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Aspiring eccentric
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know where I should be able to find the VIN plate on my '34 Ford 5 window? I was told there's a serial number on the chassis. This can't be the only number, can it?

Thanks,
Lee
 

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Aspiring eccentric
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There in lies some good news and some bad. The car I bought, has a chassis under it that is from a different car then the body. I have access to the original chassis, which is a total basket case. Anyone got and serious suggestions for me as to how to handle this? I really do want to do things right, but the original chassis is in REALLY bad shape.

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34's had the VIN number on the top frame rail drivers side right in front of the firewall. There was also another number on the top frame rail over the rear tire drivers side. Take the number from the junk chassis and apply for a title for the car with that VIN number. When the title arrives stamp the chassis under your car with the number from the junk chassis. It's done all the time.

Vince
 

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Aspiring eccentric
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry guys, I failed to mention that I have the title for the number that is on the junk chassis. Someone last night suggested I cut the portions of the the junk chassis out and graft them into the chassis I'm keeping. That seems kinda risky, both legally and structurally.

This all makes me wonder what were to happen if I went out and bought an all new rolling chassis for some place like TCI. How would that work. Being in Ohio, I should call Progressive Auto in Baltimore. They've been making and selling new chassis for 20+ years.

I'll let you know what Bob at P.A. says.

Thanks to all,
Lee
 

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If all you have is a title for the junk chassis, transfer that nmber to your good frame and go with it. All you need to do is get a set of number dies from Harbor Freight and stamp it yourself. That is the simplest way to handle it, and it is done all the time in rodding. No one will be the wiser and who is going to tell you that that is not the frame that came with the 34?

Vince
 

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:D


Also.........

I always stamp the # in places that are not easily seen
Places that only I know.....because if the car was stolen..the easy numbers might be removed but MY numbers would still be on the car......
:D :D

I had a 69 Z28 RS that I owned years ago that I put my name and business card in a hidden place. A few weeks ago I got a call.........from the guy who owns it now. He found the card while restoring it.........

Kinda cool....

:thumbup:
 

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Aspiring eccentric
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is what makes this site so GREAT! Thanks to all, especially you who responded.

Just out of curiosity's sake, I'm gonna call Bob at Progressive tomorrow.
 
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In VA, if you go to title a vehicle that has no VIN, they give you one, that then has to be permanantly attached or stamped on the vehicle. It then has to be verified by a law enforcement officer. If that frame has no number on it, and you have a title with the number, I see no reason why there should be any problem at all stamping it on there. You are not changing/alterint the vin, you are attaching it to the vehicle.
 

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If VA is like Texas and you let them assign a frame number to the title, it is going to be titled as a 2004, and as such could be subject to emission requirements. Best bet is to use the 34 frame number and apply for a 34 title. That way you do not need inspection sticker, or an emissions certificate. And you can put an original 34 license plate on it if you find one.:thumbup:

Vince
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Deuce said:
:D


Also.........

I always stamp the # in places that are not easily seen
Places that only I know.....because if the car was stolen..the easy numbers might be removed but MY numbers would still be on the car......
:D :D

I had a 69 Z28 RS that I owned years ago that I put my name and business card in a hidden place. A few weeks ago I got a call.........from the guy who owns it now. He found the card while restoring it.........

Kinda cool....

:thumbup:
It was cool until you heard that 69 Z28 you sold twenty years ago for $8500.00 is now worth $30,000 in the same condidtion. :(

My buddy sold his 69 Z about a year ago as a basket case in need of a total restoration for $22,000!!!
 

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MARTINSR said:
It was cool until you heard that 69 Z28 you sold twenty years ago for $8500.00 is now worth $30,000 in the same condidtion. :(

My buddy sold his 69 Z about a year ago as a basket case in need of a total restoration for $22,000!!!
Craaazzzy ain't it:confused:

Vince
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
According to Bob at Progressive Automotive in Baltimore, I should retain my original chassis while using the current chassis. This way I have the actual numbers in my possession. At a time in which I want to put a new chassis (Of course one from Progressive Automotive) I would then either stamp the number that is on my title or rivet the sections of the old chssis with the good numbers onto the new chassis. He said this is how he's seen people do it for years and never heard of anyone getting burned. Since I have a clear title, there is no inspection to be done, so this reduces much if not all of the risks.

I will be calling the Ohio State Patrol's Title and Inspection office to inquire with not so specicfic questions so as not to incriminate myself. I will post a follow-up.

This clears up things for me and hope it does for others. Keep in mind the all this is written with Ohio laws and the OSP in mind. I cannot begin to try to tell anyone about any other state. Do your homework like I did and you should get things straight. Just be sure to do what I did and let the rest of us know how things work where you live. Who knows who you might help?

Lee

Incidentally, I had a policy written by my State Farm agent on this '34 Ford. For comprehensive coverage only, (i.e. theft vandalism, flood, fire and acts of God) I gotta pay a mere $19.10 ANNUALLY! This is for an agreed value of $15,000. They know the car is in pieces and said that when the car is on the road, that policy will need to be re-written and the premiums will go up to $67 annually for full coverage with an agreed value of $20,000. This is with no mileage limit. I just can't use it as my everyday driver like a normal car. I can live with that ;-)

Just an FYI for all.

Lee
 

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Lee Hulick said:


Lee

Incidentally, I had a policy written by my State Farm agent on this '34 Ford. For comprehensive coverage only, (i.e. theft vandalism, flood, fire and acts of God) I gotta pay a mere $19.10 ANNUALLY! This is for an agreed value of $15,000. They know the car is in pieces and said that when the car is on the road, that policy will need to be re-written and the premiums will go up to $67 annually for full coverage with an agreed value of $20,000. This is with no mileage limit. I just can't use it as my everyday driver like a normal car. I can live with that ;-)

Just an FYI for all.

Lee
I had no such luck with State Farm and the construction of my 34. I wanted some coverage while it was under construction. Found out that my home owners coverage while in the garage under construction would not cover it because it was a car. In the same conversation I said OK give me some coverage as a car. Can't do that because it is not a car yet....catch 22. Finally arranged coverage from Hagerty.

Vince
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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So Vince, did you ask them if this bunch of parts that is not a car yet was covered? The way I see it, you have a bunch of parts and it should be covered just as if you were not building a car but only had a bunch of parts in storage.

I think the court would be on your side.
 

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My question to them was "is my lawn mower which is in the garage covered if the garage burns down?" The answer was yes. I then said the collection of parts which will be a car when it's finished is no different than my lawn mower, so it should be covered. No, because it's a car.....yadyadyadyada.

This was with the local agent, I didn't bother to call the home office and get an official ruling.

Vince
 

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MARTINSR said:
It was cool until you heard that 69 Z28 you sold twenty years ago for $8500.00 is now worth $30,000 in the same condidtion. :(


I sold mine in 1979 for $3500..........and everyone said I was crazy........I would NEVER get that for it. But, by the same token......I used that $3500 as a down payment on a house that I still have......and the price on it has jumped almost in the same proportions SO.........:D

The best part is...........I still have the same WIFE who wanted that house.........

:thumbup:
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Ok, we are going to leave this topic in a hurry. :) How about this for investment. My father bought is house in 1988 for $200,000. NOTHING has changed, no remodeling, nothing. We have it on the market right now, we have multiple offers over $560,000! Three years ago my brother bought his auto repair shop for $325,000 it is "worth" about $800,000!!! His home he bought in 86 for $150,000 is "worth" about $850,000! My home I bought four years ago for $154,000 is "worth" about $475,000 you want to talk about investment, holy crap the property has just gone nuts around here.
 
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