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Just put a washer under the stud to do your checks...

I had changed the studs on my Profilers to 7/16" as soon as I got them, and they're .100" longer than the 3/8" studs.
So put a thick washer under the stud to raise it up .100" or more, and you should be good to go...
I guess it depends on the rockers, but you shouldn't need to get different studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
I didn't know Straub had a redesigned rocker arm. I had a set of the bottom line Comp Cams die cast rocker arms that I would like to use, but I will see where the contact patch ends up. I at least like to see it in the middle 2/3. Not really concerned with it being centered on the valve
I would re-think going to a shorter pushrod rather than a longer rocker stud on your engine. Valve guides are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
So put a thick washer under the stud to raise it up .100" or more, and you should be good to go...
I guess it depends on the rockers, but you shouldn't need to get different studs.
These studs only have a 5/8" stud into the head. With the guide plate, there is only 1/2" in the head. I would like to see more than that with these aluminum heads. The new ones have a 3/4" stud. If there is any protruding into the port, I will grind it off.
 

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I tried to use a dial indicator on the valve and set it at half lift and set the height of the trunnion from that, but my light checking springs pushed the oil out of the lifter.
You know the way he's showing to do it, you're not actually moving the lifter or the valve...
You have the lifters at zero lift, and you're just lifting the rocker until it's parallel with the retainer, as your starting point.
Then you're cranking the polylock down the number of turns to equal 1/2 gross valve lift.
Then you're adjusting the pushrod checker to be snug with the rocker at that "simulated 1/2 lift" setting. So it shouldn't be compressing the lifter.

In fact, even though I put the "checking springs" in, after the fact I realized that you don't even need them to do it the way he shows.
The only reason to have the checking springs in is if, after setting the polylock to "1/2 lift", you want to compress the spring until the rocker is parallel to the retainer again, and measure to ensure that it's opening to exactly 1/2 the gross valve lift.

But notice that in the video he only compresses the spring for demonstration purposes, not for the actual measurement process.

Link to the video, in case anyone is wondering:
 

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These studs only have a 5/8" stud into the head. With the guide plate, there is only 1/2" in the head. I would like to see more than that with these aluminum heads. The new ones have a 3/4" stud. If there is any protruding into the port, I will grind it off.
You could space up a too short stud with a washer or two just for the initial pushrod length procedure, so that you have enough thread to get the polylock started on the stud for the procedure to work.
That would avoid having to buy a longer studs.

The actual need for a longer studs would be if you have either inadequate poly lock thread contact when the valvetrain is set-up for final assembly, or if the rocker arm is running high enough on the stud it is entirely on the htreaded section and you want to get away from that.
 

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In that post, he was talking about the "bottom" of the stud also being shorter than he'd like.
So he'd be getting the longer studs for that reason anyway...
 

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If you use guide plates you need a stud with a .72 to .75 inch base screw length with an aluminum head. A shorter base length of .5 to .6 something in this situation combined with stiff springs and high RPM is a sure fire way of failing the threads in the head. For self guiding rockers on aluminum heads look for a base screw length of .5 to .6 inch.

If you can’t find the specs call them, this is a critical piece of information that for some reason is often not listed.

Bogie
 

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That's odd that his are shorter.
I just went out and measured the 3/8 studs I took off my new Pro-Filers.

They're 1.8" rocker studs like his, but the head side measures about .745, so 3/4"

Edit: Oh, I forgot these are on his new ProMaxx heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
You know the way he's showing to do it, you're not actually moving the lifter or the valve...
You have the lifters at zero lift, and you're just lifting the rocker until it's parallel with the retainer, as your starting point.
Then you're cranking the polylock down the number of turns to equal 1/2 gross valve lift.
Then you're adjusting the pushrod checker to be snug with the rocker at that "simulated 1/2 lift" setting. So it shouldn't be compressing the lifter.

In fact, even though I put the "checking springs" in, after the fact I realized that you don't even need them to do it the way he shows.
The only reason to have the checking springs in is if, after setting the polylock to "1/2 lift", you want to compress the spring until the rocker is parallel to the retainer again, and measure to ensure that it's opening to exactly 1/2 the gross valve lift.

But notice that in the video he only compresses the spring for demonstration purposes, not for the actual measurement process.

