Specialty brand in stock. I will grab a kit from him then.
 

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Pugsy, I've used SPW and Nu Relics. Both are quality units. I have a 41 Plymouth. For your car, I would check out Nu Relics. They make quality OE style regulators that bolt right up for a lot of old cars.
 

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I need to order a power window kit. Telling me that you used X brand would be great.
However, more importantly, telling me about failures would be of more benefit. Or things like, it rattles, shakes, shimmies, etc.
I have a 41 Chrysler with flat glass.

Brands I've found:

Specialty Power Windows ( I have their universal wiper kit and it seems good)
Ball's

Nu Relics
I bought a kit from them and it fits as it should on my 68 Camaro I could choose where I wanted the switches and what I wanted the switches to look like. No complaints at all from me I am redoing the entire car so as of yet I haven’t finished installing the switches yet but have powered them and raised and lowered them
 

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I need to order a power window kit. Telling me that you used X brand would be great.
However, more importantly, telling me about failures would be of more benefit. Or things like, it rattles, shakes, shimmies, etc.
I have a 41 Chrysler with flat glass.

Brands I've found:

Specialty Power Windows ( I have their universal wiper kit and it seems good)

Ball's

Nu Relics
You cannot go wrong with Specialty Power Windows. Call them, tell them what you've got. You will not be disappointed
 

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For what it's worth, I always frist try to find a late model power window motor that has the sale gear pitch as the vintate window riser. Adapting a modern motor to the factory riser mechanism is better than any after market one. 80s Ford motors mesh perfectly to vintage GM gears. Don't know about other makes. I put them on a '36 Pontiac and a '53 Chevy pickup. Work great.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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5,647 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
For what it's worth, I always frist try to find a late model power window motor that has the sale gear pitch as the vintate window riser. Adapting a modern motor to the factory riser mechanism is better than any after market one. 80s Ford motors mesh perfectly to vintage GM gears. Don't know about other makes. I put them on a '36 Pontiac and a '53 Chevy pickup. Work great.
Thanks.

This was my first thought years ago but 80 year old regulators do not sound appealing to me. The little rollers are all toast as well.
 

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Member - AMC/Rambler "guru"
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Why not do a junkyard crawl and check out factory power window regulators? You will need to get the channel the glass sits in as well, but you can adapt one to your door. Just measure windows and get one tall enough. For a 30s-40s car I'd look at trucks, vans, and SUVs.

Vent windows are great IF they are large enough. The little slivers GM (and others) used in the 70s don't really do much. They aren't intended to be pushed out more than 30-45 degrees to do their job. I hate it when I see one pushed all the way around to be like a "scoop" to bring air in! They are intended to suck air in at the front and let it out in the rear of the vent window. Works well in mid temp weather (say 60s-70s) and car moving with other windows closed and maybe kick panel vents open. In real hot weather all they do is reduce buffetting from air coming in the open driver's window.
 
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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Vents..........for me, the car has to look good. See my El Camino above.
I don't care what they actually do. I drive with windows up always, AC on, except at the drive thru of course, ha...
 

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For what it's worth, I always frist try to find a late model power window motor that has the sale gear pitch as the vintate window riser. Adapting a modern motor to the factory riser mechanism is better than any after market one. 80s Ford motors mesh perfectly to vintage GM gears. Don't know about other makes. I put them on a '36 Pontiac and a '53 Chevy pickup. Work great.
A buddy on mine just showed me this a couple of months ago. I think he used 80s or 90s Ford truck reg motors on his 48 Mercury. Works slick.

Only problem with doing that in this case is that because of the longer glass and revised window shape, the original regulator will be unlikely to work.
 
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