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I've ajusted a lot of valves on small chevies but have never tried this . I've seen this demonstrated on certain sites . I wonder how many of you motor heads have done it this way ? You can start anywhere the motor is setting . Have all rockers loose . Test all 16 push rods and adjust the play out of all loose ones , rotate 90 degrees and repeat , do this 90 degrees at a time until you have rotated the crank twice . Then tighten down all 1/2 to one turn and you are done . This guy swears this works on all SBC's. What's your thoughts ? I've been told racers do this all the time .
Bob
 

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It'll work of course but only on a hydraulic cam and if you make one mistake, there's a good chance you'll find it real quick. I use a old distributor cap that I cut out the center out of and then marked the plug wire towers with the firing order of the engine. I usually turn over the engine by hand but I can do one side of the engine by simply turning it until the rotor is pointing at the desired cylinder, set both valves and go to the next cylinder. I don't have to worry about finding the timing marker or having the damper marked off in 90*. If I start on #1, I finish it then turn the engine until the rotor is at #3, set those valves and then so on.
 

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I've ajusted a lot of valves on small chevies but have never tried this . I've seen this demonstrated on certain sites . I wonder how many of you motor heads have done it this way ? You can start anywhere the motor is setting . Have all rockers loose . Test all 16 push rods and adjust the play out of all loose ones , rotate 90 degrees and repeat , do this 90 degrees at a time until you have rotated the crank twice . Then tighten down all 1/2 to one turn and you are done . This guy swears this works on all SBC's. What's your thoughts ? I've been told racers do this all the time .
Bob
Don‘t like this at all.

I start with number one firing and adjust, then go through the firing order which will have the next firing cylinder every 90 degrees and adjust as you go. There is no point to loosening everything first then starting into the every 90 degrees to fix what you did.

Consider that hydraulics will possibly bleed down especially if your running anti-pump up versions which can be in several designs that bleed fast or have very short travel or both.

I always follow up with the engine running just in case there is a weak one that bleeds too fast against the spring load. Just a CYA with me. Yeah it’s messy that’s what they make shop rags and paper towels for.

Bogie
 
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