Link to the video, in case anyone is wondering:
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. I was trying to come in the back door to arrive at the same place as Foxwell. If i had a solid lifter or could shim my HR tappet to solid my process would get you to the same place. Couldn't shim my lifter because of the tie bar pin. I put the checking springs in to check piston to valve clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Yeah, with the 1.8 studs, I cannot start the poly lock. With only .470 lift on the intake, half lift is .235. That is a little less than 4.5 turns down on the stud. I don't know how much lower the stud would have to be to start the poly also. Not nearly enough thread engagement. The 1.8 studs I have came on my Profilers from Chad Speier. I had to change them out on my Profilers for the same reason, so I had them laying around and wanted to try to use them. But no go. They are too short on both ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Another question. My roller lifters for this build are the morel 5372 tie bar lifters. As mentioned earlier, my checking springs are overcoming the springs in the lifters. I can't shim these lifters and I have a stock GM hydraulic roller lifter that I have shimmed solid. Could I use this in place of the new morel for testing purposes? What are the odds that they are the same dimensions? I tried to measure the two, but I don't have anything that will measure the morel. The stock lifter is 2.3994 measured with a regular mike in the ball end to the wheel. Should these two lifters be the same length dimension, ball socket to bottom of wheel?
 

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Can you put a 5/16" ball in the Morel pushrod cup in order to measure off of??
Or maybe the short end of the adjustable pushrod, so you can get a set of 6" calipers on it all??
Or cut 1" off one end of an old stock pushrod to make an measuring extension??

How about the old school of submerging the Morel lifter in oil and pumping it up so it will withstand the checker spring??

I have no isdea of the height from wheel to cup will be the same between the Morel and stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Thanks eric. Don't know why I didn't think of that.
These lifters came full of oil and are hard, but the checking spring pressure eventually forces the oil out. The instructions for the lifters tell you to soak them in oil before installation. Thise checking springs come from Comp Cams. They are really stronger than they need to be. I may source some lighter springs. Something less than the lifter springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Nope. Those two lifters will not interchange. It is tough to get a good measurement, but the 5372 morel appears to be .100+ longer, wheel to ball socket. I'm wondering if priming the oil system would get the lifters hard enough to at least be able to check piston to valve clearance. After rolling the assembly over enough times, all lifters have gone soft. With the fairly low lift on the cam I am not really worried about it too much, but it would be nice to check for sure. I don't remember having any trouble with the lifters leaking down on the 383 with the 4602 morels while checking cam events and PTV clearance.
The engine is pretty much all together. Heads and valve train are all installed and adjusted. Today will be putting on the intake and all the peripheral stuff. May be able to stuff it in there this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Something I forgot to mention is the ProMaxx heads needed no grinding for pushrod clearance at the intake ports. I have had to grind on Dart, Procomp, and Profiler for PR clearance. Somebody at ProMaxx did their homework in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Okay., Here's another question. I bought a new aluminum water pump and went to put it on this afternoon and noticed the pulley misses alignment by 1/4" or so. The pulley flange is not pressed on far enough. Can I put this in a press and push it on farther? There is plenty of room for it to line up. I have had them be off slightly, and I shimmed to align. Never this far off though.
 

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Yep, and this is becoming more common since most production moved offshore. I've seen two complaints on other boards in the last month, and remember others from earlier than that.

You need to remove the back cover, so you can support the shaft from the rear(or set it nose down on the flange and push the shaft from the rear).
You don't want any part of the pump body touching the press, you don't want to be pushing against the body and bearing....just the hub and the shaft.

One other thing of note, however...a long water pump pulley will fit on a short pump, but be 1/4" too far forward....a lot of guys assume since the pumps are 1-3/8" different, the pulleys are really different too....they are not....most of the difference was made up in the deep dish crankshaft pulley used on long pump engines.
Make sire the pulley is correct for the pump style used.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Thanks ericnova72! I am using the same pulleys as before, so yes they are correct. It is the pump pulley flange. Thanks again. You have been a big help. The engine is all together. I painted the block after it was together so I had to wait to put it in. It is still on the stand and I have to put the rear freeze plugs in and the oil galley plugs in after I get it off the stand. Then it can go in the car. I'm planning on starting tomorrow morning. It always takes longer to put them in than it does to take them out. So maybe a couple days until start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
The instruction/spec sheet that came with the KB9901HC Claimer pistons has a note in it:

NOTE: Hypereutectic piston engines will require 2-4 degrees less total ignition timing.

I have most always run 34 degrees total timing. This is my first experience with hyperuetectic pistons. I don't think that 34 degrees is going to kill it, but I'm not sure. Should I start at 30 or 32? Dang sure don't want it to detonate. Engine is in the car. Just needs everything else put together. :)
Which brings up another question. I ended up with 9.92 CR. I will start this thing off with 93 octane, but was wondering if I could possibly run 89 with this combo? I really don't mind running 93, but 89 would be nice.
 

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That note for the Claimer pistons is more aimed at guys running circle track, with its constant rpm and increased thermal loads as a warning to guys more familair with forged piston use.

Not so much of a concern in street engines.
 
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