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The rocker trunion shaft needs to be positioned on the stud with its flat side facing up, is this how you are installing them?

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Yes had bottoming out issue, and I just checked, if I go down the next stud length on ARP - I have 7 threads on the polylock vs full engagement, however the lock nut is about 2-3 threads out - I will probably trim the studs off as well, I managed to gain 2-3 threads by threading the stud a little bit.. looks ugly but worked.

Obviously all along the locknut was turned out - so now it sticks out 2-3 threads, is this going to be an issue?

Gah its ENDLESS!! I have more $ into stupid bolts and studs than the cam haha

Fastarocka, if that is the issue, the counterbored nuts are the answer. i've run into that issue before.
Be aware there are a couple different OD's for the nuts, they have to clear the rocker slot so make sure you know what diameter your rockers need before ordering.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
yes - i did note it had the flat surface for the polylock to engage on- thanks for checking - that would be a disastrous mishap tho- i usually can at least figure out what looks right or wrong haha..



:)

The rocker trunion shaft needs to be positioned on the stud with its flat side facing up, is this how you are installing them?

Bogie
 

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I've never done it before but I bet a hardened AN machine bushing under the nut would work out.
You cut more threads so it sounds like you got that solved though. I doubt it's a problem, or going to be a problem, avoid sharp edges on the new cut threads to help prevent the studs from fracturing. The studs are under the most stress at the shoulder radious just below the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
looks like im halfway to frankenstein studs! All the way if I have to nip the ends off
 

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Yeah, that' a mess of re-engineering to make it work. It seems like there should be a better way. Probably is
I'm having a hard time visualizing why this thing is fighting you so much.
Sometimes ya gotta mod stuff to get it right where you want it but this seems pretty excessive. Am I wrong? Set screw are fine with at least 4 full turns threaded in.
 

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I'm having a hard time visualizing why this thing is fighting you so much.
Sometimes ya gotta mod stuff to get it right where you want it but this seems pretty excessive. Am I wrong?
 

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Set screw only needs 4 threads to be good, as long as you set them right.

The stud rethreading you did may come back to bite you...the ARP studs are rolled threads to reduce stress risers, and rolled in after heat treat. When you went and cut them further with a thread cutting die the actual thread shape is not the same exact profile, it is sharp bottomed "V" and thats a stress point, right near where the stud is going to be worked hard holding the rocker.

A simple counterbore polylock would have fixed the whole deal.
 

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Set screw only needs 4 threads to be good, as long as you set them right.

The stud rethreading you did may come back to bite you...the ARP studs are rolled threads to reduce stress risers, and rolled in after heat treat. When you went and cut them further with a thread cutting die the actual thread shape is not the same exact profile, it is sharp bottomed "V" and thats a stress point, right near where the stud is going to be worked hard holding the rocker.

A simple counterbore polylock would have fixed the whole deal.
Good info. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Agree - i could have lengthened the pushrods ever so slightly and might have come away with it - but the roller tip was a little close to the edge so I just backed it off a little, and that put me right on the edge of the 2 stud options..

Eric yeah I realize it was a hack but im getting real fed up haha - like a bunch of neighbors kids who wont stop screaming by the pool!

Oh well - worst case I can see how it goes, at least the studs are 7/16, i didnt even run the die thru - just half way thru the tapered section - yeah its not pretty but i got at least an extra turn after lash adjustment..

As mentioned I would have gone with AN washers if they even make those for this application- in all honesty these arp studs are so ridiculous strong i dont see an issue for a street machine..

I'm having a hard time visualizing why this thing is fighting you so much.
Sometimes ya gotta mod stuff to get it right where you want it but this seems pretty excessive. Am I wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
All good on the locks then - man im gonna button this sucker up.. yes lock threads go in 5 at least-

I could roll the die over the studs and nip off about 2mm and run it off the cut off end- ill see how I feel about doing that, I have a super thin blade cut off I can use and round it nice -

Honestly just a darn washer under the polylock would have solved all of this! Ill poke around and see what there is- maybe call comp..

