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two cups of tea
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok well I have finally been able to paint without any issues..two reasons first a member here who has been a huge help..2nd ditching the hf purple gun& getting a good entry level gun.The deveilbiss flg4.
Now I painted this thing 6 Times before I got the new gun&eachtime resulted I'm me sanding it back down&shooting again..there was a few flaws such as sanding scratches that showed&where I removed a decal..but all in all with came out great no op no runs etc..ill post pix tomorrow when I get it out in the sun.
 

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Awesome you got it done!
Way to hang in there until you got it.
Real bummer you wasted so much money on materials by trying to save a few dollars on the most wonderful $10 purple spray gun in the world.
Shine says the best thing the HF gun is good for is a shot gun target,LOL. Sorry you had to learn the expensive way.
 

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two cups of tea
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah thanks guys I was lost..well turns out my regulator was shot so I wasn't getting the right air flow..the purple guns are now my primer guns&loan out ones.The devilbiss was awesome got a 1.3 1.4&1.5 tip plus the best regulator I've had yet for 182 shipped&its so easy to set up..it was like it came dialed in for my application.I saw some guys who swore by the purple gun..I've had 2 fall apart in my hand...everybody said get a pro gun&you'll tell the difference!Well I do
I know this is a entry level gun but I don't see a point in spending 700 for something else I'm gonna buy 2 more one for primer one for clear&mine for base.Literally no problems with paint or clear.Only issues I had was snotty prep work. like I said I shot it so many times then took it back down&not fully understanding the steps In block sanding &the correct grits.But I think if I wouldn't have reworked the body so much I would have been ok.And from now on instead of 3 coats of high build primer..I think Ill do 3 block&shoot 3 more block&see where I need to be.
 

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two cups of tea
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Btw..the flaws are only in a few areas can I mask of where they are&sand,primer&blend?if I could do that it would really be nice its a pitenia silver..sorry if I spelled that wrong.And with my cc I kind of just lightly did it..gave a good gloss just seems if I put it on thick like my base it didn't look as nice .
 

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Colorsanding painter
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Anything with heavy metallic especially silver is a bear to blend but it is very possible you could do that and the blend line not be obvious. Maybe create a new thread regarding the blend and I'd say several members here with way more experience than I will give good advice.
 

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Awesome you got it done!
Way to hang in there until you got it.
Real bummer you wasted so much money on materials by trying to save a few dollars on the most wonderful $10 purple spray gun in the world.
Shine says the best thing the HF gun is good for is a shot gun target,LOL. Sorry you had to learn the expensive way.
You can also throw one under a tire to keep a car from rolling back.

The painter I had hired was showing me his new gun he was pretty proud of it and the best part was how little it cost, I didnt want to say anything so I just asked, hows it spray? Great he said ,watch ,and started painting a hood3/4 of the way through ,the fan knob fell off ,landed in the wet paint and rolled all the way down to the other end leaving a wicked mark like a giant bug walked across it....:eek: You shoulda seen the look on his face:drunk: .....Classic.....
 

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I used nason..originally I had it in 4th dimension but after ruining that I had toilets mix up the paint code..for my clear I used finish 1..I was surprised how well it layd.
why were you surprized???? look at all the practice you got...You got six jobs under your belt now...that means your about ready to start painting at a shop..Look at the bright side if you just painted it once and got lucky ,you wouldnt have learned much...the most important thing you learned is persistance..thats important....never give up..now you've got all of our respect...and a finished job...
 

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Btw..the flaws are only in a few areas can I mask of where they are&sand,primer&blend?if I could do that it would really be nice its a pitenia silver..sorry if I spelled that wrong.And with my cc I kind of just lightly did it..gave a good gloss just seems if I put it on thick like my base it didn't look as nice .
You dont need to prime or sand if its fresh paint,just scuff and shoot..
 

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two cups of tea
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks dead..hey so I decided to sand the cab Down as the body wasn't right you could still see scratches.I shot like 6 coats of 2k hb primer..why are they still visible?The rest came out so nice I wanna make this thing perfect.
 

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put up or shut up
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scratches in your clear or under your primer? With all that primer maybe it's still shrinking. Silver metallic will show every scratch. It actually shows the most scratches so in a way you gotta treat it like a black...with black you gotta make sure your work is straight. With silver you gotta make sure any scratch under the silver is a 600 on your primer. you treat them both differently than any other color. If you have that much primer it may be shrinking and showing either your primer marks OR filler marks. Only you can tell cause pics won't show us that. Let us know what you think and we can go from there.
 

