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Discussion Starter #1
Haven't had the chance to contact ARP or AFR to hear their take on the issue as they're not open weekends, so I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? I got AFR 1050 heads (1.55" OD springs) and ARP 234-4301 sbc Head Stud Kit (which is the recommended kit by AFR). I get all the studs threading properly, mount the heads, start laying down the washers, and the center washer can't lay flat in the seat due to the valve springs overlapping into the seat.

Help??

210cc SBC Race Cylinder Head - Air Flow Research

The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
 

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A very common problem. Usually the washer will need some "custom" fitting with a bench grinder. Not the bolt/washer manufacturers problem. :thumbup:
 

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Get some 12-point shoulder nuts from ARP. Grind the washer as BC pointed out. SOmetimes, I still have to remove one or both springs to get things torqued down.
 

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AFR assumes you will:
Have tear-downs in the pits between rounds.
Have over 13:1 compression ratio.

If not:
Toss the ARP studs and use 12 point ARP bolts with intergral washers.
 

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If not:
Toss the ARP studs and use 12 point ARP bolts with intergral washers.
Except if the engine was honed with torque plates with the studs installed.

I've built many engines with studs and clearancing washers around the valve springs is very common.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
AFR assumes you will:
Have tear-downs in the pits between rounds.
Have over 13:1 compression ratio.

If not:
Toss the ARP studs and use 12 point ARP bolts with intergral washers.
13.6 effective compression :mwink:
i guess I'm grinding some washers then.

thank you all
 

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The main advantage of using studs is that they do not need to be re-torqued. No re-torquing is essential if you have a engine tear-down in the pits between rounds.

If you have an engine with over 13:1 compression ratio, I hope we are referring to a race car and not a car with power brakes, power steering and A.C.
 

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I have had to grin/relieve the washers also with the larger springs....then have to mark them to go back to the same spot (engraver works). I've always retorqed the heads after initial run in, whether bolts or studs....piece of mind kinda thing for me
 
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