Wondering if a grade 8 washer would work iunder the polylock - mine were 0.600 OD..
 

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What's the plan on the keepers that are not seated correctly? If you run it this way, it won't run for long. Are these the correct valves? Are they too long and also too big in diameter at the keeper? There is something inherently wrong with something. It just isn't this difficult.

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In the very first post there is a picture of a square showing the centerline trunnion to roller tip. It is showing a piece of wood taped to the head which you are squaring off of. Is that piece of wood parallel with the valve stem? I always use an allen wrench laid on top of the retainer. IIRC I use a 5/16" allen. Makes for no guessing of you reference line.
My last two builds, I had to buy longer ARP studs to get enough poly lock engagement. The Profiler heads came with 1.8 studs. The 1.8 studs wouldn't work with the Promaxx heads either. I ended up using ARP 334-7204. They are 2.00 installed height. Worked perfectly.
I am surprised you were able to get any more threads onto the stud. They are harder than he//. I would be very afraid of having caused stress and fracture points.
 

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Head bolt washers is what I use.
Manley/Mr Gaskt ones are about 0.100"
Pioneer are about 0.060"
Got a source for 7/16" head bolt washers with a small enough OD to fit in the rocker slot and in the spot face recess in the trunnion??
All the 7/16" head bolt washers I know of are either .688" OD or up to .750"....every roller rocker I've ever measured has either a .550" or .600" OD on the poly lock, and the rocker slot and seat in the trunnion are barely .020" bigger than that....the normal head bolt washer won't fit in there, too large a diameter.

The head bolt washer works fine for stock ball pivot rockers, a lot more clearance space there.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
This is what I concluded I needed after hacking mine - at near 200 its just a pinch too much right now - maybe down the road, but a 7/16 shouldnt take too much of a beating - i just removed a tiny bit of the thread tapered -

Next time I will measure EXACTLY and get it right first time :)

I ended up using ARP 334-7204. They are 2.00 installed height. Worked perfectly.



Yes - after looking down there I see how the polylock is machined to hold the polylock in place, so a washer down there would negate this (not sure how much of a difference it would make..

I needed the ARP bolts listed above but I managed to just get by with these- big learning curve-

The head bolt washer works fine for stock ball pivot rockers, a lot more clearance space there.
 

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Got a source for 7/16" head bolt washers with a small enough OD to fit in the rocker slot and in the spot face recess in the trunnion??
All the 7/16" head bolt washers I know of are either .688" OD or up to .750"....every roller rocker I've ever measured has either a .550" or .600" OD on the poly lock, and the rocker slot and seat in the trunnion are barely .020" bigger than that....the normal head bolt washer won't fit in there, too large a diameter.

The head bolt washer works fine for stock ball pivot rockers, a lot more clearance space there.
head bolt washers used to raise stud up allowing more threads in the set screw.
 

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head bolt washers used to raise stud up allowing more threads in the set screw.
Yes, that can work but can be a problem if you are working with aluminum heads....you may run out of enough thread engagement on the bottom of the stud, into the head.
Most common studs have .700" or similar length on the end fitting into the head...start stacking too much under that end and you go below minimum suggested number of threads engaged into the soft aluminum head.

A .700" stud minus a .125" guideplate and a .100" head bolt washer leaves ..475" to thread into the head....starting to get a but sketchy if you refer to suggested engineering practice is 1.5 times fastener diameter for engagement into soft metals.
A lot of times you can't get exactly what you'd like for lengths on both ends of the stud....it can get frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
finally received my Manley 3/8 pushrods today, installed with the beehives and got a 0.050 pattern on the exhaust and about 40 thou on the intake -

Are these beehives ok looking like this at max lift?

They are progressive - bottom coils ok or too compressed? (this is the exhaust at 576 total lift - springs rated at 0.600) - just wanted to be sure. Install height is 1.805" - spec is 1.8".

Was an idiot and ordered 16 instead of 32 keepers so a matching set on their way from alexs parts- hopefully get this thing buttoned up and running! Time to pony up and attempt the 2004R rebuild (first time!)

614200
 
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