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put up or shut up
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how was it feathering? Sometimes an old paint can make an 80 grit scratch appear to be a 40 grit scratch depending on adhesion of that paint. It could also be solvents reacting to the open scratches.At this point, it would be good to get some heat on it to shrink all that primer out. If it was summer it would be perfect to just sit it outside for a while and ensure that both sides get the sun.Then you can revisit it and have another look, but since it's silver it's most likely nothing you can do will help it other than dig back in it. If it wasn't bad and the color wasn't silver you might be able to get away with waiting for that primer to shrink then sand n buff. Probably not gonna work here. I'd hate to say dig in but if that's what you want to do that's what should be done. I'd go back with 80 on a block to primer and this time be mindful of going back over it with 180 to factory paint, and this time your 80 might not be as deep and your 180 scratches will be plenty out of fear, which is good and the right way. Just make sure you let things settle and cure before you sand then reprime and sand with 600, seal, and paint. you probably could get away with just going to the primer but those 80 scratches are still there so why risk it? If you chose to do that just guide coat it when it hits primer and I bet the scratches will sand out, but again, it's a risk if you don't take it that paint where the problem is.
 

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put up or shut up
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yeah, I mentioned sanding it out at the source but most shops would do what you mentioned, including mine. It's sufficient. Just gotta make sure the primer is done shrinking. Bringing it back to at least primer and reguide coating it would at least tell you for sure it's sanded out, but not tell you if it's done shrinking. The trick would be the step ups in grit, but I wouldn't recommend 320 on a silver.
 

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two cups of tea
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Let me explain this as best as I can in hopes you guys will set my but straight..I don't wanna go through this in the future.I the first time I painted the rig just scuffed with 400 then 500 over primer..it came out ok..since then I was using 80 grit&going right through the metal.Shot the high build primer I could see the scratch marks bad!Sanded it back down then primer etc..I just want the body to look as good as the paint I've been on this for 2 months..my paint is laying like glass.I've decided to take a full week&do nothing but prep allday.
So should I strip to bare metal?there's already a lot of spots where I hit metal.The main issues are where I removed the badges.The bed &grill,bumpers etc I left alone.So should I take it all down then go from 150 to 320 to 400&6-8 coats of 2 k high build primer?.Too be noted it was like as I was sanding the painted wasn't fully cleared&would look like hairs in the base...but main it laid like glass!Its nuts.
PLEASE help with how to fix these sanding scratches
 

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put up or shut up
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3,144 Posts
are you saying the edges of the scratch marks of the original paint appeared to lift or look bloated? If so that's solvents reacting.

So are you saying it hasn't been cleared and is just in basecoat?
If so, go straight to 240-320-500. or 400-500-600. you can just 600 lightly and take little material off. Go to primer and guide coat once you hit it.

Please just give us the details.

Is it in base or clear?
 

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two cups of tea
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1,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
how was it feathering? Sometimes an old paint can make an 80 grit scratch appear to be a 40 grit scratch depending on adhesion of that paint. It could also be solvents reacting to the open scratches.At this point, it would be good to get some heat on it to shrink all that primer out. If it was summer it would be perfect to just sit it outside for a while and ensure that both sides get the sun.Then you can revisit it and have another look, but since it's silver it's most likely nothing you can do will help it other than dig back in it. If it wasn't bad and the color wasn't silver you might be able to get away with waiting for that primer to shrink then sand n buff. Probably not gonna work here. I'd hate to say dig in but if that's what you want to do that's what should be done. I'd go back with 80 on a block to primer and this time be mindful of going back over it with 180 to factory paint, and this time your 80 might not be as deep and your 180 scratches will be plenty out of fear, which is good and the right way. Just make sure you let things settle and cure before you sand then reprime and sand with 600, seal, and paint. you probably could get away with just going to the primer but those 80 scratches are still there so why risk it? If you chose to do that just guide coat it when it hits primer and I bet the scratches will sand out, but again, it's a risk if you don't take it that paint
where the problem is.
It feathered good in some spots others..bad.Right now the main problem is the scratches in the metal that the primer won't fill.
 
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