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I am trying to see if my engine and VIN match so I can decide on which direction to restore. Any help would be appreciated
 

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Save a horse, Ride a Cowboy.
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:welcome: welcome to the site :welcome:

Casting numbers for the engine block will be behind the starter. Others on the intake manifold runner, other parts, and tags bearing date codes.

Some have specific vin stamped on the engines. Some SBF are on the machined surface at the top of the block at the rear of the intake manifold.
 

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Thanks for ur reply, I have already found the numbers. But what I am trying to find out is how do I find out if they all match or not. If you could help on that it would be very appreciated. Thanks
 

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first the good news....look in the knowledge base link, there are good decode info/articles for Mustangs

now the bad news...for roughly $20 you can buy a new stamped door data plate and have what ever options you want to put on the plate....4 speed, pony interior, exterior color, etc....

new inner fender apron to stamp new id #'s...$25 + about 8 hours of cutting and welding to make it a hipo "K" code or even just a 4V "A" code with new stamped numbers to match the new door plate and add alot of value to the car....

as a starting point, there are VIN numbers stamped in the passenger side fender apron under the fender edge.....check those

post what you have found.....

very rare to find a true original parts car...especially the motor and tranny
 

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Red65

Thanks for the info. I will post everything I have in the next day or so. I will definitely be talking to you again about all of this. If you have anymore please let me know.
 

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The stamped in numbers will look like this........ 8A123456 (six digits)

The first number is the year of the decade/ year of the car,
the letter is the car line body code, and
the last six digits are the same as the sequential VIN.

If the last six don't match your fender/door/title VIN then the rest is moot.
 

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I didn't seem to see anywhere that someone said that there were no "matching numbers" on the engine that correlate to the serial #. Ford didn't start doing that until later, and initially only sporadicly. All you really need to do is verify the engine code stamped in the VIN is the engine in the car. THEN, you will need to verify date codes to make sure that the parts on the engine weren't produced after the car was made. Ford used common casting numbers for many years and the only accurate way to determine when they were made is the date code(these are cast as well).They are 3-4 digit #'s on each part that are a number( last number of the year it was produced), a letter for the month and a single or double digit# for the day of the month. example;5A12 would be January 12,1965. As long as the parts on the engine were made prior to the date your car was made, that is as close as you will get to matching #'s. There is also a stamped # on the engine that tells when it was assembled, but if all the parts are cast prior to production of the car the assembly date of the engine would most likely be as well.
 

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FORD actually started stamping SOME cars back as far as 63. You will find SOME 65s with stamped numbers.

I read that ALL 289 HIPOs got numbered by engine sequence and VIN at the right front of the block.

Some small blocks got assembly stamped numbers on the left water pump boss at the head deck surface.

Other than that, casting numbers are the way, as explained.
 
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